How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly honed block. The block must receive a final cleaning to remove the abrasive grit and metal cuttings. A scrub brush used vigorously with laundry detergent and hot water works well. After the bores are cleaned and rinsed, they should be dried and oiled immediately. Consequently, even though your engine was hot-tanked by the machinist, enlist the use of a stiff-bristle brush, laundry detergent and warm water to satisfy yourself that the engine is clean. This, combined with a generous amount of elbow grease, will give you a superclean block. Finish by wiping the bores with a white paper towel. It should stay clean and white if you've gotten the bores clean. If not, clean them again. After you've finished the scrubbing and rinsing, don't let the block air-dry. The newly machined surfaces will rust very quickly. If you have compressed air, use it to blow-dry the block. It's best because you don't have to touch the block and the compressed air will blow water out of every little corner. The next best thing to use is paper towelsnot cloth rags or towels. They spread lint that won't dissolve like that from a paper towel. Immediately after you've gotten the block dried off, get your spray can of oil and coat all the machined surfaces. CRC and WD-40 displace water rather than trapping it. This will protect the block against rust, but will also turn it into a big dust collector. Consequently, you'll have to keep it covered. Now that you're finished with the block until assembly time, store it by standing it on its rear face. Cover it with a plastic trash bag until you're ready for final engine assembly. component. As a result, it's rare that a crankshaft cannot be reused for a rebuild. They very rarely ever wear to the point of having to be replaced. What usually happens is the journals are damaged from a lack of lubrication, but mostly from very dirty oil. Usually this damage can be repaired. Even dirty oil usually doesn't change a crank's journals, but if the dirt particles get too big and numerous, it will. The one thing that can render a crankshaft useless is mechanical damage caused when another component in an engine breaks-such as a rod bolt:df an engine isn't shut off immediately or if this occurs at high RPM, the crank and many other expensive components will have to be replaced also. WORN JOURNAL - - - - - - - 1 -+ Main and Connecting-Rod Journals-The most important crankshaft-inspection job is to make sure the bearing journals are round, their diameters don't vary over their length and their surfaces are free of imperfections such as cracks. A cracked crankshaft must be replaced. All the engines covered in this book have cast-iron cranks, however the high-performance crankshafts are stronger due to a higher nodularity content. So, if you've found a crack, consider yourself lucky. A crack in a cast-iron crankshaft is followed very quickly by a break. So don't even think about trying to save your crankshaft if it is cracked. The best way of checking for cracks is by Magnafluxing, the next is by dye testing and the last is by visual inspection. Check with your local parts store or engine machine shop about having your crank crack-tested, preferably by Magnaflux. The cost is minimal. Remembera broken crank will destroy your engine. If a bearing journal is oval- or eggshaped it is said to be out-of-round. This condition is more prevalent with rod journals than with main-bearing journals. If a bearing journal's diameter varies over its length, it is tapered. This is like the taper of a cylinder bore except it's an outside diameter. Finally, the journals should be free from any burrs, nicks or scoring that could damage bearings. Pay special attention to the edge of each oil hole in the rod and main journals. Round these edges with a small round file if you find any sharp ones. Sharp edges protruding above the normal bearing-journal surface can cut grooves in the bearing -- D -- I I CRANKSHAFT UNWORN JOURNAL The crankshaft is the main moving part in any engine. Most of the other TAPERED JOURNAL OUT-OF-ROUND JOURNAL parts turn the it and Bearing journals wear two ways, tapered or varying diameter over their length and out-oflubricate it. Because of its importance, a round or oval in shape. Connecting-rod journals tend to wear out-of-round due to the way crankshaft is a very tough, high-quality they are loaded. BLOCK RECONDITIONING 59
Deep groove in this connecting-rod journal is from foreign material in the oil. A good polish job will make crank suitable for reuse, however more grooving would require regrinding or replacing crankshaft. Measuring bearing journals. Front rod journal is being measured for "out-of-roundness." Record your measurements so you'll be able to compare figures. inserts and wreck the bearing, spoiling your rebuild. Surface Finish-Look at surface finish first. Any rough bearing journal must be refinished or reground-regardless of taper or out-of-roundness. About the only way of determining if your crankshaft journals are smooth is to run your fingernails over them. If a journal looks rough and you can feel it, new bearings would be worn quickly by this roughness. A regrinding job is then in order. A normal 0.010-inch regrind job will hopefully take care of the journal surfaces and any normal wear irregularities. I say surfaces because if one journal has to be ground, all rod or main journals should be ground the same amount.You don't want one odd-size bearing because bearings are sold in sets.The additional cost of machining all the main or rod journals is slight because the major expense is the initial setup cost. Therefore, if 0.010 inch is removed from the standard-size bearing journals, 0.01 0-inch undersize bearings will be required. Undersize refers to the crankshaft-journal diameter.The amount of undersize is the difference between the journal diameter after being reground and the nominal, or average specified standard-size journal diameter. Example: if the nominal specified diameter for main journals is 2.7488 inches and they are reground to 2.7388 inches, the crank i's 0.010-inch undersize on the mains. While you're checking bearingjournals, look carefully at the thrust faces on the number-three, main-bearing journal. This is particularly important if your engine is backed by a standard transmission. When a clutch is disengaged, the release bearing pushes forward on the crankshaft via the pressure plate. This load is supported by the crankshaft's rear thrust surface, so if the pressure plate had an excessively high load or your clutch was incorrectly adjusted, the thrust surface may be damaged. An indication as to whether you'll have thrust surface trouble is the condition of your pressure-plate release levers. If they are excessively worn from the release bearing, then be particularly attentive. Measure between the thrust faces. You'll need a snap gauge and a micrometer or an old or new bearing insert, feeler gauges, and a I -2-inch micrometer. Minimum width is 1 .I24 inches; maximum is 1.126 inches. If the maximum is exceeded, you'll have to replace your crankshaft or have it reconditioned. Check the thrust-face width in several places. Other dimensions and tolerances for checking your crankshaft are in the table. out-of-~ound-T: check for out-of-round or tapered journals, you need a 2-3-inch outside micrometer and an understanding of what you're looking for. If a journal is round, it will be described by a diameter you can read directly from your micrometer at any location around the journal. If it is out-of-round, you will be looking CRANKSHAFT SPEC1 FICATIONS Engine 351C 351 MI400 4291460 460 Police 429CJ SCJ Journal Diameter (in.) Main Conn. Rod 2.7488+0.0004 2.99980.0004 2.9888f0.0004 2.98880.0004 2.9888+0.0004 2.9888+0.0004 2.3107+0.0004 2.31 07f 0.0004 2.4996f0.0004 2.4996+0.0004 2.4996+0.0004 2.4996+0.0004 Stroke (in.) 3.50 3.5074.00 3.5913.85 3.85 3.59 3.59 Runout (in.) 0.004 0.005 0.005 0.005 0.004 0.004 Taper inin. 0.0003 0.0006 0.0006 0.0006 0.0003 0.0003 Ou t-of - Round (in.) 0.0004 0.0006 0.0006 0.0006 0.0004 0.0004 Thrust-face Width (in.) 1 .I 25+0.001 1.125f 0.001 1.125f0.001 1.125f0.001 1.125+0.001 1 .I 25f0.001
Page 1 and 2:
HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3:
Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7:
DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9:
A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11: may be causing the problem at this
Page 12 and 13: ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15: To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17: Radlators can be heavy like this bi
Page 18 and 19: emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 20 and 21: ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
Page 22 and 23: ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25: get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27: Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29: When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31: 351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
Page 32 and 33: I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35: pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37: PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39: 4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41: Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43: Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45: You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47: cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49: them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51: If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53: 5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55: After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57: 0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59: Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 62 and 63: If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65: Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67: while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69: When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71: Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73: Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75: New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79: anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83: The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85: will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91: Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93: This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95: .,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97: If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99: BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101: Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105: Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107: Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109: A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111:
metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113:
Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115:
Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117:
Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119:
Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121:
lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125:
12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127:
LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129:
- 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131:
I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133:
- Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135:
housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137:
Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139:
You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141:
Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143:
spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145:
4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147:
_- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149:
TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151:
P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153:
If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155:
- R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157:
starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159:
After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161:
Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
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