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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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312<br />

TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY,<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir gayest attire, it be<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> festival of <strong>the</strong> blessed Virg<strong>in</strong>. On<br />

this account <strong>the</strong> greater part of <strong>the</strong> bazars were shut.<br />

The dress to which I have alluded is so extremely s<strong>in</strong>gular, that<br />

I am persuaded <strong>the</strong> reader will not be displeased at my attempt<strong>in</strong>g<br />

to describe it at some length. The head-dress is somewhat agree*<br />

able, <strong>and</strong> consists of a skull-cap, embroidered <strong>in</strong> gold, hav<strong>in</strong>g a<br />

coloured wrought h<strong>and</strong>kerchief passed round it, which leaves <strong>the</strong><br />

embroidery <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> centre of <strong>the</strong> cap uncovered. In some <strong>in</strong>stances<br />

<strong>the</strong> head is simply covered by a white h<strong>and</strong>kerchief; <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> hair<br />

is occasionally cut short, while by o<strong>the</strong>rs of <strong>the</strong>se females it is left<br />

flow<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> r<strong>in</strong>glets down <strong>the</strong> back. They wear a k<strong>in</strong>d of short<br />

spencer of green silk or sat<strong>in</strong>, <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>side of <strong>the</strong> sleeves be<strong>in</strong>g stuffed<br />

with cotton, to give to <strong>the</strong> arms an appearance of plumpness.<br />

The gold embroidered cuffs, which reach nearly to <strong>the</strong> elbows, are<br />

turned back. Over this spencer <strong>the</strong>y have a wide outer vest, pas-<br />

sed round <strong>the</strong> body, <strong>and</strong> reach<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>the</strong> knees only, which is<br />

plaited <strong>in</strong> such a way as to make <strong>the</strong> wearer appear of an enormous<br />

size, <strong>and</strong> as if clad <strong>in</strong> a wide but short hoop. This outer<br />

garment is ei<strong>the</strong>r of green, or of p<strong>in</strong>k sat<strong>in</strong>, or silk; but <strong>the</strong> former<br />

of <strong>the</strong>se colours is <strong>the</strong> most prevalent. A short apron of silk<br />

or of sat<strong>in</strong>, which is sometimes embroidered, <strong>and</strong> sometimes made<br />

of flowered cottons of different colours, reaches from <strong>the</strong> bosom<br />

to <strong>the</strong> knees. The white cotton petticoat is worn so short, that<br />

<strong>the</strong> red embroidered garters are seen <strong>in</strong>tentionally hang<strong>in</strong>g beneath<br />

k: <strong>the</strong> stock<strong>in</strong>gs are white, as are also <strong>the</strong> slippers, or shoes, which<br />

are worn down at <strong>the</strong> heel, but fancifully decorated with coloured<br />

silk ribbons, <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rwise verv elegantly ornamented. Some of<br />

<strong>the</strong>se females display <strong>the</strong> upper part of <strong>the</strong> bosom, which is cover-<br />

ed by o<strong>the</strong>rs with a h<strong>and</strong>kerchief. They are <strong>in</strong> general very fair,<br />

have agreeable features, <strong>and</strong> a f<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> strik<strong>in</strong>g physiognomy. In<br />

this isl<strong>and</strong>, <strong>in</strong>deed, <strong>the</strong> complexion both of <strong>the</strong> Greek <strong>and</strong> Turkish<br />

women is good; but <strong>the</strong> former, not content with that which<br />

nature has liberally bestowed on <strong>the</strong>m, endeavour to embellish it<br />

by hav<strong>in</strong>g recourse to art. I allude here to <strong>the</strong> Greek women who<br />

<strong>in</strong>habit <strong>the</strong> town of Sew: <strong>the</strong>y go always unveiled, <strong>and</strong> when <strong>the</strong>y<br />

put on <strong>the</strong>ir gay garments, are highly rouged, or pa<strong>in</strong>ted.<br />

When a Turk espouses one of <strong>the</strong>se females, <strong>the</strong> children whom<br />

she bears to him are educated <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Mahomedan faith, while<br />

<strong>the</strong> mo<strong>the</strong>r is permitted to cont<strong>in</strong>ue <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> practice of her own re-<br />

ligion.

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