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How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up as they<br />

would be installed; piston arrows and<br />

notches to the front and rod rumbers .<br />

toward their cylinder banks.<br />

Bearing inserts complete the piston-and-rod assemblies. Install the bolt sleeves, oil the<br />

bearings, then immerse the piston in oil over the rings and pin. It's now ready for the ring<br />

compressor.<br />

end gap over the groove. When the ring<br />

lines up with the groove all the way<br />

around, release it into its groove. When<br />

your thumbs revive, install the top ring<br />

using the same method. It'll be easier because<br />

it won't have to go down over the<br />

piston as far.<br />

PISTON AND CONNECTING-ROD<br />

INSTALLATION<br />

<strong>To</strong> install a piston-and-connecting-rod<br />

assembly into its engine, you must have a<br />

ring compressor, two bearing-journal protectors<br />

for the rod bolts, an oil can, something<br />

to push the piston into its bore-a<br />

hammer will do-and a large tomato can<br />

containing some motor oil. You don't<br />

have to have the last item, but it's the<br />

most convenient way I know to pre-lube<br />

your rings and pistons.<br />

Get Everything Ready-Just like the<br />

other facets <strong>of</strong> engine building, you have<br />

to be organized when installing connecting<br />

rods and pistons. All tools must be<br />

within reach, everything must be clean<br />

and the engine positioned so you'll be<br />

able to insert each piston-and-rod assembly<br />

into its bore while guiding the rod<br />

into engagement with its crank journal.<br />

Before starting the actual rod-andpiston<br />

installation, clean your engine's<br />

cylinder bores. Use paper towels, not<br />

rags. Look your pistons and rods over<br />

too. Regardless <strong>of</strong> how clean the rest <strong>of</strong><br />

the assembly appears, wipe <strong>of</strong>f the bearing<br />

inserts as well as their bores in the<br />

rods and caps. If you're doing the engine<br />

assembly on a bench, roll the block upside-down<br />

so one <strong>of</strong> the deck surfaces<br />

hangs over the edge <strong>of</strong> the bench. The<br />

engine will be resting on the other deck<br />

surface. This will give you clear access to<br />

the top and bottom <strong>of</strong> the bores and to<br />

the crankshaft-bearing journals. Have the<br />

pistons close by and organized according<br />

to their positions in the engine. This way<br />

you won't have to hunt for each piston<br />

even though it gets easier as you go along.<br />

With all the tools ready, you should be<br />

ready to slip the rods and pistons in their<br />

holes.<br />

Crankshaft Throws at BDC-If you've removed<br />

the crankshaft damper bolt and<br />

washer, replace them. You'll need them<br />

so you cai turn the crank during the rodand-piston<br />

installation process. The throw<br />

or connecting-rod journal must be lined<br />

up at BDC with the bore that's to receive<br />

a piston and rod. This is so you'll have<br />

room between the bottom <strong>of</strong> the cylinder<br />

and the crank journal to guide the rod's<br />

big end into engagement with its journal<br />

as you slide the piston into the bore.<br />

Once you have the crankshaft in position,<br />

remove the bearing cap from the rod<br />

you're going to install. Be careful not to<br />

knock the bearing inserts loose if you installed<br />

them earlier. Above all, don't mix<br />

them with other inserts. Avoid this by<br />

only removing one rod cap at a time. Slip<br />

the journal protectors over the rod bolts.<br />

Liberally oil the piston rings, the skirt<br />

and the wrist pin. Here's where the tomato<br />

can with oil in it comes in handy. Just<br />

immerse the top <strong>of</strong> the piston in the oil<br />

over the wrist pin, then spread oil over the<br />

piston skirt. While you're at it, spread oil<br />

onto the bearing inserts with a finger tip.<br />

Ring compressors vary in design, so<br />

follow the directions that accompanied<br />

yours. If you don't have the directions,<br />

here's how to use one. There are two<br />

basic styles. Most common and least expensive<br />

operates with an Allen wrench.<br />

The compressed position is held by a<br />

ratchet and released .by a lever on the side<br />

<strong>of</strong> the compressor sleeve. The second<br />

type uses a plier arrangement. A ratchet<br />

on the plier handle holds the rings in the<br />

compressed position. This type is available<br />

from Sealed Power Corporation with<br />

sleeves or bands to accommodate 2-718-<br />

4-318-inch piston diameters.<br />

<strong>To</strong> use a ring compressor, fit it loosely<br />

around the piston with the long side <strong>of</strong><br />

the sleeve pointing up in relation to the<br />

piston. With the clamping portion <strong>of</strong> the<br />

compressor centered on the three rings,<br />

compress the rihgs while wiggling the<br />

compressor slightly. This helps to compress<br />

the rings fully.<br />

Using the notch or arrow on the piston<br />

dome or the rod number as reference for<br />

positioning the assembly, insert the<br />

piston and rod in its bore while being<br />

careful not to let the connecting rod bang<br />

against the cylinder wall. The lower portions<br />

<strong>of</strong> the piston skirt should project<br />

out <strong>of</strong> the bottom <strong>of</strong> the compressor<br />

sleeve. Insert the piston in the bore and<br />

push the compressor against the block to<br />

square it with the block deck surface.<br />

Holding onto your hammer by its head,<br />

use the handle to push or tap lightly on<br />

the head <strong>of</strong> the piston to start it into the<br />

bore. If the piston hangs up before it's all<br />

the way in, STOP. Don't try to force the<br />

piston in the rest <strong>of</strong> the way. What's<br />

happened is a ring popped out <strong>of</strong> the bottom<br />

<strong>of</strong> the compressor before entering<br />

the bore, consequently if you try forcing

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