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How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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Large socket and brass hammer being used<br />

for installing a rope seal in the bearing cap<br />

by laying the cap in vise jaws. Don't clamp<br />

on the cap. Work around seal until it is all<br />

the way in its groove, then trim ends flush<br />

with cap or block, Install seal in block the<br />

same way.<br />

SILICONE<br />

SEALER<br />

I<br />

Sl LICONE SEALER<br />

Drawing shows how to position a split-lip-type seal. Each half should project approximately 3/8-inch out <strong>of</strong> its groove in the bearing cap<br />

and block, but on opposite sides so the two will engage when the cap is installed. Apply a small amount <strong>of</strong> silicone sealer just prior to<br />

installing the cap. Here's a cap with its bearing insert, seal and sealer ready to be installed.<br />

Each bearing half has a bent-down tab<br />

at one end. The top bearing halves which<br />

go into the block are grooved. Their tabs<br />

are located <strong>of</strong>f-center whereas the bottom<br />

halves are not grooved and their tabs are<br />

centered. The locating tabs help prevent<br />

the bearings from being installed wrong.<br />

Install the bearings in the block by<br />

first putting the tab <strong>of</strong> each bearing in<br />

the notch at the edge <strong>of</strong> its bore. Hold<br />

the bearing flush with the edge <strong>of</strong> the<br />

bearing bore with a finger or thumb<br />

while you force the bearing into place by<br />

pushing down on the opposite end with<br />

your other thumb.-All the bearing halves<br />

will go in with little effort except for the<br />

center one. It also serves as a thrust bearing,<br />

and will require more force because<br />

the thrust flanges fit tightly around the<br />

bearing web.<br />

Before installing the top bearing halves<br />

in the caps, lightly file the cap-to-block<br />

mating surfaces to ensure the caps will fit<br />

in their registers. <strong>To</strong> do this, you'll need a<br />

large flat, fine-tooth file. Lay the file on<br />

your bench and stand a cap up on the file.<br />

Lightly run the cap over the file a few<br />

times while holding the cap square against<br />

the file. Be careful not to remove any<br />

material from the cap except for nicks or<br />

burrs-small projections raised above the<br />

normal mating surface. After doing this,<br />

install the non-grooved inserts into the<br />

caps.<br />

Check Bearings-to-Journal Clearance-You<br />

have already determined the correct size<br />

bearings for your main bearings by measuring<br />

the main journals with a micrometer.<br />

Due to the relatively close accuracy<br />

<strong>of</strong> mikes and the close tolerances to<br />

which bearings are manufactured, direct<br />

clearance checks are unnecessary,<br />

assuming the right bearings got in the<br />

right box. <strong>How</strong>ever, assuming can cause<br />

considerable trouble and checking merely<br />

takes time.<br />

Rear-Main-Bearing Seal-If you have a<br />

split-lip rear-main-bearing seal, you can<br />

install it now if you aren't clearance<br />

checking with Plastigage. If you have the<br />

rope type, install it later if you are<br />

checking main-bearing clearances now<br />

using either method. With this in mind,<br />

let's get on with installing both types <strong>of</strong><br />

seals.<br />

Split-Lip-Seal Installation-If your engine<br />

was originally equipped with a rope sealchances<br />

are it was as it came from the<br />

factory-a sharp pin is centered in the seal<br />

groove in the rear-main cap.<br />

Remove the pin with a small punch,<br />

driving it out from the back-side in. If<br />

you've already installed a bearing insert in<br />

the cap, remove it so it won't get damaged.<br />

Reinstall it after you have the seal<br />

in place. Place the cap over the end <strong>of</strong> a<br />

piece <strong>of</strong> wood so the load taken by the<br />

cap is directly below the pin as you drive<br />

it out.<br />

With the rope-seal pin out <strong>of</strong> the cap,<br />

fill the rernaininghole with silicone sealer,<br />

install the seal and reinstall the bearing<br />

insert. Lightly coat the seal halves with<br />

oil, and while installing them, don't let<br />

oil get on the block and cap mating surfaces.<br />

If it does, wipe them clean with<br />

lacquer thinner. The seal lip must point<br />

toward the front <strong>of</strong> the engine when<br />

installed. Also, don't line up the ends <strong>of</strong><br />

the seal halves with the cap and block<br />

mating surfaces. Rotate the seal halves in<br />

the block and cap so one end projects<br />

approximately 318 inch up from the<br />

block and cap mating surfaces and so<br />

they fit together with the cap installed.<br />

RopeSeal Installation-Put half <strong>of</strong> the<br />

rope seal in the block groove, laying it<br />

edgeways in the groove. Force it in with<br />

your thumb, leaving both ends <strong>of</strong> the<br />

seal extending above the block and cap<br />

ENGINE ASSEMBLY 99

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