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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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J 14<br />

TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY,<br />

olive, pomegranate, almond, <strong>and</strong> mulberry-trees, are <strong>in</strong>terspersed,<br />

<strong>the</strong> latter be<strong>in</strong>g dest<strong>in</strong>ed for <strong>the</strong> nourishment of <strong>the</strong> breed of silk<br />

worms, which are a great source of revenue to <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>habitants, a<br />

considerable manufactory of silks be<strong>in</strong>g carried on at Scio, as well<br />

for home consumption as for exportation. A great part of <strong>the</strong><br />

isl<strong>and</strong> is still <strong>in</strong> an uncultivated state, ow<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> rocks which are<br />

bad condition of <strong>the</strong> soil.<br />

every where <strong>in</strong>terposed, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> general<br />

To supply, <strong>the</strong>refore, <strong>the</strong> wants of a<br />

very considerable population,<br />

amount<strong>in</strong>g from forty to fifty thous<strong>and</strong> souls, whose consumption<br />

far exceeds <strong>the</strong> produce which <strong>the</strong> l<strong>and</strong> is, by every <strong>in</strong>dustrious exertion,<br />

made to afford, <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>habitants are under <strong>the</strong> necessity of<br />

import<strong>in</strong>g both corn <strong>and</strong> cattle from Anadoiia, <strong>and</strong> from <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

adjacent countries.<br />

Hav<strong>in</strong>g returned to <strong>the</strong> convent to take leave, we partook of <strong>the</strong><br />

refreshments which were offered to us by <strong>the</strong><br />

holy fa<strong>the</strong>rs, <strong>and</strong> de-<br />

parted for Sew. The convent of Nehahmonee bestows lodg<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>and</strong> enterta<strong>in</strong>ment dur<strong>in</strong>g three days on all who, on <strong>the</strong>ir travels,<br />

solicit that <strong>in</strong>dulgence, without any <strong>in</strong>quiry be<strong>in</strong>g made relative to<br />

<strong>the</strong> religion <strong>the</strong>y profess. We were told that three hundred per-<br />

sons reside with<strong>in</strong> this sanctuary, which is so extensive that it appears<br />

like a small village. Of this number forty are priests who<br />

perform mass, <strong>and</strong> adm<strong>in</strong>ister to <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r duties of <strong>the</strong>ir sacred<br />

call<strong>in</strong>g ; while <strong>the</strong> caloyers, or lay bro<strong>the</strong>rs, who are <strong>the</strong> most nu-<br />

merous, cultivate <strong>the</strong> l<strong>and</strong>s assigned to <strong>the</strong>m by <strong>the</strong> convent, <strong>and</strong><br />

are furnished with a lodg<strong>in</strong>g, toge<strong>the</strong>r with a daily allowance of<br />

provisions <strong>and</strong> w<strong>in</strong>e. On <strong>the</strong> demise of <strong>the</strong>se lay bro<strong>the</strong>rs <strong>the</strong><br />

l<strong>and</strong>s revert to <strong>the</strong> convent, which beside, takes possession of all<br />

<strong>the</strong> property <strong>the</strong>y leave beh<strong>in</strong>d. They are allowed to marry ; but<br />

<strong>in</strong> this case cannot become priests, should <strong>the</strong>y even be without<br />

issue, although <strong>the</strong> priests <strong>the</strong>mselves are not bound to <strong>the</strong><br />

strictly<br />

observance of celiblcv. When <strong>the</strong> latter marry, <strong>the</strong>y wear a white<br />

fillet round <strong>the</strong> rim of <strong>the</strong> black cap which forms a part of <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

costume.<br />

In our return homewards we passed near <strong>the</strong> valley <strong>in</strong> which is<br />

situated <strong>the</strong> hospital appropriated for <strong>the</strong> leprous subjects of all<br />

<strong>the</strong> isl<strong>and</strong>s of <strong>the</strong> Archipelago. As we purposed, however, to visit<br />

it at a more convenient opportunity, it will be described <strong>in</strong> ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

place.<br />

It was six <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g before we reached our habitation<br />

at Scio.<br />

We visited on <strong>the</strong> 2d <strong>the</strong> houses of several of <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>in</strong>cipal Greek<br />

<strong>in</strong>habitants of Scio. They are capacious, lofty, well built, <strong>and</strong>

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