How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

More documents

Recommendations

Info

If you are removing your cam bearings, here Is one method of doing it-a mandrel and drive bar. Mandrel must fit bearing ID, shoulder against bearing shell and clear bearing bore in the block as bearing is being removed. Because all 429/460 cam bearings are same diameter, only one mandrel is required for removal or installation. You'll need at least two mandrels for the 351 C or 351 M/400. keep them in order. Remember, used lifters must be installed on their original cam lobes or the lifters and the camshaft will literally be wiped out. Metal particles from the lobes and lifters will be circulated through the oiling system. To keep your lifters in order, use anything from a couple of egg cartons to a board with 16 one-inch holes in two rows of eight. Just place the lifters in the same order as they would be in when installed in the engine. Make sure you indicate which is the front of the engine on the device you are using to keep them in order. Now, all you have to do is push the lifters down through their bores. They'll fall right out because the lifters travel down into their bores, thus keeping the upper part of their bodies free from varnish. When pushing out a lifter, make sure you have one hand underneath ready to catch it as it falls out to prevent damage. On the other hand, if you don't plan to reuse them, let them fall where they may. Plugs, Cam Bearings and Things-Your engine should be free of its moving parts with the removal of the cam and lifters. What's left are the oil-gallery plugs, carnshaft bearings and rear plug, the oil-filter adapter and-the core plugs-if you didn't remove them as suggested earlier in the chapter. Oil-Gallery Plugs-There are 4 oil-gallery plugs, 2 at the front of the block and 2 at the rear. You'll need a 5116-inch hex As with all steel coolant-related components on the 351 C I'm rebuilding for this book, block-to-heater-hose tube is rusted so bad it should be replaced. If your 351 C or 351 M/ 400 has suffered from the same fate, remove it with Vise-Grip pliers. Remove water-temperature sender so it won't get damaged. 429/460 sender is located in the intake manifold. TEARDOWN 49
wrench to remove them. It's important that your oiling system be opened up so you can get it as clean as possible, particularly if your engine shows any signs of sludge buildup. If you have hex wrenches for your , socket set, this job will be much easier. All you'll need is a breaker bar in addition to a short extension for the plug behind where the distributor shaft normally is. However, if you only have the normal set of Allen wrenches, you'll need something to apply torque to the wrench and plug. A box-end wrench slipped over the end of the hex wrench works well for this. -- Camshaft Bearings-Replacement cam bearings are precision inserts which assume the correct diameter after they are driven into the block. Because the bearing bores in the block are supposed to be bored on the same center line, replacement bearings installed using conventional methods should yield the same alignment results as the original factory method. However, it's possible they won't, meaning that the bearings must be trued, or clearanced by align-boring or the old bluing-and-scraping technique. This requires an experienced motor machinist. So consider this while you're deciding whether or not to remove your cam bearings. I found one such out-ofline bearing in building the engines for this book. If YOU intend b ~LIIV yuur UIUGK UII rne way, remove rhe oil-filter adapter. You'll need a big am the cam-bearing socket-1 -1/4 inch to be exact. Shove socket against block to prevent its slippng off and rounding hex corners while applying torque
Page 1 and 2: HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3: Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7: DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9: A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11: may be causing the problem at this
Page 12 and 13: ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15: To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17: Radlators can be heavy like this bi
Page 18 and 19: emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 20 and 21: ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
Page 22 and 23: ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25: get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27: Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29: When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31: 351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
Page 32 and 33: I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35: pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37: PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39: 4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41: Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43: Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45: You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47: cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49: them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 52 and 53: 5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55: After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57: 0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59: Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61: Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63: If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65: Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67: while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69: When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71: Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73: Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75: New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79: anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83: The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85: will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91: Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93: This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95: .,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97: If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99: BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101:
Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105:
Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107:
Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109:
A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111:
metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113:
Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115:
Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117:
Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119:
Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121:
lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125:
12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127:
LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129:
- 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131:
I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133:
- Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135:
housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137:
Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139:
You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141:
Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143:
spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145:
4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147:
_- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149:
TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151:
P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153:
If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155:
- R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157:
starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159:
After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161:
Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
show all

How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?