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Travels in Turkey, Asia Minor, Syria, and across the desert into Egypt ...

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328<br />

TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY,<br />

sible <strong>the</strong> approach to any village, <strong>the</strong> disposition of <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>habitants<br />

of which had not been well ascerta<strong>in</strong>ed.<br />

We set out at four <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g of <strong>the</strong> 29th, <strong>and</strong> passed<br />

through a very f<strong>in</strong>e <strong>and</strong> rich country, abound<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> pasture grounds,<br />

on which numerous flocks <strong>and</strong> herds were graz<strong>in</strong>g. We saw an<br />

abundance of poultry, several waggons laden with which we met<br />

on <strong>the</strong> road. Our journey was <strong>in</strong>f<strong>in</strong>itely agreeable over fertile <strong>and</strong><br />

richly cultivated pla<strong>in</strong>s, resembl<strong>in</strong>g those of <strong>the</strong> most productive<br />

parts of Engl<strong>and</strong>. At half past eight o'clock we halted for two<br />

hours. Wc fell <strong>in</strong> with several caravans, or large companies of<br />

travellers, on our route, this be<strong>in</strong>g, from motives of security, <strong>the</strong><br />

custom of travell<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> this country. The <strong>in</strong>habitants, when<br />

abroad, are" constantly armed. The progress we made was at <strong>the</strong><br />

rate of about three miles <strong>and</strong> a half <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> hour ; <strong>and</strong> at half past one<br />

o'clock we arrived at Yenipazzar, <strong>in</strong>habited pr<strong>in</strong>cipally by Turks,<br />

with an <strong>in</strong>considerable number of Greeks. The houses are con-<br />

structed of laths <strong>and</strong> plaster, with tiled roofs ; but <strong>the</strong> poorer class<br />

of <strong>in</strong>habitants dwell <strong>in</strong> caves, over which a thatched roof is thrown.<br />

The town is surrounded bv a mud wall, <strong>and</strong> a dry ditch, with a<br />

gate at each extremity. We made a short stay <strong>the</strong>re ; <strong>and</strong> hav<strong>in</strong>g<br />

afterwards proceeded to <strong>the</strong> distance of six miles, passed through a<br />

village called Oukboudan, composed of wretched thatched huts.<br />

At six <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g we halted at ano<strong>the</strong>r poor viliage, called<br />

Tekerkcx, where we passed <strong>the</strong> night.<br />

On <strong>the</strong> 30th we set out at four <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> morn<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> at <strong>the</strong> end<br />

of two hours came to <strong>the</strong> village of SJiemlah, where we made a<br />

halt. At half past ten we reached ano<strong>the</strong>r village, delightfully si-<br />

tuated at <strong>the</strong> side of a f<strong>in</strong>e wood of oak-trees. The surround<strong>in</strong>g-<br />

scenery was beautiful <strong>and</strong> romantic. At half past six <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g<br />

we reached <strong>the</strong> vic<strong>in</strong>ity of Rasgat, a large town, which con-<br />

ta<strong>in</strong>s several mosques, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>re reposed ourselves for <strong>the</strong> night.<br />

We set out at <strong>the</strong> accustomed early hour, on <strong>the</strong> 31st, <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> a<br />

little time reached <strong>the</strong> above place, where we spent two hours <strong>in</strong> a<br />

han, or kann, dest<strong>in</strong>ed, as I have already expla<strong>in</strong>ed, for <strong>the</strong> accommodation<br />

of travellers <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir beasts, as well as for <strong>the</strong> reception<br />

of <strong>the</strong> merch<strong>and</strong>ize <strong>the</strong>y carry with <strong>the</strong>m. The town of Rusgat<br />

has two gates, <strong>and</strong> is surrounded by palisadoes <strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>ud walls. The<br />

<strong>in</strong>habitants are a mixture of Greeks <strong>and</strong> Turks. Hav<strong>in</strong>g proceed-<br />

ed on our route, we halted for two hours <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> middle of <strong>the</strong> day,<br />

<strong>and</strong> at seven <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> even<strong>in</strong>g took up, as usual, our quarters for <strong>the</strong><br />

i^ight <strong>in</strong> our arabars. As soon as we had halted, a part o( <strong>the</strong> ca-

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