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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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126 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY,<br />

which <strong>the</strong> sacred writ<strong>in</strong>gs have recorded, are <strong>in</strong> this way built over<br />

<strong>and</strong> preserved.<br />

The <strong>in</strong>habitants of Bethlehem consist, for <strong>the</strong> greater part, of<br />

Greeks, Armenians, <strong>and</strong> Arabs converted to Christianity. Among<br />

its population but few Turks are to be found. The dress of <strong>the</strong><br />

men, like that of <strong>the</strong> neighbour<strong>in</strong>g peasants, is extremely simple,<br />

<strong>and</strong> consists of a long white chemise, or frock, with a girdle fast-<br />

ened round <strong>the</strong> waist. Very few of <strong>the</strong> poorer sort, whe<strong>the</strong>r males<br />

or females, wear shoes. The women are dressed <strong>in</strong> a blue che-<br />

mise, with a cotton belt or girdle, <strong>and</strong> cover <strong>the</strong> head with a long<br />

white veil, which flows looselv down <strong>the</strong> back. Their complexion<br />

is very dark, approach<strong>in</strong>g almost to black. They are very labori-<br />

ous, <strong>and</strong> submit to every description of drudgery. They are be-<br />

tro<strong>the</strong>d as soon as <strong>the</strong>y come <strong>in</strong>to <strong>the</strong> world; <strong>and</strong> marry at <strong>the</strong> ear-<br />

ly age of twelve vears.<br />

Bethlehem st<strong>and</strong><strong>in</strong>g on an em<strong>in</strong>ence, <strong>and</strong> on a chalky soil, is<br />

justly considered by <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>habitants as possess<strong>in</strong>g a very salubrious<br />

air; <strong>in</strong> proof of which, I observed but few among <strong>the</strong>m who had a<br />

sickly appearance. There were <strong>in</strong>deed some cases of ophthalmia,<br />

but very rare. The sides of <strong>the</strong> mounta<strong>in</strong> on which this town is<br />

situated were, as well as <strong>the</strong> summit, <strong>in</strong>terspersed with f<strong>in</strong>e v<strong>in</strong>e-<br />

yards, banked <strong>in</strong> with stones, which must have cost a prodigious<br />

labour to <strong>the</strong> cultivators. The grapes <strong>the</strong>y yielded were remarkably<br />

large, <strong>and</strong> f<strong>in</strong>ely flavoured. In addition to <strong>the</strong>se we saw figs, pomegranates,<br />

<strong>and</strong> an abundance of olives, on which fruits <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>habi-<br />

tants, <strong>in</strong> a great measure, subsist. In <strong>the</strong> vallies some corn is produced;<br />

<strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> bread made from it is of an excellent quality. The<br />

dews, which fall <strong>in</strong> great abundance, are highly favourable to <strong>the</strong><br />

vegetation <strong>in</strong> general.<br />

As we had to return <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> afternoon, <strong>the</strong> visits of <strong>the</strong> Greek <strong>and</strong><br />

Armenian patriarchs, it was somewhat late before we quitted Beth'<br />

lehem, <strong>in</strong>somuch that we did not reach our convent at Jerusalem<br />

until seven <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g. I brought away with me from <strong>the</strong><br />

former of <strong>the</strong>se places, several chaplets, or str<strong>in</strong>gs of beads, made<br />

from a fruit brought from Mecca, dyed of a red colour, <strong>and</strong> cros-<br />

ses, <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r tr<strong>in</strong>kets made from a pearl oyster, which <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>habi-<br />

tants procure from <strong>the</strong> Red Sea, <strong>and</strong> which <strong>the</strong>y manufacture <strong>in</strong>to<br />

<strong>the</strong>se curious articles with ereat address.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> 1 9 th at eleven <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g, we left <strong>the</strong> convent at<br />

Jerusalem, on our way to <strong>the</strong> Mount of' Gliies, situated at about<br />

a mile's distance from <strong>the</strong> walls of <strong>the</strong> city. Our attention was <strong>the</strong>n

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