How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

from losing it, put it back on the pushrod
along with the clip. There may also be a
wave washer. Put it back too.
The equalizer bar fits between the
engine and the frame or body. It pivots
on a bracket attached to the frame or
body with 2 bolts. After removing these
bolts and the bracket, the equalizer bar
will be free to pull off its pivot at the engine,
but you'll have to finish this job
from underneath. This can usually be
accomplished without raising your car by
simply reaching the bellcrank-to-release
lever under the car. Unhook it and the
release-lever pushrod will swing free. You
can now remove the bellcrank and pushrod
together by sliding the bellcrank off
its engine pivot.
Disconnect the Fuel Pump-Before breaking
any fuel-line connections, make sure
there are no open flames close by such as
a gas water-heater pilot light. Disconnect
the fuel-tank-to-fuel-pump line at the fuel
pump. To prevent siphoning and the consequent
fire hazard created by spilled gasoline,
push a 318-in. diameter bolt into
the end of the hose. Make sure the bolt
isn't fully threaded. Otherwise fuel will
leak out around the threads. It should
have at least 112 in. of unthreaded shank.
Get What You Can From the Top-If the
exhaust-manifold-to-exhaust-pipe bolts
are accessible from above, particularly the
top ones, get them now. They are definitely
easier to remove this way unless you
have a 12-inch extension in your socket
set. Some penetrating oil on the threads
about an hour prior to removing the nuts
and the use of a box-end wrench help
avoid damaged knuckles. An open-end
wrench slips off too easily and there may
not be enough room for a ratchet handle.
Engine Mounts-Ford did us a big favor
by designing the engine mounts for easy
removal and installation. Each mount is a
two-piece assembly. One half stays with
the engine and the other with the frame
or bod;. The two halves are held together
with a through-bolt and nut. Depending
on your vehicle, you'll have to judge now
whether it will be easier to remove the
bolts now, or from underneath after
you've raised your car. One hitch is-if
you have a 351M/400 or 460 in a truck,
you'll have to remove the insulator or
rubber portion of the engine mount.
You'll also have to remove the vertical
bolts on the frame-side of the insulators.
This has to be done because the engine
can't be lifted high enough to clear the
engine mounts and disengage from the
transmission due to interference at the
firewall. This is the most difficult por-
l NSU LATOR
Typical two- and three-piece engine mounts. Both use single through-bolt. If yours is
equipped with a sheet-metal heat shield, make sure you don't lose it. Direct exhaustmanifold
heat will quickly destroy the rubber. Drawing courtesy Ford.
tion of removing and replacing these
engines in trucks. The engine will have to
be raised as high as possible, plus a little
more, to get the insulators out from
between the engine-mount brackets.
To undo the bolt and nut, place a boxend
wrench on the nut and use a socket
and ratchet with an extension on the bolt.
As you start to unthread the bolt from
the nut, the box-end wrench will rotate
and stop against the engine or body or
frame so you won't have to hold it. When
the nut is off, slide the bolt forward out
of its mount. I find it easier to get to the
left mount from below. You'll have to
assess your particular situation.
Jack Your Car Up-It's time to get your
car in the air. A truck usually has enough
ground clearance to work under without
having to raise it. Not so with a car. A
hydraulic floor jack and two jack stands
are great to have at this point. You'll only
have to raise the front of your car for removing
the engine. To do this, place the
jack under the number-two crossmember.
Frame cars have a substantial crossmember
to which the front-suspension lower control
arms attach. Unit-body cars have a
less-substantial-looking tubular crossmember
which bolts to the body side rails. It
is all right to use this crossmember to
raise the car, but be careful because it's
easy to get the jack pad under the steering
linkage, possibly bending the center link.
A 2"x4" wood block between the jack
and crossmember helps.
With the car in the air, place the jack
stands under the frame or body of the car
rather than under the front suspension. I
prefer this method because it's more positive.
As you can see from the photo, I
placed jack stands under the front frame
torque boxes. For unit body cars, the
sway-bar brackets are a good place. Whatever
you use to support your car, make
sure it's substantial and that you block the
rear tires to keep your car from rolling.
Don't use bricks, cement blocks or
cinder blocks as stands or supports. These
materials work fine with evenly distributed
loads, but they will crack and crumble
when subjected to high-point loading as
when supporting a car. If I seem to be
dwelling on this subject too much, it's
because when a car falls, the result is
often fatal. Be careful!
Now's the time to get your trusty
creeper into service-or a big sheet of
cardboard works well, particularly if
you're not on hard pavement. A creeper
doesn't roll in dirt or gravel.
Finish the Clutch Linkage-With the car
in the air, complete those partially finished
jobs you started from the top. If you
haven't already done so, the equali~er bar
can be removed by disconnecting the
retaining spring which fits between the
release lever and the equalizer bar. This
will free the equalizer bar so you can slip
it off its engine pivot.
Exhaust System-Finish disconnecting the
exhaust system from the manifolds. Here's
where the long extension for your socket
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