Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

I JO
TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY,
the church, were directed to the spot where St. John was borny
and which is constantly lighted up by lamps. The church is very
neatly decorated, and is ornamented by several good pictures.
The inhabitants of St. John are a mixture of Turks and Arabs,
the former of whom are by far the most numerous. They were, at
the time of cur visit, as well as two other neighbouring villages, in
a hostile state to Mahomed Pacha, who, not content with having
levied the customary annual avanias, or tributes, had endeavoured
to exact heavy contributions, which they had neither the will nor
the capacity to pay. They had accordingly assembled, and had
sworn, laying their swords across, which with them adds great
solemnity to the protestation, that they would prefer death to a submission
to any demand which should exceed the customary amount
of their contributions. In the vicinity of this village there are se-
veral fine vineyards, and other spots in excellent cultivation.
After having taken the necessary refreshments, we quitted St.
John at two in the afternoon, on our way to St. Jerome; on our
approaching which place we were met bv the Arab sheick, and a
considerable number of his people, who had come out to welcome
us, and pay their respects. On our arrival, at half past four o'clock,
we were conducted to a house which had been prepared for our re-
ception ; and, having
found ourselves at our ease.
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brought with us cold provisions, we soon
Shortly after we had reached the village, the inhabitants, who
were equally refractory with these of St. John, were thrown into
great confusion and alarm by the rumour that the troops of Maho-
med Pacha were approaching. Instantly both men and women
fled to an adjoining post, situated on a lofty mountain, very diffi-
cult of access, and equally hazardous to an enemy who should me-
ditate an attack. They there waited further intelligence respecting
the advances of the redoubted Pacha.
On our rising at four in the morning of the 2 1st, there was a
very considerable fall of dew, which, in this country, where the
rains occur so seldom, is in a manner indispensable to the vegetation.
We were told at Jerusalem that rain had not fallen there during
nine months.
The vineyards about St. Jerome, cultivated in terraces, or, in
other words, banked in with stones to prevent, the escape of the
soil and moisture, .had a very promising appearance. We left that
place about seven o'clock, to proceed to Kamla, and took a route
over the mountains, infinitely more agreeable and commodious to the