How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

More documents

Recommendations

Info

- 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining clip is best removed with your fingernail. Remove vacuum-advance diaphragm and lift out pickup. Push centrifugal-weight C-clips out of their grooves to remove weights. Remember to keep a finger on clip while you're removing it. If centrifugal weights are retained with this type clip, don't attempt to remove them. You'll destroy them and they aren't serviced-meaning you can't buy them. Breaker-point-cam and armature-sleeve removal is the same for breaker-point and solid-state distributors. With lubricating wick out of the way, remove retaining clip. You'll need small needle-nose pliers for this. Cam or sleeve assembly should lift off shaft easily. However, some coaxing may be required if shaft is varnished. Remove thrust washer next. This one has ears for locking itjn place on shaft plate. Support backsides of gear hub or collar to drive out roll pins. I'm using a 1 /8-inch pin punch. A nail with the end ground flat will work. Cutting a short section of the old oil-pump driveshaft to use as a punch for removing gear and collar. It's easier to use than the full length of the shaft. DISTRIBUTOR REBUILD 127
Supporting backside of gear to drive shaft down through gear with piece of old driveshaft. Soft jaws of this vise won't damage the gear. Distributor housing will support load required to remove collar. It's a relatively loose fit. Long skinny punch being used to remove bottom distributor-shaft bushing. Support housing base and leave room for bushing as it is driven out. sleeve which accepts the armature rather than the cam used for operating a set of points. The remainder of the teardown is the same for both types. Disassembly From the Baseplate Down- You can rernove the main distributor shaft at this point, but I've shown removing the centrifugal-advance weights and springs first. Before you remove the spri~gs, weights or cam or sleeve, mark them so you'll have a reference for reinstalling them in their original positions. A dab of light-colored paint on one spring and its hvo attachirzg points and one of the weights arzd the pirz it fits will do the job. The cam or sleeve has two differentlength notches at the edge of its plate to limit maximum centrifugal advance. The notch with the correct advance is located over the tab which is fitted with a Hypalon sleeve. Put a dab of paint at the edge of this slot. You have to be careful not to rernove the paint while you're cleaning the parts. Cam, Spring and Weight Removal-When unhooking the centrifugal-advance return springs. stretch each of them only far enough to lift them off their pins. The cam or sleeve can be removed after you have the springs off. Remove the retainer from the cam or sleeve center. Lift out the lubricating wick. Use small needlenose pliers to lift one end of the spring out of its groove and. a screwdriver to keep it from slipping back in while you lift the other end out. After removing the retainer, lift the cam or sleeve off the shaft. Don't lose the thrust washer that's located directly under it. Now for the weights. If retained with C-clips, pop them off and remove the weights. If plastic clips are used, don't attempt to remove them. They look like flat washers with fluted IDS, or fingers, on their inside diameters. Ford dealers don't stock them. If you remove them they'll break and you won't be able to replace them. If this sounds like bad news to you, it shouldn't. Centrifugal-pivot wear is not a problern. When they do wear the effect is minimal. Just make sure the weights pivot freely. DistributorShaft Removal-We're to the state of disassembly where all distributors are the same. Remove the gear and collar. Back up the gear hub-not the teeth-with the jaws of a vise or something that will clear the roll pin as it is being driven out. Use a 118-inch-diameter pin punch, or a drift punch no larger than 118 inch. 314 inch from its end. Remove the pin fron~ the collar. Press or Drive the Gear and Collar Off-If you don't have a press, you'll have to use some less-sophisticated means to remove it. Regardless of which method you use, back up the gear with something fairly substantial. Two parallel steel plates will do if you have a press or slightly open vise jaws will work. Suspend the distributor upside-down by supporting it squarely on the backside of the gear. Don't press or drive directly on the end of the shaft. Use a short section of your old oil-pump shaft inserted in the end of the shaft. As the shaft end nears the gear, be ready to catch the distributor housing. Remove the Bushingls-If your distributor has the short lower bushing, you'll need a 3-112-inch-long, 318-inch-diameter punch to knock it out the bottom of the housing. Support the housing on its base and over a hole or slot so the bushing will clear as it is being driven out. I I R BUSHING 1 1 Top bushing is in tight, so a support inside housing is needed to avoid housing damage. A 3/4-inch deep socket can be used for the support. You'll need at least a 1/2-inch punch to catch the bottom lip of the bushing.
Page 1 and 2:
HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3:
Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7:
DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9:
A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11:
may be causing the problem at this
Page 12 and 13:
ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15:
To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17:
Radlators can be heavy like this bi
Page 18 and 19:
emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 20 and 21:
ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
Page 22 and 23:
ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25:
get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27:
Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29:
When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31:
351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
Page 32 and 33:
I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35:
pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37:
PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39:
4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41:
Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43:
Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45:
You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47:
cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49:
them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51:
If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53:
5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55:
After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57:
0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59:
Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61:
Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63:
If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65:
Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67:
while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69:
When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71:
Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73:
Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75:
New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77:
CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79: anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83: The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85: will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91: Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93: This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95: .,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97: If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99: BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101: Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105: Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107: Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109: A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111: metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113: Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115: Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117: Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119: Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121: lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125: 12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127: LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 130 and 131: I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133: - Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135: housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137: Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139: You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141: Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143: spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145: 4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147: _- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149: TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151: P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153: If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155: - R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157: starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159: After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161: Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162: HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
show all

How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?