How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

More documents

Recommendations

Info

Except for rocker arms and fulcrums, thls is a complete cylinder-head assembly. I prefer installing rocker arms after heads are on engine. So, for now I cover the heads up until engine is ready. installed spring height. With the installation of the last svrina and valve, your heads are assembled to the point that they can be installed on your engine block when it's ready. Spray the heads with oil and cover them so they'll remain clean, dry and rust-free until you're ready for them. INTAKE MANIFOLD All that's required to restore your intake manifold to like-new condition is a thorough cleaning. If it was hot-tanked, this job will be considerably easier. Scrape 4 -* its gasket surfaces-head, cylinder block and carburetor. Remove the Baffle-Early 4291460 engine intake manifolds have a sheet-metal baffle riveted to their undersides to shield engine oil from the hot underside of the heat passage. This type of baffle was used rather than the later type which is an integral part of the intake-manifold-tocylinder-head gaskets. To clean the sludge build-up from this area, you'll have to remove the baffle. Two spiral-groove rivets secure the baffle to the manifold. To remove them, you'll need to wedge something with a very sharp wedge under the rivet heads. A long skinny chisel will do. One thing to be aware of, the rivet-heads are easily broken off. If this happens, drill out the remainder of the rivet. Wedge under the rivet-head until the head is about a quarter inch off the bafflefar enough to clamp onto the head with a pair of Vise-Grip pliers. With the pliers clamped on the rivet head, pry under the pliers while turning the rivet counterclockwise to unscrew it. When you've - To do a complete JOD or cleanlng an early 428/480 intake manifold, you'll have to remove the heat-riser baffle. Do this by wedging under the rivets to raise them far enough so you can clamp on with a pair of Vise-Grip pliers so they can be "unscrewed" from the manifold. Be careful, their heads are easily broken off. , .~
A baffle rivet has a spiral "thread" for retention. Pitch is coarse so it can be driven into place. removed the first rivet, back out the second one iust far enoueh so vou can rotate the biffle out of thve way so you can remove the sludge and caked-on deposits. After you have the manifold clean, rotate the baffle back into place and install the rivet. Here's where skinny fingers or needle-nose pliers come in handy. Hold the rivet so it starts in squarely, then tap it lightly into place. Break a Rivet-It's relatively easy to break off a rivet head, but don't be discouraged if you do. Get on with the job of removing the remainder of the rivet so you can reinstall the baffle. Don't think you can do without the baffle because if you reinstall the manifold without it you'll end up with an oil-consumption problem due to the oil atomizing when it comes in contact with the hot underside of the intake manifold.. It will then go out the engine's PCV system. Rather than trying to find a replacement rivet, replace it with a 114-20x318- inch bolt. First, drill an 118-inch pilot hole in the center of the broken rivet. Center-punch the rivet first to make sure the drill doesn't run off center. Next, use a 7132-inch drill to remove the remainder of the rivet. A 7132-inch diameter hole is the correct size for a 1/4-20 tap. After tapping- the hole and cleaning the manifold, reinstall the baffle using the bolt and a lockwasher. I After sludge is cleaned from underside of intake manifold and inside bafrte, relnsrall baffle and its rivets. Lightly tap rivets into place. Don't forget heat-riser passages. Remove carbon deposits
Page 1 and 2:
HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3:
Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7:
DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9:
A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11:
may be causing the problem at this
Page 12 and 13:
ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15:
To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17:
Radlators can be heavy like this bi
Page 18 and 19:
emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 20 and 21:
ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
Page 22 and 23:
ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25:
get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27:
Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29:
When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31:
351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
Page 32 and 33:
I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35:
pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37:
PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39:
4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41: Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43: Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45: You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47: cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49: them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51: If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53: 5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55: After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57: 0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59: Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61: Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63: If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65: Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67: while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69: When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71: Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73: Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75: New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79: anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83: The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85: will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 92 and 93: This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95: .,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97: If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99: BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101: Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105: Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107: Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109: A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111: metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113: Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115: Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117: Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119: Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121: lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125: 12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127: LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129: - 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131: I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133: - Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135: housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137: Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139: You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141:
Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143:
spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145:
4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147:
_- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149:
TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151:
P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153:
If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155:
- R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157:
starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159:
After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161:
Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
show all

How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?