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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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3JO TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY,<br />

of recommendation, 5cc. to <strong>the</strong> Russian <strong>and</strong> Imperial consuls at<br />

Yassi.<br />

I embarked on board <strong>the</strong> above vessel on <strong>the</strong> 4th at five <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

morn<strong>in</strong>g. The capta<strong>in</strong> spoke a little Italian, though he was by<br />

birth a Greek, Mv fellow travellers consisted of an Italian, bro<strong>the</strong>r<br />

to <strong>the</strong> Imperial consul at Galatz, who spoke <strong>the</strong> German<br />

language with much fluency, two Germans, <strong>and</strong> a Greek. Soon<br />

after we embarked <strong>the</strong> sky became overcharged with heavy clouds,<br />

which <strong>in</strong>dicated <strong>the</strong> approach of a storm, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>duced our capta<strong>in</strong><br />

to wait for more settled <strong>and</strong> favourable wea<strong>the</strong>r. It cleared up at<br />

three <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> afternoon, when <strong>the</strong> anchor was weighed, <strong>and</strong> we<br />

got under way with a smart breeze from <strong>the</strong> north, our crew<br />

tir<strong>in</strong>g a salute of musketry, between each discharge of which <strong>the</strong><br />

Italian sounded his trumpet. The w<strong>in</strong>d freshened soon after<br />

tu such a degree, that we were obliged to anchor a little below<br />

ihe town.<br />

We were deta<strong>in</strong>ed on <strong>the</strong> 5th by <strong>the</strong> stormy wea<strong>the</strong>r until two<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> afternoon, when we took our departure, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> less than<br />

half an hour passed <strong>the</strong> town of Georgival. The current sett<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>in</strong> our favour, we made a<br />

pretty rapid progress by <strong>the</strong> aid of our<br />

twelve oars, <strong>and</strong> at half past seven <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g came to anchor<br />

for <strong>the</strong> night. On <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g morn<strong>in</strong>g we set out before break<br />

of day ; <strong>and</strong> at three <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> afternoon passed Torkotai, a small<br />

town very romantically situated on <strong>the</strong> banks of <strong>the</strong> Danube. The<br />

hills adjacent to this town are laid out <strong>in</strong> f<strong>in</strong>e v<strong>in</strong>eyards, <strong>in</strong>tersper-<br />

sed with bushy trees : on <strong>the</strong> north-east side <strong>the</strong>re are hang<strong>in</strong>g<br />

woods which are cont<strong>in</strong>ued for several miles, <strong>and</strong> have a<br />

very pleas<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>and</strong> picturesque effect. Opposite to <strong>the</strong> town <strong>the</strong>re are seven<br />

water mills, each of <strong>the</strong>m dependant on two boats moored <strong>across</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> river, <strong>in</strong> one of which <strong>the</strong> mill is placed, while <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r supports<br />

<strong>the</strong> wheel stationed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> centre, between <strong>the</strong> two. On <strong>the</strong><br />

present occasion I had seen mills of this k<strong>in</strong>d for <strong>the</strong> first time ;<br />

but I was told that <strong>the</strong>y are employed on every part of <strong>the</strong> Da-<br />

nube. When we had proceeded three or four miles from <strong>the</strong> town,<br />

our vessel ran aground on one of <strong>the</strong> small isl<strong>and</strong>s which are scat-<br />

tered <strong>in</strong> great numbers on <strong>the</strong> sides of <strong>the</strong> river; <strong>and</strong> by this acci-<br />

dent we were deta<strong>in</strong>ed for upwards of an hour. Immediately op-<br />

posite to our position, on <strong>the</strong> eastern side of <strong>the</strong> river, we perceived<br />

a neighbour<strong>in</strong>g village <strong>in</strong> ilames, <strong>and</strong> concluded it to have<br />

been set on fire bv one of <strong>the</strong> b<strong>and</strong>s of robbers<br />

by whom <strong>the</strong> country<br />

was <strong>in</strong>fested. At half past seven <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g we anchored

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