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How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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ENGINE REMOVAL 19<br />

- i<br />

When jacking up your car, jack under number-two crossmember-under the engine. Some<br />

unit-body cars are not equipped with this crossmember, so you'll have to jack under something<br />

solid like the front-supension strut-rod bushing bracket. This car is firmly supported<br />

by jack stands under front torque boxes. Don't forget to block rear wheels.<br />

set comes in handy for reaching the nuts.<br />

Don't be surprised if the studs unthread<br />

from the manifold.<br />

Cooling Lines and Starter-Motor Cable-<br />

With an automatic transmission, make<br />

sure the cooling lines are unclipped from<br />

CAUTION-If you use the friend-andstarter<br />

method, make sure he understands<br />

the ignition switch is not to be touched<br />

without your direction.<br />

qF<br />

' 1<br />

the engine. Some have clips and some Now for the Starter Motor-After redon't.<br />

If yours does, just push the lines moving the converter nuts, disconnect the<br />

out <strong>of</strong> the clips to release them. While battery cables at the battery. Remove the<br />

you're looking up where these lines gousually<br />

on the right side with down-flow<br />

bottom starter bolt first, then the top one<br />

while supporting the front <strong>of</strong> the starter<br />

P*<br />

radiators and left side with cross-flows- with one hand. Lifting a starter out is<br />

make sure the starter-to-battery lead is tricky on unit-body cars equipped with<br />

out <strong>of</strong> its bracket. conventional steering-not rack and<br />

Engine Mounts-If you couldn't reach an pinion. Slide the starter forward, and<br />

engine mount from topside to remove its drop its nose-geared end-between the<br />

bolts, do it now. Remember, once the nut steering linkage and the converter housing.<br />

is <strong>of</strong>f, just slide the bolt out.<br />

If you don't need to remove your starter CI)<br />

Expose the Converter-With an automatic motor for rebuilding, you don't need to<br />

transmission, remove the converter cover disconnect the cable. Just leave it hanging<br />

at the front <strong>of</strong> the engine plate. It's usually there until it is ready to be replaced. Supattached<br />

with two or three bolts.<br />

port it with some wire or rope to take the<br />

Get Power to the Starter-With an auto- load <strong>of</strong>f the cable.<br />

matic transmission, reconnect the battery Finish Unbolting the Bellhousing-Regardground<br />

so you'll have power to the starter. less <strong>of</strong> which transmission you have, the<br />

Now, if you don't possess a remote rest <strong>of</strong> the removal process is pretty much<br />

starter, have a trustworthy friend bump the same. The only job left before lowering Advantage Of a long for disconnecting<br />

exhaust pipes is evident here. A<br />

the engine over to expose each <strong>of</strong> the your car is to remove the remaining bell- shot <strong>of</strong> oil on nuts and studs an<br />

converter-to-flexplate nuts for removal-a h~~sing/converter-housing bolts. After hour or so before you're ready to remove<br />

socket on the front <strong>of</strong> the crank pulley doing this, take one last look underneath them will also help.<br />

works well too. Particularly if you've just to make certain everything is disconremoved<br />

the spark plugs.<br />

nected from the engine.

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