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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 9*<br />

o'clock, when we took our leave, <strong>and</strong> proceeded to <strong>the</strong> beach near<br />

Abydos, whence we went on board <strong>the</strong> transport.<br />

Dur<strong>in</strong>g our stay, Mrs. Koehler was <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Harem We learned<br />

from her that Adam Oglou's wife was very richly dressed, <strong>and</strong> car-<br />

ried about her a profusion of diamonds. Mrs. Koehler was attend-<br />

ed by <strong>the</strong> wives <strong>and</strong> female relatives of <strong>the</strong> consul.<br />

Dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> night it blew a strong gale from <strong>the</strong> southward, with<br />

thunder, lightn<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> heavy showers of ra<strong>in</strong>. At eight o'clock<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g of <strong>the</strong> 20th, we got under way, <strong>and</strong> sailed from <strong>the</strong><br />

Dardanelles, salut<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> forts as we passed, <strong>and</strong> receiv<strong>in</strong>g from<br />

<strong>the</strong>m <strong>in</strong> return a like number of guns. A fresh breeze spr<strong>in</strong>g<strong>in</strong>g up<br />

from <strong>the</strong> north-west, we passed <strong>the</strong> lowest fort, Koum Kali, be-<br />

tween n<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> ten o'clock, <strong>and</strong> by half past eleven were opposite<br />

<strong>the</strong> castle situated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> isl<strong>and</strong> of Tenedos. At half past six <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

even<strong>in</strong>g we passed <strong>the</strong> isl<strong>and</strong> of Mitijlene, amidst a smart squall of<br />

w<strong>in</strong>d <strong>and</strong> ra<strong>in</strong>: at that time <strong>the</strong> isl<strong>and</strong>s of Scio <strong>and</strong> Nicaria were<br />

<strong>in</strong><br />

sight. The effect of <strong>the</strong> sett<strong>in</strong>g sun was extremely f<strong>in</strong>e, <strong>the</strong><br />

rays, which were of a beautiful rose colour, resembl<strong>in</strong>g<br />

those we<br />

had on a former occasion noticed off Sicily.<br />

Dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> night we passed <strong>the</strong> isl<strong>and</strong> of Ipsera : <strong>and</strong> by seven<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g of <strong>the</strong> 21st were off <strong>the</strong> isl<strong>and</strong>s of Scio <strong>and</strong> Nica-<br />

ria, hav<strong>in</strong>g Samos <strong>in</strong> our view. By noon we had passed Nicaria,<br />

a wretched isl<strong>and</strong>, which affords noth<strong>in</strong>g but wood for charcoal,<br />

to its half civilized <strong>in</strong>habitants, who reside <strong>in</strong> caves. At two <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> for-<br />

<strong>the</strong> afternoon wc passed Samos <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> Fournis Isl<strong>and</strong>s :<br />

mer is <strong>in</strong> one part extremely lofty, <strong>in</strong>somuch that it is considered<br />

by some to have an elevation almost equal to that of Gibraltar.<br />

At <strong>the</strong> above hour <strong>the</strong> isl<strong>and</strong> of Patmos was <strong>in</strong><br />

sight,<br />

distant<br />

from ten to twelve leagues. Be<strong>in</strong>g still favoured by a strong<br />

breeze from <strong>the</strong> north-east, we were off <strong>the</strong> harbour of that<br />

isl<strong>and</strong> between five <strong>and</strong> six o'clock <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g; but, be<strong>in</strong>g obli-<br />

ged to make several tacks <strong>in</strong> go<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>, did not come to an anchor<br />

till an hour after.<br />

Patmos has an excellent harbour ; <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> town be<strong>in</strong>g situated<br />

on <strong>the</strong> loftiest part of <strong>the</strong> isl<strong>and</strong>, makes a pretty appearance <strong>in</strong> en-<br />

ter<strong>in</strong>g. The houses be<strong>in</strong>g constructed of a white free-stone, have<br />

a peculiarly neat aspect, very different from what we had hi<strong>the</strong>rto<br />

seen <strong>in</strong> this quarter of <strong>the</strong><br />

globe.<br />

It has been calculated that <strong>the</strong><br />

town has an elevation of five<br />

nearly hundred feet above <strong>the</strong> level<br />

of <strong>the</strong> sea. In its centre is a large convent dedicated to St. John<br />

<strong>the</strong> evangelist, who was banished to this isl<strong>and</strong>. It was here that

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