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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 7 1<br />

mop. The suds hav<strong>in</strong>g been washed off, we were nicely enfolded<br />

with clean l<strong>in</strong>en, <strong>and</strong> conducted to <strong>the</strong> outer apartment, where we<br />

had undressed ourselves. Previously to our quitt<strong>in</strong>g<br />

room,<br />

<strong>the</strong> heated<br />

I exam<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>rmometer, which stood at 104. The<br />

heat of <strong>the</strong> water employed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> ablutions was 114 degrees, <strong>and</strong><br />

my pulse rose to 128, be<strong>in</strong>g at <strong>the</strong> same time full <strong>and</strong> firm. We<br />

now lay down on <strong>the</strong> raised platforms I have before described, <strong>and</strong><br />

on which clean l<strong>in</strong>en was spread for us. We were next presented<br />

with coffee <strong>and</strong> pipes of tobacco ; <strong>and</strong>, f<strong>in</strong>ally,<br />

our bodies were<br />

kneaded <strong>and</strong> pressed, with a view to <strong>the</strong> absorption of <strong>the</strong> perspirable<br />

matter, which cont<strong>in</strong>ued to flow from us very copiously for a<br />

considerable time after we had quitted <strong>the</strong> bath. It was no longer<br />

sensible at -<strong>the</strong> expiration of two hours, when we began to "dress :<br />

I experienced, however, at that time so great a degree of thirst,<br />

that 1 was obliged to have recourse to a draught of water. My<br />

pulse, which was still firm <strong>and</strong> full, subsided to 80; <strong>and</strong> my headach<br />

returned, with a throbb<strong>in</strong>g pa<strong>in</strong> of <strong>the</strong> temples. In return<strong>in</strong>g<br />

home, we took <strong>the</strong> precaution to be well covered. We paid two<br />

<strong>and</strong> a half each at <strong>the</strong> bath.<br />

piastres<br />

In Constant<strong>in</strong>ople <strong>the</strong> number of public baths is<br />

very<br />

considera-<br />

ble. Several of <strong>the</strong>m, for <strong>the</strong> accommodation of <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>digent, have<br />

been successively founded by <strong>the</strong> munificence of <strong>the</strong> Sultans. The<br />

private baths are equally numerous, <strong>the</strong>re be<strong>in</strong>g scarcely a house of<br />

auy respectability unprovided with one of <strong>the</strong>m, <strong>in</strong> which every<br />

convenience is to be found. This will not appear extraord<strong>in</strong>ary<br />

when it is considered that <strong>the</strong> practice of bath<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>in</strong>dependently of<br />

its be<strong>in</strong>g a luxury so well adapted to <strong>the</strong> climate of <strong>Turkey</strong>, is,<br />

among <strong>the</strong> Mahometan <strong>in</strong>stitutions, <strong>the</strong> one to which, from motives<br />

of cleanl<strong>in</strong>ess, <strong>the</strong> most strict observance is paid.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> 15th I went on board <strong>the</strong> Young James, <strong>the</strong> English<br />

merchantman lately arrived, to visit a seaman who was dangerously<br />

ill. On <strong>the</strong> 17th I went from Galata to Constant<strong>in</strong>ople, where I<br />

saw <strong>the</strong> Gr<strong>and</strong> Seignor <strong>and</strong> ret<strong>in</strong>ue go <strong>in</strong> procession to <strong>the</strong> mosque.<br />

Preparations were mak<strong>in</strong>g by <strong>the</strong> General <strong>and</strong> several of <strong>the</strong> officers<br />

to proceed to <strong>Syria</strong> by l<strong>and</strong> ; <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>terim <strong>the</strong> transport was<br />

ordered to be got ready for <strong>the</strong> conveyance of <strong>the</strong> rema<strong>in</strong>der of <strong>the</strong><br />

officers <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> detachment, by sea. It was evident that <strong>the</strong> overl<strong>and</strong><br />

party would have to encounter a<br />

very harass<strong>in</strong>g journey, <strong>and</strong><br />

many difficulties. Instead of <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ns which elsewhere furnish<br />

solace <strong>and</strong> refreshment to <strong>the</strong> wearied traveller, hans or kanris are<br />

to be found <strong>in</strong> every town, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> greater part of <strong>the</strong> villages;

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