How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking up your car, jack under number-two crossmember-under the engine. Some unit-body cars are not equipped with this crossmember, so you'll have to jack under something solid like the front-supension strut-rod bushing bracket. This car is firmly supported by jack stands under front torque boxes. Don't forget to block rear wheels. set comes in handy for reaching the nuts. Don't be surprised if the studs unthread from the manifold. Cooling Lines and Starter-Motor Cable- With an automatic transmission, make sure the cooling lines are unclipped from CAUTION-If you use the friend-andstarter method, make sure he understands the ignition switch is not to be touched without your direction. qF ' 1 the engine. Some have clips and some Now for the Starter Motor-After redon't. If yours does, just push the lines moving the converter nuts, disconnect the out of the clips to release them. While battery cables at the battery. Remove the you're looking up where these lines gousually on the right side with down-flow bottom starter bolt first, then the top one while supporting the front of the starter P* radiators and left side with cross-flows- with one hand. Lifting a starter out is make sure the starter-to-battery lead is tricky on unit-body cars equipped with out of its bracket. conventional steering-not rack and Engine Mounts-If you couldn't reach an pinion. Slide the starter forward, and engine mount from topside to remove its drop its nose-geared end-between the bolts, do it now. Remember, once the nut steering linkage and the converter housing. is off, just slide the bolt out. If you don't need to remove your starter CI) Expose the Converter-With an automatic motor for rebuilding, you don't need to transmission, remove the converter cover disconnect the cable. Just leave it hanging at the front of the engine plate. It's usually there until it is ready to be replaced. Supattached with two or three bolts. port it with some wire or rope to take the Get Power to the Starter-With an auto- load off the cable. matic transmission, reconnect the battery Finish Unbolting the Bellhousing-Regardground so you'll have power to the starter. less of which transmission you have, the Now, if you don't possess a remote rest of the removal process is pretty much starter, have a trustworthy friend bump the same. The only job left before lowering Advantage Of a long for disconnecting exhaust pipes is evident here. A the engine over to expose each of the your car is to remove the remaining bell- shot of oil on nuts and studs an converter-to-flexplate nuts for removal-a h~~sing/converter-housing bolts. After hour or so before you're ready to remove socket on the front of the crank pulley doing this, take one last look underneath them will also help. works well too. Particularly if you've just to make certain everything is disconremoved the spark plugs. nected from the engine.
20 ENGINE REMOVAL With nut off, engine-mount bolt is free to slide out. Remove the Alternator-After setting your car down, the last thing to do before pulling the engine is to disconnect the battery ground and alternator leads from the engine if you haven't already done so. Remove the alternator and set it aside out of the way. You may have to support it with some wire or rope. Remove the battery. Lift the Engine Out-Take a last look around the engine compartment to double-check that everything is disconnected-inevitably, there will be something. Once you're confident the engine is ready, position your lifting device over the engine, or the car and the engine under it. Attach a liftingcable with looped ends or a chain to the front of one head and the rear of the other with bolts and washers. Or if you're lucky, your engine will be equipped with lifting lugs the factory used for installing your engine. They will be attached to the cylinder heads with the exhaust manifolds and their bolts. Make sure there is enough slack in the cablelchain so you'll be able to set the engink all the ;ay down once it's out of the engine compartment. The chainlcable must be short enough so the engine can be lifted high enough to clear the body work when pulling it out, so keep this in mind also. Hook onto the chainlcable approximately in the middle so the engine will be balanced once it is free from the transmission and engine mounts. Lift the engine high enough so the mounts will clear as the engine is moved forward. Bring the jack in contact with the transmission. NOW you're ready to disengage the engine from its transmission. This may require a little juggling. Standard transmissions require moving the engine farther forward so the input shaft fully disengages from the clutch. Regardless of which transmission your car is equipped with, the engine will first have to be lifted high enough so it can be moved forward. Keep the jack in contact with the transmission as the engine is raised. Don't force the engine if it hangs up. You could damage something. Check around to see what bolt, ground strap or other connection you may have overlooked. Correct the problem and proceed. As soon as the engine is completely free of the transmission, hoist it out. Mark the Converter and Flex Plate-With light-colored paint-spray or brush-mark the stud at the bottom of the converter and the matching bottom hole on the engine flex plate. Flex-plate holes and With front-cover plate removed, converter-to-flexplate mounting studs and nuts are exposed. Index engine with starter or a wrench on damper bolt to bring each stud and nut into view. Don't forget to mark one stud and flexplate so they can be reinstalled in their original positions.
Page 1 and 2: HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3: Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7: DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9: A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11: may be causing the problem at this
Page 12 and 13: ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15: To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17: Radlators can be heavy like this bi
Page 18 and 19: emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 22 and 23: ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25: get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27: Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29: When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31: 351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
Page 32 and 33: I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35: pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37: PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39: 4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41: Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43: Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45: You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47: cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49: them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51: If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53: 5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55: After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57: 0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59: Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61: Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63: If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65: Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67: while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69: When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71:
Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73:
Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75:
New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77:
CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79:
anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81:
CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83:
The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85:
will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87:
or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89:
Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91:
Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93:
This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95:
.,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97:
If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99:
BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101:
Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105:
Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107:
Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109:
A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111:
metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113:
Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115:
Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117:
Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119:
Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121:
lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125:
12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127:
LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129:
- 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131:
I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133:
- Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135:
housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137:
Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139:
You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141:
Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143:
spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145:
4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147:
_- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149:
TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151:
P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153:
If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155:
- R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157:
starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159:
After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161:
Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
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