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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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l88 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY,<br />

lency, guards, <strong>and</strong> attendants. The British military mission succeeded;<br />

<strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> rear was brought up by <strong>the</strong> tartavan of <strong>the</strong> Tef-<br />

terdar, <strong>and</strong> five led horses, with his Excellency, guards, <strong>and</strong> at-<br />

tendants. The military treasures are <strong>in</strong>variably carried with <strong>the</strong><br />

Tefterdar.<br />

The heavy ra<strong>in</strong>s which fell on our march<strong>in</strong>g off <strong>the</strong> ground<br />

<strong>in</strong>commoded us not a little, <strong>and</strong> occasioned many disasters to <strong>the</strong><br />

baggage <strong>and</strong> tents. After hav<strong>in</strong>g proceeded about twelve miles,<br />

<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> performance of which <strong>the</strong> ra<strong>in</strong>s cont<strong>in</strong>ued with little <strong>in</strong>ter-<br />

ruption, we reached, at five <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> afternoon, a f<strong>in</strong>e level country,<br />

which had been rendered swampy by <strong>the</strong> long cont<strong>in</strong>uance of wet<br />

wea<strong>the</strong>r; <strong>and</strong> encamped near a river, hav<strong>in</strong>g over it a remarkably<br />

wide, bridge. To <strong>the</strong> south of us, on a hill distant about three<br />

miles, was situated a village which <strong>the</strong> Arabs call Esdad, proba-<br />

bly what was called Eshtaol <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> scriptural writ<strong>in</strong>gs. Dur<strong>in</strong>g<br />

<strong>the</strong> whole of this dav's march we skirted <strong>the</strong> s<strong>and</strong>y hillocks near<br />

<strong>the</strong> sea shore.<br />

We were <strong>in</strong>formed that <strong>the</strong> Vizier would halt at our new ground<br />

of encampment until <strong>the</strong> 14th, to give time to <strong>the</strong> camels <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

animals, worn out with fatigue, to recover <strong>the</strong>mselves. In <strong>the</strong><br />

event this proved to be absolutely necessary, as a part of <strong>the</strong> tents,<br />

<strong>and</strong> baggage had been ei<strong>the</strong>r dropped or left on <strong>the</strong> road, <strong>and</strong> did<br />

not reach <strong>the</strong> ground until that day.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> mean time both of-<br />

ficers <strong>and</strong> men suffered considerably from <strong>the</strong> want of <strong>the</strong>ir tents.<br />

The difficulties by which <strong>the</strong> march was attended will be conceived<br />

when 1 state, that <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> performance of it no less than two hun-<br />

dred <strong>and</strong> ten camels perished.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> I 3th v *, had s-uffic ient leisure to look about us, <strong>and</strong> per-<br />

ceived that several small Arab villages were situated on <strong>the</strong> neigh-<br />

bour<strong>in</strong>g em<strong>in</strong>ences. They were <strong>in</strong>habited by <strong>the</strong> class of Fellahs,<br />

or Arab husb<strong>and</strong>men, whom I have already described, <strong>and</strong> who<br />

were for <strong>the</strong><br />

greater part MaJtomedans. They brought to <strong>the</strong><br />

camp fresh btuter of an excellent quality, <strong>and</strong> a k<strong>in</strong>d of cheese<br />

which resembled our cream cheese <strong>in</strong> Engl<strong>and</strong>, toge<strong>the</strong>r with eggs,<br />

milk, vegetables, <strong>and</strong> yourt, which <strong>the</strong>y call Labban. The Bedou<strong>in</strong><br />

Arabs tendered us also for sale kymack of a good quality.<br />

An Arab sheick arrived on <strong>the</strong> above day from Sala/iie/i, with<br />

a quantity of f<strong>in</strong>e dates, <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r presents for <strong>the</strong> Vizier.<br />

Ihe camels hav<strong>in</strong>g been laden on <strong>the</strong> 14th at day-break, <strong>and</strong><br />

every o<strong>the</strong>r preparation made for our departure, we quitted <strong>the</strong><br />

ground at eight o'clock. The morn<strong>in</strong>g was uncommonly plea-

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