Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

72 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY,
for the accommodation of both man and horse ; as, however,
no dependence can be placed on finding refreshments in them,
the traveller is under the necessity of providing himself with what-
ever may be requisite to his support. These kanns are spacious
buildings, having on each side a raised floor, on which the travel-
lers spread their mats, or carpets, to repose themselves, while the
centre is occupied by the horses. They are constantly open to re-
ceive those who are in need of an asylum for rest. In travelling,
the Turks are in general furnished according to their rank and con-
sequence, and to the service they have to perform. are They usu-
ally accompanied by a Mikmendar, a Chiaous, a Cavashe, or a
Tartar, whose duty it is to procure provisions, and provide every
thing requisite to the accomplishment of the journey.
Such, how-
ever, is the rapacity of these attendants, that, often not content
with having every necessary supplied by the needy and suffering in-
habitants, they demand, what in Turkish is called kcre el dars,
which implies something for the use of the teeth.
The 18th being her Majesty's birth-day, I was present at a ball
and supper given on the occasion bv Lord Elgin. The company
was very numerous, and the tables splendid and well served.
On the morning of rhe 19th, General Kothler, Major Fletcher,
Captain Leake, Mr. Pink the draughtsman, and Mr. Carlisle, from
the British ambassador's palace, all of them equipped as Tartars,
left Constantinople to proceed to Syria bv land.
On the 20th I was present at a religious ceremony of the dervises,
or Turkish priests. The house in which they assembled was
of an octagon form, with two galleries, the upper of which, sup-
ported by pillars, was occupied by musicians, who played very soft
and solemn music. In the lower gallery were stationed the Turks
and others who attended to witness this very singular service.
Round the apartment were hung in frames several Arabic senten-
ces, one of which, in particular, was suspended exactly over the
head of the superior of the dervises. He was seated; and each of
the dervises, on entering, bowed to him, and then took his place
in the lower gallery. Between twenty and thirty of these monks
being assembled, the superior repeated a prayer, during the continuance
of which they kneeled, and bowed their heads to the floor,
which they occasionally appeared to kiss. After they had chaunted
for some time, with the accompaniment of the music in the gallery,
the superior rose, and with a slow and solemn pace walked
three times round the apartment, bowing when he passed the