How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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A simple check to make sure pistons are in the right holes and in the right direction-rod numbers pointing toward their cylinder bank and piston arrows or notches pointing forward. These pistons are numbered because they were fitted to the bores to obtain consistent pistonto-bore clearances. Even the most accurate pistons or bores are not exactly the same diameter, but don't think you have to do this because fitting pistons is not a standard rebuilding procedure. Checking connecrlng-roa slae clearance. It should be 0.010-0.020 inch with a maximum allowable clearance of 0.023 inch. Align crank and cam like this when installing timing chain and sprockets. Crankshaft key is slightly left of straight-up. With crankshaft sprocket and damper bolt and washer on crank end, fit cam sprocket and chain to crank sprocket so timing marks line up. Sllde sprocket-and-chain assembly back so cam sprocket engages camshaft nose. It's going to be tight if you are installing a new chain and sprockets. Fully engage cam sprocket with its drive pin by turning crankshaft clockwise whlle pushing back on cam sprocket. Install the Fuel-Pump Cam-Secure the camshaft sprocket, making sure you install the fuel-pump cam, or eccentric between the sprocket and the attaching bolt and washer. There are two basic types of cams, the one-piece and the two-piece. One-piece cams were used on the early 429s until they changed to the two-piece design during the 1971 model year. 429CJ, SCJ and Police engines continued to use the one-piece cam. The Police version of the 460 as well as 4291460s installed in F150 or larger trucks also use the one-piece design. All other fuel-pump cams are the two-piece design. The difference between these two fuelpump cams is the fuel-pump actuating arm slides against the one-piece cam much in the sqme way a lifter slides against its cam lobe. The outer ring of the two-piece cam rotates OII its inner piece, reducing sliding action between the fuel-pump arm and the cam. Sliding action is not harmful to the cam or arm.The twopiece type is less costly to manufacture, which is why the change was made. As opposed to most one-piece fuelpump cams for other Ford engines, the 4291460 types doesn't depend on the camshaft drive pin to locate or drive it. It depends on the clamping force of the camshaft-sprocket bolt. Consequently it only has one hole in it. This doesn't present any particular problem unless the bolt loosens. If this happens, the cam rotates on the bolt rather than against the fuel-pump arm and no fuel is pumped to the carburetor. In a way this is a good feature because it brings attention to a bigger problem-the loose bolt. Unlike the one-piece cam, the twopiece locates to the cam sprocket with a ENGINE ASSEMSLY 107
ent-down tab on the back of the inner part of the cam. It fits loosely in the cam drive-pin hole. Install the fuel-pump cam using the 3/8-16 x 2-inch or 1 -112-inch-long, grade-8 bolt-depending on whether you have a 351C and 351M/400 or a 4291460. A dab of Loctite on the bolt threads is good insurance against the bolt loosening. With a washer behind the bolt. attach the cam to the camshaft nose and timing-chain sprocket and torque it to 40-45 ft. lbs. Slide the oil slinger over the end of the crank extension and you're ready to install the timing-chain cover. Don't worry about the loose slinger. When the crankshaft damper is installed, it will sandwich the slinger (and spacer sleeve in the case of the 4291460) between it and the crank sprocket. TIMING-CHAIN COVER AND CRANKSHAFT DAMPER If you haven't cleaned the front engine cover yet, do it now. Remove all the dirt, grease and old gasket material. Use a punch and a hammer to remove the crankshaft oil seal. Carefully knock the seal out the back of the cover by placing the punch behind the inside lip and gradually work around the seal until it falls out. Don't try to knock the seal out with one whack or you may break the die-cast aluminum cover of your 4291460. With the old seal out of the way, clean the seal bore in preparation for receiving the new seal. Install the New Seal-You'll find a new oil seal in your gasket set. Coat the outside periphery of its shell with sealer. How you install it depends on whether you have the 351 C, 35 1 MI400 sheet-metal cover, or the 4291460 aluminum cover. The seal is best installed in the sheet-metal cover by clamping the seal and cover between the jaws of a vise and using the vise like a press. This forces the seal straight in without. it cocking. If you don't have a vise, you can install the seal with the cover on a bench. Use a socket or piece of pipe slightly smaller than the seal OD-2-112-inch diameter is about right-which will seat against the seal edge. Doing the installation this way is frustrating because the seal will cock, but it can be done with some care and patience. An aluminum cover seal can be installed similarly, but the seal must go in from back-to-front rather than from the front side of the cover. To install the seal on a bench, support the cover immediately in front of the seal bore, then use a 2-112- inch OD socket or piece of pipe to drive the seal in as I just described for the sheet. Complete cam-drive assembly by installing fuel-pump cam. You may have one of three cam types depending on your engine. Locate the cam over the sprocket and secure it with the attaching bolt and washer. Small hole in one-piece cam locates over camshaft drive pin. In case you have a 429/460 and are wondering, its fuel-pump cam doesn't have the small hole. The cam depends on bolt clamping force to prevent it from rotating relative to the cam. Torque the bolt 40-45 ft.lbs. Slip crankshaft oil slinger back against crank sprocket and you're ready for the front cover. Rather than using camshaft drlve pln, twopiece fuel-pump cam locates to cam sprocket with bent-down tab projecting into sprocket drive-pin hole. Outer ring turns on inner cup. Removing front seal from 351C front cover. Drive seal out front of cover by working around seal backside with a punch and hammer. If yours is a 429/460, drive seal out the back in similar manner, however be considerably more careful because the cover is cast aluminum. . If you have 351 C or 351 M/400, replace Its front cover if it's rusted like this one. Rusting through results in water being pumped into the crankcase. Using anti-freeze will prevent this problem. Support front cover on a firm flat surface and drive seal into place with steel, aluminum or brass tubing which matches the seal's outer shell. Drive seal into a steel cover from the front side and into an aluminum cover from the back. Be sure the seal lip points rearward as installed in the engine.
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HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3:
Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7:
DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9:
A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11:
may be causing the problem at this
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ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15:
To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17:
Radlators can be heavy like this bi
Page 18 and 19:
emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 20 and 21:
ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
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ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25:
get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27:
Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29:
When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31:
351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
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I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35:
pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37:
PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39:
4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41:
Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43:
Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45:
You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47:
cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49:
them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51:
If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53:
5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55:
After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57:
0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59: Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61: Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63: If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65: Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67: while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69: When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71: Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73: Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75: New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79: anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83: The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85: will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91: Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93: This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95: .,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97: If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99: BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101: Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105: Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107: Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 110 and 111: metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113: Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115: Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117: Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119: Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121: lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125: 12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127: LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129: - 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131: I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133: - Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135: housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137: Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139: You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141: Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143: spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145: 4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147: _- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149: TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151: P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153: If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155: - R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157: starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159:
After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161:
Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
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