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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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294<br />

• TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY,<br />

rant<strong>in</strong>e of twenty-one days strictly enforced, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> case of arrivals<br />

by sea for <strong>the</strong> latter dest<strong>in</strong>ation.<br />

The town of Rosetta is delightfully situated on <strong>the</strong> western bank<br />

of what was anciently denom<strong>in</strong>ated <strong>the</strong> Bolbitic branch of <strong>the</strong> Nile,<br />

but which at present bears its own name, at <strong>the</strong> distance of about<br />

seven or eight miles from <strong>the</strong> sea. It lies to <strong>the</strong> north- west of Cairo,<br />

from which it is distant about an hundred <strong>and</strong> thirty miles, <strong>and</strong><br />

from Alex<strong>and</strong>ria by sea<br />

forty.<br />

Its pr<strong>in</strong>cipal commerce consists <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong><br />

carriage of merch<strong>and</strong>ize <strong>in</strong><br />

general, <strong>and</strong> of European commo-<br />

dities <strong>in</strong> particular, consigned from Alex<strong>and</strong>ria, to be conveyed to<br />

Gr<strong>and</strong> Cairo, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>nce to be distributed throughout <strong>Egypt</strong>. It<br />

thus becomes <strong>the</strong> entrepot of <strong>the</strong> trade of that country ;<br />

<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> this<br />

po<strong>in</strong>t of view is of considerable importance.<br />

The houses of Rosetta are constructed of red burned bricks, <strong>and</strong><br />

are lofty, many of <strong>the</strong>m hav<strong>in</strong>g four, <strong>and</strong> even five stories. They<br />

are po<strong>in</strong>ted with white mortar, which gives <strong>the</strong>m, when viewed<br />

from a distance, an air of neatness,<br />

at <strong>the</strong> same time that it ren-<br />

ders <strong>the</strong>ir aspect cheerful. The streets are very narrow. On <strong>the</strong><br />

whole, notwithst<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g it conta<strong>in</strong>s but few strik<strong>in</strong>g public edifices,<br />

Rosetta must be considered as a h<strong>and</strong>some place by those who have<br />

been accustomed to <strong>the</strong> sight of mud huts, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> s<strong>and</strong>y <strong>desert</strong>s.<br />

The mosques <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir m<strong>in</strong>arets are, as well as <strong>the</strong> houses, built<br />

with bricks, plaistered over <strong>and</strong> white-washed. In this style of<br />

external decorations, <strong>the</strong> natives possess, as well as <strong>the</strong> Turks, a<br />

peculiar excellence.<br />

The population of Rosetta may be estimated at from eight to ten<br />

thous<strong>and</strong> souls; but on a view of <strong>the</strong> great number of houses which<br />

were un<strong>in</strong>habited at <strong>the</strong> time of our stav <strong>the</strong>re, it appeared to be ca-<br />

at least treble <strong>the</strong> number. Its <strong>in</strong>ternal tran-<br />

pable of conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g<br />

quillity was less disturbed by <strong>the</strong> French <strong>in</strong>vasion of <strong>Egypt</strong> than<br />

that of any o<strong>the</strong>r place; a circumstance which may probably have<br />

arisen from <strong>the</strong> milder disposition of its <strong>in</strong>habitants, whose com-<br />

mercial <strong>in</strong>tercourse with o<strong>the</strong>r nations has given <strong>the</strong>m a softer<br />

polish.<br />

The lively scene I had occasion to witness at Rosetta, on my<br />

passage through that place <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> preced<strong>in</strong>g month of October,<br />

when <strong>the</strong> British troops comm<strong>and</strong>ed by General Baird were en-<br />

camped <strong>in</strong> its vic<strong>in</strong>ity, had completely disappeared. The bazars<br />

were at that period well supplied with European commodities ;<br />

while at <strong>the</strong> present <strong>the</strong>y conta<strong>in</strong>ed no o<strong>the</strong>r articles except such as<br />

are to be found <strong>in</strong> all <strong>the</strong> bazars of <strong>Egypt</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Turkey</strong>. The

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