How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of
How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of
How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of
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ENGINE REMOVAL 19<br />
- i<br />
When jacking up your car, jack under number-two crossmember-under the engine. Some<br />
unit-body cars are not equipped with this crossmember, so you'll have to jack under something<br />
solid like the front-supension strut-rod bushing bracket. This car is firmly supported<br />
by jack stands under front torque boxes. Don't forget to block rear wheels.<br />
set comes in handy for reaching the nuts.<br />
Don't be surprised if the studs unthread<br />
from the manifold.<br />
Cooling Lines and Starter-Motor Cable-<br />
With an automatic transmission, make<br />
sure the cooling lines are unclipped from<br />
CAUTION-If you use the friend-andstarter<br />
method, make sure he understands<br />
the ignition switch is not to be touched<br />
without your direction.<br />
qF<br />
' 1<br />
the engine. Some have clips and some Now for the Starter Motor-After redon't.<br />
If yours does, just push the lines moving the converter nuts, disconnect the<br />
out <strong>of</strong> the clips to release them. While battery cables at the battery. Remove the<br />
you're looking up where these lines gousually<br />
on the right side with down-flow<br />
bottom starter bolt first, then the top one<br />
while supporting the front <strong>of</strong> the starter<br />
P*<br />
radiators and left side with cross-flows- with one hand. Lifting a starter out is<br />
make sure the starter-to-battery lead is tricky on unit-body cars equipped with<br />
out <strong>of</strong> its bracket. conventional steering-not rack and<br />
Engine Mounts-If you couldn't reach an pinion. Slide the starter forward, and<br />
engine mount from topside to remove its drop its nose-geared end-between the<br />
bolts, do it now. Remember, once the nut steering linkage and the converter housing.<br />
is <strong>of</strong>f, just slide the bolt out.<br />
If you don't need to remove your starter CI)<br />
Expose the Converter-With an automatic motor for rebuilding, you don't need to<br />
transmission, remove the converter cover disconnect the cable. Just leave it hanging<br />
at the front <strong>of</strong> the engine plate. It's usually there until it is ready to be replaced. Supattached<br />
with two or three bolts.<br />
port it with some wire or rope to take the<br />
Get Power to the Starter-With an auto- load <strong>of</strong>f the cable.<br />
matic transmission, reconnect the battery Finish Unbolting the Bellhousing-Regardground<br />
so you'll have power to the starter. less <strong>of</strong> which transmission you have, the<br />
Now, if you don't possess a remote rest <strong>of</strong> the removal process is pretty much<br />
starter, have a trustworthy friend bump the same. The only job left before lowering Advantage Of a long for disconnecting<br />
exhaust pipes is evident here. A<br />
the engine over to expose each <strong>of</strong> the your car is to remove the remaining bell- shot <strong>of</strong> oil on nuts and studs an<br />
converter-to-flexplate nuts for removal-a h~~sing/converter-housing bolts. After hour or so before you're ready to remove<br />
socket on the front <strong>of</strong> the crank pulley doing this, take one last look underneath them will also help.<br />
works well too. Particularly if you've just to make certain everything is disconremoved<br />
the spark plugs.<br />
nected from the engine.