Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 47
and France. In my subsequent details relative to the Grand Vi-
sier and the Capitan Pacha, 1 shall have occasion to notice,
in a
particular manner, the improvements he has introduced in his army
and marine. He is of a courteous and affable character; and his
physiognomy is tine and full oi expression. His figure is well pro-
portioned, and his aspect commanding.
My companions and myself were invited, after the procession to
dine with the Grand Seignor's surgeon, at whose house we were
very well entertained in the Turkish style; and notwithstanding
we were, in eating, compelled to adopt the mode practised by the
Turks, that is, that we were unprovided with either knife, fork,
or plate, we contrived to make a good dinner. The following is
a concise description of these repasts.
A cloth having been laid on
the floor, a small table with the legs turned uppermost is placed on
it, and on this again is laid a large circular waiter of tinned copper,
round which the company seat themselves. Before each of the
guests, bread in the form of a flat pancake, and two spoons are
placed. The dishes are served up singly, one after the other ; and
if filled with soup or liquid food, the spoons are. resorted to. If,
on the other hand, they contain solids, the
guests help themselves
with the thumb and finger. However repugnant this custom must
have been to the feelings and ideas of Englishmen, a keen appetite,
and the savouriness of the dishes, in some measure reconciled us to
it; and custom, which sways us so powerfully, enabled, us, in the
sequel, entirely to get the better of our squeamishness. The meats
are in
general cut small for the convenience of those who are to
partake of tfeem ; but on the present occasion whole ducks were
served. These the donor of the feast pulled in pieces with his fin-
gers, and distributed the portions to his guests. Pipes and coffee
were brought in after dinner, and we at
length took our leave.
On the 15th, in the I morning, accompanied General Kbehler
to Pcra, and from thence to Constantinople, where we had an in-
terview of nearly two hours with his Excellency Hadgi Ibrahim
Effcndi, with whom the general had some particular
business to
transact. In the course of this visit, a silver salver, containing
conserve of roses, and other sweetmeats, was handed round, in addition
to the usual refreshments of pipes and coffee. When we
were about to take leave, each of us was presented with two finely
not to omit here the con-
wrought muslin handkerchiefs. I ought
cluding pare of the ceremony. After we had taken a draught of
sherbet, which was presented to us, our hands were sprinkled with