How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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When measuring piston diameter, do it level Scuff marks on piston skirt reveal engine Wear pattern on a piston skirt indicates connecting-rod alignment. If the pattern is symmetrical about the centerline of the skirt, rod alignment can be considered OK. ow ever, a skewed pattern like this shows with the wrist-pin and 90" to pin axis. Width was severely overheated. Further use will the rod is bent or twisted and should be measured across skirt bottom should be overstress and possibly collapse skirt. straightened. A checking fixture is required slightly larger-about 0.0005 inch. Scrap any piston that looks like this. for this. I I First two rods, bent and twisted as shown in these exaggerated drawlngs, cause uneven piston-skirt wear by tilting piston in bore. First rod, with its wrist-pin axis bent out of parallel with its bearing journal, tilts its piston mostly at T DC and BDC. Twisted connecting rod tilts progressively toward the mid-point of stroke. Connecting rod bent like third one shown doesn't affect skirt wear or engine performance. Consequently it can be reinstalled unless the bend is obvious to the eye, or unless it's to be used In an all-out high-performance application. heated at least once. If a piston with these symptons were to be reinstalled, you'd have a very noisy engine which may eventually experience total pistonskirt failure. Piston scuffing or scoring occurs when an 'engne overheats. The piston tries to expand more than its bore. If the engine is heated too much, the piston skirt squeezes out the oil cushion between the piston and the bore. Not only does the skirt make metalrto-metal contact with the bore, it is overstressed so both scuffing or scoring and skirt collapse occur. After the piston returns to its normal temperature, its bore clearance will be excessive and the engine will be noisy, particularly during warmup. Piston-Pin Bore Wear-Measuring pin-bore wear requires disassembling the piston and rod. A practical and easier way of doing this is to feel for wear. The normal pin clearance is 0.0003 inch and should not exceed 0.0008 inch. Excess clearance will show up when you try wiggling or rotating the connecting rod 90' to its normal direction of rotation. First, clean each piston with solvent to remove any oil between the piston and the pin. Oil takes up clearance and sufficiently cushions movement to give the impression the piston-to-rod relationship is OK, even when it's not. Now, with the piston and rod at room temperature, if you feel movement as you try wiggling the rod sideways, the pin bore is worn beyond the limit and the piston should be replaced. Otherwise it's OK. After you use this method to check for pin-bore wear, make sure you lubricate the pin and its bore by squirting oil into the oil groove in the piston-pin bore while working the rod back-and-forth. If you don't you'll run the risk of ruining some pistons during initial engine startup. The pin and its bore are highly loaded. Consequently, if they are not lubricated when you first fire your engine, the aluminum will gall causing the piston to seize .on the pin. Lubricate the pins now so you don't overlook itJater on. Clean the Ring G~OOV~S First-l saved this job till last because cleaning the ring grooves is a tough job and you have to do it to do a complete job of checking the grooves. So, if some or all of your pistons didn't pass your previous tests, you've avoided unnecessary work. You'll need something to clean the ring grooves without damaging them. A special tool for doing just this is appropriately called a ring-groove cleaner. Prices range from $10 to $30, depending on tool quality. A ring-groove cleaner fits around the piston and pilots in the groove it is cleaning. An adjustable scraper fits in the groove and cleans carbon and sludge deposits from the groove as the cl'eaner is rotated around the piston. If it bothers you to make a purchase like this for a "one-time" use, use the broken end of a piston ring to clean the grooves. It takes more time and you'll have to be careful, but it can be done just as well. Grind or
file the end of the ring like the one shown in the accompanying photo. Wrap tape around the ring so you don't cut your fingers on it. Be careful, no matter which method you use. Caution: Don't remove any metal or scratch the grooves, just get rid of the deposits. Be especially careful to avoid removing metal from the side surfaces of the grooves as they are the surfaces against which the rings seal. Measuring Ring-Groove Width-Again, chances are if a ring groove is worn or damaged, it will be the top one because of its higher loads. So start with it. This doesn't mean you don't have to check the others if the top one is OK. Unforeseen things can happen, check them Checking pin-bore wear by twisting con- Look at the clean grooves first. Any wear necting rod in direction A, then trying to will have formed a ster, on the lower por- rotate it in direction 6, 90" to its normal tion of the ring land.-~he height of'the direction of rotation. If you can feel movement at pin when holding piston like this, step up as ring side dn-bore wear is excessive and the &ton ~ - - - - - - - - - - clearance and the length of the step pro- ;hould be redaced. jecting from the back-wall of the groove represents the piston ring's back-clearance. Side clearance between one side of the ring and a ring land is measured with a ring and feeler gage with the ring held against the opposite ring land. If it is too much, proper ring-to-piston sealing is not possible, plus the additional action of the ring moving up and down in the groove will accelerate wear and increase the possibility of breaking a ring land. Start cleaning your pistons by removing carbon from their tops. A dull screwdriver is good for removing big chunks and a wire brush does cleanup work, but don't touch piston sides with the brush. A piston can easily be ruined by careless wire brushing. Compression-Ring Grooves-Compressionring grooves are nominally 0.080-inch wide, new rings have a minimum 0.077- inch width and a maximum ring side clearance of 0.006 inch. You are presented with a dilemma because the 0.006-inch .+ side clearance should be measured with a TWO tools which accomplish the same thing-an official ring-groove cleaner or a broken piston ring ground like this. Ring is harder to use, but a lot cheaper. Regardless of how you new ring in the groove. You don't want clean your ring grooves, be careful not to remove any metal. to lay out money for a new set of rings for checking your old pistons until you've checked them and have given them the new ring. In formula form, this looks using this method. Make sure the ring is OK. One way around this is to use an old like: not up on the step when checking side ring for checking. The problem is, rings Maximum checking clearance clearance. wear too, and more than actual side clearance will show up if ring wear is not = 0.006 + (0.077- 0.076) or: accounted for. J~~~ mike the old ring and Maximum checking clearance in inches subtract this amount from 0.077 inch, = 0.006 + (0.077- checking-ring the minimum width of a new compres- width in inches) sion ring. Add this figure to 0.006 inch When checking side clearance, insert for the maximum allowable checking the edge of the ring in the groove with clearance. I'll use the term checking the checking-clearance feeler gage alongclearance rather than side clearance be- side between the ring and the lower side cause the gage thickness may not be the of the ring groove. Slide the gage and actual side clearance with a new ring. If ring completely around the groove to the old ring measured 0.076 inch, it is check for any clearance variations and to 0.001-inch undersize. Consequently, verify the land is free from distortion or maximum checking clearance is now uneven wear. The gage should slide the 0.007 inch but it will yield a 0.006-inch full circumference without binding. side clearance with a minimum-width Check both compression-ring grooves Oil-Ring Grooves-Nominal oil-ring grooves are 0.1885-inch wide. The real test is a snug fitting oil ring. Here's that old problem again. You don't yet have a new set of rings to do the checking. Fortunately oil rings and their grooves are well lubricated and aren't heavily loaded like the compression rings, particularly the top one. Consequently, their wear is minimal, so if they pass your visual inspection you can assume they are all right. However, to be positive, measure them. To do this, stack two old compression rings together and mike their combined thickness.
Page 1 and 2:
HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3:
Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7:
DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9:
A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11:
may be causing the problem at this
Page 12 and 13:
ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15:
To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17:
Radlators can be heavy like this bi
Page 18 and 19: emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 20 and 21: ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
Page 22 and 23: ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25: get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27: Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29: When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31: 351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
Page 32 and 33: I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35: pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37: PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39: 4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41: Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43: Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45: You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47: cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49: them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51: If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53: 5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55: After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57: 0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59: Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61: Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63: If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65: Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67: while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 70 and 71: Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73: Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75: New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79: anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83: The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85: will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91: Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93: This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95: .,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97: If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99: BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101: Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105: Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107: Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109: A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111: metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113: Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115: Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117: Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119:
Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121:
lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125:
12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127:
LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129:
- 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131:
I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133:
- Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135:
housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137:
Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139:
You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141:
Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143:
spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145:
4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147:
_- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149:
TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151:
P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153:
If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155:
- R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157:
starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159:
After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161:
Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
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