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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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40<br />

TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY,<br />

fissures, occasioned by <strong>the</strong> different fires which have taken place <strong>in</strong><br />

its vic<strong>in</strong>ity, <strong>in</strong>somuch that it is now encircled by iron hoops to keep<br />

it toge<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

After our excursion, we d<strong>in</strong>ed on board <strong>the</strong> New Adventure<br />

transport ; <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> afternoon went on board <strong>the</strong> Charon to take<br />

leave, she be<strong>in</strong>g on rhe eve of sail<strong>in</strong>g from Constant<strong>in</strong>ople for Gi-<br />

braltar. I did not reach Buyukdere until midnight. The wea<strong>the</strong>r<br />

had been extremely sultry dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> day, <strong>the</strong> <strong>the</strong>rmometer be<strong>in</strong>g<br />

at eighty-eight <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> shade.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> 13th, I rode to Levant Chifiiek. On my return,<br />

I heard<br />

<strong>the</strong> Charon salute <strong>the</strong> Gr<strong>and</strong> Seignor <strong>in</strong> pass<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> seraglio po<strong>in</strong>t.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g of <strong>the</strong> 1 4th 1 went to a kiosque <strong>in</strong> Buyukdtre,<br />

wh'ei e <strong>the</strong> Greeks were assembled to s<strong>in</strong>g, dance, <strong>and</strong> partake of<br />

oth r amusements. I jo<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>the</strong> promenade afterwards <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> mea-<br />

dow, <strong>in</strong> which <strong>the</strong>re was a very numerous assemblage of Greeks,<br />

Turks, <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs. It be<strong>in</strong>g Sunday, <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>habitants of all <strong>the</strong><br />

neighbour<strong>in</strong>g villages were collected; <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> groups which were<br />

formed, by <strong>the</strong> variety of <strong>the</strong>ir costumes, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> characteristic<br />

traits peculiar to each nation, had a very pleas<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> to me a very<br />

novel effect. While <strong>the</strong> Greeks displayed all <strong>the</strong> gaity <strong>and</strong> nonchalance<br />

which belong to <strong>the</strong>ir character, <strong>the</strong> Turks, with much<br />

gravity, had recourse to <strong>the</strong>ir constant companion <strong>the</strong> pipe, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>tervals of smok<strong>in</strong>g took coffee.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> 15th I rode to Levant Chifiiek, where I visited <strong>the</strong> Aga<br />

<strong>and</strong> several o<strong>the</strong>r Turku who were <strong>in</strong>disposed. On <strong>the</strong> preced<strong>in</strong>g<br />

day we had made an appo<strong>in</strong>tment with Mr. Spurr<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>the</strong> English<br />

ship-builder at Constant<strong>in</strong>ople, to visit <strong>the</strong> Sultan Selim, <strong>the</strong> ship<br />

which bore <strong>the</strong> flag of <strong>the</strong> Capitan Pacha. We were <strong>the</strong> more an-<br />

xious to do this, as <strong>the</strong> Turkish fleet was to sail <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> course of a<br />

few days for <strong>the</strong> Dardanelles. We went on board accord<strong>in</strong>gly,<br />

<strong>and</strong> found her to be a remarkably f<strong>in</strong>e vessel: we were told, how-<br />

ever, that her timbers were not proportioned to her size, <strong>and</strong> that<br />

she would work very ill <strong>in</strong> tempestuous wea<strong>the</strong>r, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> a rough<br />

sea. The Sultan Selim mounts one hundred <strong>and</strong> twenty forty-two-<br />

pounders, besides o<strong>the</strong>r guns of a smaller caliber. The Capitan,<br />

Pacha's cab<strong>in</strong> was fitted up <strong>in</strong> a very elegant style. At <strong>the</strong> sides<br />

were suspended a considerable number of rich <strong>and</strong> beautiful sabres,<br />

pistols, <strong>and</strong> muskets, which, be<strong>in</strong>g<br />

set with a profusion<br />

of diamonds,<br />

<strong>and</strong> curiously<br />

<strong>in</strong>laid with gold, made a very glitter<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>and</strong> showy appearance. The furniture <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r o<strong>the</strong>r decorations<br />

of <strong>the</strong> cab<strong>in</strong> were <strong>in</strong> a<br />

correspond<strong>in</strong>g<br />

of<br />

style magnificence.<br />

Sevc-

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