How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizontal bolt pattern. With its gasket in place on the pump, moly on the arm and one bolt in hand and the other in reach, locate the pump in position and secure it by threading the bolts in. Tighten the bolts, then torque them 20-24 ft. Ibs. Carburetor-Carburetors have varied widely since 1968, from the performanceoriented 351C Boss and HO and the 429CJs and SCJs to the current emissionslmileage tuned carburetors. Also, some do and some don't use carburetor spacers. There are so many combinations that being specific would be too complex, however they are generally the same except for hookups for the various emissions-related devices, both on and off the carburetor. There are also considerable differences in carburetor spacers, from those which insulate the carburetor base to those that recirculate exhaust gas back through the induction system. Spacers vary from a thin stainless-steel plate to an aluminum spacer with an EGR (exhaust gas recirculating) valve attached. The order of installation from the carburetor up is gasket, spacer, gasket, then the carburetor. Carburetor spacers don't present any particular problem except for one, and it can be a big problem. The one I'm referring to is the aluminum spacer/EGR valve. The aluminum eventually burns out from the hot exhaust gases, resulting in exhaust noises coming from the carburetor! Check yours closely for signs of burning out, then replace it if it appears to have started. As a result of the burnout problem, this spacer was changed to cast iron as have all the replacement spacers. A new one from your Ford dealer should be cast iron. With the gaskets, spacer and studs on the intake manifold, add the carburetor. Before installing the 4 hold-down nuts, connect the choke-heat tube. Thread the nuts on their studs and tighten each one a little at a time until all are at the correct torque-don't exceed 15 ft.lbs. The nuts are easily stripped and progressively tightening them eliminates the possiblity of breaking a flange off the carburetor. As you can tell by the number of parts laying around, you can install a few more before your engine is in the engine compartment-some will have to be. Let's get on with the actual installation. ~ost-of the remaining parts and components are easier to install just prior to the time your engine is ready to be dropped into place-while the engine is hanging in mid-air. Ford does a landmark business with these aluminum EGR spacer plates. They burn out with great regularity. This one is also plugged up with carbon, so it didn't work anyway. Inspect yours for signs of burning and replace It If It looks bad. With gasket or spacer and gaskets in place, set your carburetor onto intake manifold. Attach choke heat tube to choke before securing carburetor, otherwise you'll have a problem connecting the heat tube. Install choke heater before carburetor. 351C is unique in that two center, right mahifold bolts also retain outboard side of heater plate. This was changed because many attempts were made at removing manifolds with these bolts in place as you can see on page 41. Tighten carburetor nuts with care. Don't exceed 15 ft.lbs.
THRUST UPPER Carburetor Rebuild Due to the general lack of information on distributor rebuilding, I'll show how to determine if yours needs rebuilding, then show you how to do it. 1'11 also touch on rebuilding the Autolite/Motorcraft 2V carburetor. DISTRIBUTOR TYPES Two basic types of distributors are installed in Ford engines: breaker-point and breakerless (solid-state). The difference is in how they produce a spark.The breakerpoint distributor opens and closes a set of breaker or contact points on a breaker plate. The breakerless distributor accomplished the same thing electronically through a magnetic-triggering device and an amplifying module. Otherwise, the two are basically the same. Both are driven at 112 crankshaft speed by a camshaft gear through a shaft which runs in bushingls in the distributor housing. Distributors installed in engines prior to 1970 may or may not use two replaceable bushings. Beginning in 1970, all distributors use the top bushing only and depend on the end of the distributor shaft running in the cylinder block to support the gear end. At the upper end of the distributor shaft a cam operates breaker points, or an armature for triggering the magnetic pickup. The cam or amature is free to rotate on the shaft within limits controlled by centrifugal-advance weights which change spark timing with RPM. Above the cam or armature is a rotor. Tlze same kind is used on both type of distributors. As it rotates, it completes the circuit between the coil and each spark plug in the correct firing order. The distributor baseplate mounts the breaker plate or the magnetic-pickup assembly. Otherwise the two distributor types are the same. All distributors installed on all 351C, 351Ml400 and 4291460 engines have dual-advance. Spark timing is varied by centrifugal-advance weights that rotate the cam or armature and one or .two vacuum diaphragmls rotate the breaker plate or magnetic pickup assembly around the center shaft. One exception is the SLEEVE Solid-state distributor with centrifugaland vacuum-advance components. Other / r SHAFT ASSY. than the solid-state's armature, stator and I pickup-coil assembly versus the cam and breaker-plate assembly of the point-type distributor, the distributor assemblies are basically the same. Drawing courtesy Ford. GROUND SCREW SLEEVE.AND-PLATE ASSY O-RING SEAL 1 A WASHER ADVANCE.PLATE ASSY. ! SECONDARY Checking a distributor the right way-on a distributor test stand. Centrifugal advance is being adjusted by bending the advancestop tab. PIN DRIVEN GEAR BUSHING-HOUSING 'DISTRIBUTOR BASE Small parts used in typical distributor assembly. Be careful when disassembling yours so you don't lose any. Hours can be spent finding replacements.
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HPBooks How to find out what needs
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Introduction This book deals with r
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DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
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A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
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may be causing the problem at this
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ect, particularly if there appears
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To ensure that your hood will fit a
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Radlators can be heavy like this bi
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emove the compressor and have a sys
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ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
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ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
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get on with the physical makeup of
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Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
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When sifting through your local scr
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351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
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I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
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pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
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PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
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4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
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Tearing down your engine is the fir
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Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
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You'll need a puller to remove the
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cam sprocket and chain, and then th
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them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
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If you are removing your cam bearin
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5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
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After you've cleaned out the head-
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0.020 inch, the next available over
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Checking deck-surface flatness with
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Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
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If you don't have a snap gage, here
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Using grease and some machined roun
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while your micrometer is handy, do
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When measuring piston diameter, do
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Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
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Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75: New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79: anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83: The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85: will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91: Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93: This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95: .,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97: If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99: BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101: Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105: Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107: Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109: A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111: metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113: Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115: Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117: Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119: Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121: lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 126 and 127: LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129: - 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131: I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133: - Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135: housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137: Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139: You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141: Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143: spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145: 4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147: _- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149: TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151: P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153: If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155: - R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157: starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159: After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161: Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162: HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
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