How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

More documents

Recommendations

Info

Begin carburetor teardown by removing the external hardware; automatic-choke assembly, fuel fllter, throttle solenoid and any other items which have been hung on your carburetor. Don't overlook removing the air-cleaner hold-down stud before you remove the carburetor top. It threads into the main body. After your carburetor is torn down and cleaned, lay out the rebuild kit. Be careful. There are several small parts that are easy to lose, particularly the ball check/s. There are more parts than you need. This allows one kit to be used to rebuild more than one carburetor model. filter-not the butterfly-and the choke lav out the parts in an orderly fashion. vacuum can and throttle solenoid or dashpot if yours is one of the later emissioncontrolled models. Remove the bowl cover. Don't forget - to remove the air-cleaner hold-down bolt from the center. You now have access to the float, its needle and seat, the venturi booster assembly and main jets. Also remove the discharge-nozzle screw, accelerator-pump discharge-ball check, and nozzle-and-venturi-booster assembly. Be careful with these parts. They are easily damaged and lost. Strip the bowl cover and throttle body of their "exterior" components. The main, or throttle body will have a power/ economizer valve, idle screws and accelerator pump. A tip here: screw the idlemixture screws in until they bottom, while counting the number of turns. Make a note of it for reassembly. After removing them, the cleaning-process can start. Soak the parts in carburetor cleaner or lacquer thinner-long enough to remove or soften the carbon and varnish deposits so they can be rinsed or wiped off. A note of caution: Don't soak any rubber or plastic parts in solvent. This includes the float. Otherwise, there's a good chance they will be ruined. After the parts have soaked for a while and you've rinsed and dried them off, blow all the passages out with compressed air, if you have it available. Be very careful not to get any solvent in your eyes when doing this. Assembly-Relying on the instruction sheet that came with your rebuild kit, begin assembling your carburetor. First open up the kit too, but be careful not to lose any of the little parts-ball check, gasket, clips and the like. I leave the parts in the box, but fix it so I can easily see them. Put the exterior parts on the throttle body first, the economizer/power valve, idle jets and the accelerator pump and its linkage. Be careful during the assembly that you don't over-tighten any component. You are working with delicate parts and soft material. There aren't any torque specifications, so you'll just have to rely on your grey matter. Start with the inside. Install the main jets using a screwdriver that fits tightly in their slots. The next job is more than just assembly-setting float level or height. Float level governs the fuel level in the bowl, so it must be right. Check float level by installing the float, its needle and seat. Lightly hold the float and its needle in the closed position. Using the floatlevel gage that came in your rebuild kit, check the float position in the bowl. Position the gage across the top of the float Installing the booster-venturi assembly involves several parts. Ball-check and its weight go in first, followed by gasket, booster, booster-venturi screw and its airdistribution plate or gasket. bowl, and measure down to the top of the raised float, using the correct tab on the end from which the needle the q-he kit's sDecification sheet then reinstall it for a recheck. You'll '2 0 gives you this informa;ion. A tip-rather probably have to do this another time or than holding the float and needle in the two before the level is right, then you can closed ~ositions. hold the carburetor up- leave the float and needle permanently side dokn and lkt the float weight do it. installed. This is more realistic as it loads the float Install the venturi booster assembly, assembly similar to how it will be loaded the ball check and its weight, the airin actual service. distribution plate and the discharge-nozzle If you find that the float needs ad- screw to hold the complete assembly in justing-it will-remove it and its needle place. YOU should now be ready to close assembly to make the adjustment. Bend up your carburetor. CARBURETOR REBUILD 135
0 A .,. ...s.I....., ..,.. .~eedle seat, assemble new needle to float and install it in float bowl. Check float height with the gage from the rebuild kit. Gage works for several carburetors, so refer to the specification sheet to find the float-height you are checking. Rather than pushing down on the needle-end of the float to check height like thls, hold carburetor upside down so float is hanging. Before installing the bowl cover, install the choke vacuum-break diaphragm assembly if your carburetor is so equipped. A flat nylon seal goes under the cover to seal the diaphragm linkage. Don't forget it. Install the bowl cover with its gasket, four bolts and the center air-cleaner bolt. When installing the idle-mixture screws, run them in until they bottom lightly, then back them off the same number of turns you noted during the teardown. Your carburetor may not be set exactly right for idling, but the idle-mixture adjustment should be close to the correct setting. To complete the assembly, install all the hang-on parts, the choke, throttle solenoid or dashpot, choke vacuum can and a new filter. Hooking up the linkages to all these parts and getting everything adjusted can turn out to be the most challenging job of rebuilding your carburetor. Follow the kit instruction sheet closely. TESTING AND CALIBRATION After your engine is installed with its new or rebuilt carburetor and distributor, you'll want to make sure they will perform at their peaks-maximum mileage and power with a minimum amount of pollutants. Distributor and carburetor tuning are major factors in determining an engine's performance, and to tune them to their full potential requires expensive and sophisticated tuning equip- .,. ment at the hands of a tuning specialist. This is the subject of the last chapter. Adjusting float height. Bend down tab from which needle hangs to lower the float. Bend it up to raise float. Install float and recheck its helght. Install choke-linkage dust shield and top gasket. There may be a couple of these gaskets in your kit. Find the correct one by matching it up with your old gasket. Dust shield prevents unfiltered air from being drawn Into the carburetor through the choke-linkage clearance hole. After carburetor top is in place, you can add all the external hardware. Don't forget to replace the identification tag. Finish up by installing throttle solenoid.
Page 1 and 2:
HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3:
Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7:
DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9:
A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11:
may be causing the problem at this
Page 12 and 13:
ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15:
To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17:
Radlators can be heavy like this bi
Page 18 and 19:
emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 20 and 21:
ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
Page 22 and 23:
ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25:
get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27:
Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29:
When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31:
351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
Page 32 and 33:
I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35:
pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37:
PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39:
4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41:
Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43:
Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45:
You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47:
cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49:
them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51:
If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53:
5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55:
After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57:
0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59:
Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61:
Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63:
If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65:
Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67:
while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69:
When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71:
Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73:
Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75:
New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77:
CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79:
anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81:
CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83:
The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85:
will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91: Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93: This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95: .,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97: If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99: BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101: Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105: Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107: Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109: A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111: metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113: Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115: Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117: Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119: Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121: lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125: 12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127: LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129: - 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131: I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133: - Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135: housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 138 and 139: You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141: Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143: spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145: 4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147: _- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149: TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151: P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153: If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155: - R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157: starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159: After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161: Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162: HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
show all

How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?