How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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Install water pump before the sealer dries. If you're bulldlng a 429/460, make sure you install the by-pass hose while installing the pump. It's nearly impossible after the pump is in place. 429/460 water pump, its gaskets and backing plate. Seal and assemble backing plate to pump with its gasket, then install pump on front cover with remaining gasket. Don't forget timlng polnter. 351 C and 351 M/400 pointer locates over rlght-hand frontcover pin and Is secured by two bottom cover bolts on that side. Upper end of 429/460 polnter is secured to cover wlth a self-tapplng screw and bottom wlth a cover bolt. pump driveshaft. Even worse than hearing the clunk is not discovering that the driveshaft is no longer in place after installing the distributor. The amount of engine damage is proportional to the time it takes to discover there is no oil pressure. Install the Oil Pump-You'll find your pump-to-block gasket in the engine gasket set. Don't use sealer when installing the pump, only the gasket. With the gasket in place on the block, install the pump while engaging the driveshaft with the pump and secure the pump to the block with its two 3/8-16 bolts and their lockwashers. Torque the bolts to 25 ft.lbs. Check the pickup for location and adjust it if it's not centered. Install the Oil Pan-With the pump in place, take one last look at the bottom end, then proceed to install the oil pan. Gather all the parts you'll need; front and Removing pickup from this soon-to-be re- Short section of 3/4-inch pipe cut like this Pickup being installed in its new pump placed 429 oil pump. Note how pickup is makes an excellent pickup-installation using the "installation tool." 429/460 positioned in pump, then gradually work tool. pump is resting on vise in which it is lightly pickup out by rotating and lifting up on it. clamped. Position pickup as it was original- Simply unscrew a 351C or 351 M/400 ly, then drive it into place by working pickup from pump. around the bead. ENGINE ASSEMBLY 11 1
1 12 ENGINE ASSEMBLY With gasket in place, install oil pump and driveshaft. No sealer is needed on this gasket. ' 429/460 oil-pump pickup centered as viewed from underneath. Position 351 C or 351M/400 pickup so it will be level with oil-pan bottom. Make final pickup adjustments after installing oil pump. Front section of a small-block Ford shows the same oil-pump driveshaft setup as the 335 and 385 series engines. Collar at distributor-end of driveshaft prevents shaft from being pulled from pump and falling into oil pan when distributor is removed. Drawing courtesy Ford. rear pan seals, right and left cork gaskets and the attaching bolts. You'll need 19 1/4-20 x 518-inch-long bolts for a 4291460, otherwise you'll need 16. You'll also need 4 5/16-18 x 314-inch-long bolts with lockwashers, to go directly adjacent to the front and rear pan seals. The 4 larger bolts pull the pan down against the resisting force of the front-cover and rear-cap oilpan seals. The force required to do this would strip a 1/4-20 thread. With the block upside down, apply adhesive-type sealer to the block's gasket surface, then lay the cork gaskets on the block-after you've figured out which one goes where and in which direction. After the gaskets are in place, put the frontcover and rear-main-cap seals into place. These rascals can be tough! First, put a little dab of silicone sealer at the end of the cork seals where the neoprene seals will join them. With the seals in place, work them down into their grooves with your thumb, particularly where they join the cork gaskets. Using a large adjustable wrench to position 351 C oil-pump pickup. With end seals located on front cover and rear main-bearing cap, fit cork pan gaskets. Projections from cork-gasket ends fit between end seals and block at front and rear cover. A small dab of sealer at the four joints readies the engine for the pan.
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HPBooks How to find out what needs
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Introduction This book deals with r
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DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
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A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
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may be causing the problem at this
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ect, particularly if there appears
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To ensure that your hood will fit a
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Radlators can be heavy like this bi
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emove the compressor and have a sys
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ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
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ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
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get on with the physical makeup of
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Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
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When sifting through your local scr
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351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
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I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
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pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
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PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
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4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
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Tearing down your engine is the fir
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Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
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You'll need a puller to remove the
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cam sprocket and chain, and then th
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them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
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If you are removing your cam bearin
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5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
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After you've cleaned out the head-
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0.020 inch, the next available over
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Checking deck-surface flatness with
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Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63: If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65: Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67: while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69: When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71: Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73: Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75: New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79: anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83: The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85: will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91: Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93: This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95: .,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97: If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99: BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101: Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105: Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107: Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109: A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111: metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 114 and 115: Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117: Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119: Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121: lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125: 12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127: LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129: - 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131: I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133: - Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135: housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137: Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139: You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141: Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143: spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145: 4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147: _- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149: TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151: P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153: If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155: - R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157: starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159: After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161: Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
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