How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WITH STATOR I EACH 112-TOOTH ERROR IS EQUAL TO 7-314 ENGINE DEGREES TIMING ERROR ARMATURE Statically timing the distributor. With crank on 10" BTDC, rotate housing clockwise so rotor lines up with the number-1 mark and points just begin to open. Statically time a solid-state distributor by rotating the housing so one armature vane lines up with the magnetic pickup as shown in the circle. Rotor should also be located midway between two magnetic-pickup rivets. Drawing courtesy Ford. utor gear engage its drive gear on the camshaft, the distributor shaft must also engage the oil-pump drive shaft. The chance of these two engaging on the first try is highly unlikely. Once the distributor gears have partially engaged and the distributor has ceased to go into the block any farther, bump the engine over. This will rotate the distributor shaft so it will eventually line up with the oil-pump shaft. You won't have to rotate the crank very far. Apply a slight downward pressure on the distributor until it engages, then bring the crank back to TDC and check the rotor position. With the distributor in place, you can come fairly close to correct timing before the engine is run by timing it statically. To do this, turn the crank so the pointer and crank damper indicate the correct distributor advance-10" BTDC for example. Install the distributor hold-down clamp and bolt loosely, and then rotate the distributor housing clockwise, against the rotation of the rotor, until the points just begin to open. Spark occurs the instant the points break contact. Secure the hold-down clamp. Later, when you get the engine running, check the timing with a timing light and readjust as necessary. If your distributor is the later breaker- less type, a similar method works. However, rather than having the points to go by, align one of the armature spokes as shown in the sketch. Looking down on the distributor, the rotor should be between the two rivets which secure the magnetic pickup when it is in the number-1 firing position. ACCESSORY-DRIVE INSTALLATION The difficulty of installing engine accessories depends simply on how many your engine has. It can be a five-minute job or the toughest part of the engine installation. I'll treat the installation assuming your car or truck is loaded and you can skip those sections that don't apply. A/C Compressor and Power-Steering Pump-If an engine is equipped with both power steering and A/C accessories, they have to be installed together because they share common mountings. Hang-on-A/C units are a different matter-they will be separate. The A/C compressor should be hanging right where you left it-on the left-front fender apron. If you removed it, install its bottom mounting bracket. Make sure you use the correct mounting bolts if you have the two-piston-type compressor. They are the short 3/8-16 bolts with integral serrated-face washers. Ford terms these UBS bolts, meaning "uniform bearing strength." Make sure you use the correct length bolts and install them carefully to check fof "bottoming." The very short ones are used to mount the adjustable-idler bracket to the compressor bracket. Torque these bolts 20-30 ft.lbs. If they aren't already there, install the A/C-compressor and power-steering-pump mounting studs in the left cylinder head. loosely install the A/C compressor and its bracket on the studs, then install the power steering over the A/C bracket. There'll also be a stud at the water pump for mounting the inboard end of the power-steering-pump bracket. Run some nuts on the studs to hold everything in place. If you have a back-side idler for the A/C belt, it mounts on top of the A/C compressor and power-steering pump brackets. Tighten everything securely once you get all the brackets fitted and figured out. Turn your attention to the top A/Ccompressor bracket. It will fit between the compressor and the water pump. It not only helps support the compressor,
SUPPORT BRACKET I Typical A/C-compressor and power-steering pump installations. You'll find some sixcylinder compressors mounted on top rather than below as in the case with this 429/460 installation. Drawings courtesy Ford. it is also used to mount the adjustable idler pulley for the compressor drive belt and the high-pressure A/C line. powersteering hose and the retaining clip for the compressor-clutch wire depending on your vehicle. UBS bolts are also used here. two at the top and one in the backside of the compressor. Torque the bolts 20-30 ft.lbs. while making certain they are short , enough so they pull down on the bracket rather than bottoming in the compressor housing. If it's not already on the bracket, install the idler pulley, but don't tighten it yet. Rotary compressors have six pistons operated by a swash. or wobble plate. They mount similar to the two-piston type in that they share brackets with the power-steering pump. Other than having totally different bracketry, the major difference is that the six-piston compressor may be mounted above or below the power-steering pump, depending on its application, whereas the two-cylinder compressor will always be on the top. A/C Compressor Wiring-To finish the accessory installation job on the left side of your engine, connect the compressor's magnetic-clutch lead. Do it now because it's easy to forget. Air-Injection Pump and Alternator-If your engine is equipped with an alternator and an air pump, they'll use common brackets. Because you may already have the alternator loosely mounted, all that's left is the air pump if your engine is so equipped. Just as you did with the A/C and power steering, mount them loosely until you're sure you have all the spacers, bolts and bracketsin their right locations, then you can tighten them up. Route the air-pump hoses and mount the bypass valve. Make sure the air hoses are in good condition by squeering them. If cracks appear. they are in bad shape and should be replaced. I Spark Plug and Coil Leads-Turn your attention back to the ignition system. Make sure the rotor is pushed all the way down on the distributor shaft. Install the distributor cap and secure it with the two spring clips. If they're not already in place, install the little plastic ignition-wire retaining clips. Starting with socket 1 on the distributor cap, route the wires in the engine firing order as you go around the cap counter-clockwise, point the wires in the general direction of their valve-cover clips. Remember, the firing orders are: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 for the 351C and 351M/ 400 and 1-54-2-6-3-7-8 for the 4291460. The order for the wires in the right valvecover clip is 1-2-3-4 from front to back.
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HPBooks How to find out what needs
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Introduction This book deals with r
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DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
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A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
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may be causing the problem at this
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ect, particularly if there appears
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To ensure that your hood will fit a
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Radlators can be heavy like this bi
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emove the compressor and have a sys
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ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
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ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
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get on with the physical makeup of
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Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
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When sifting through your local scr
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351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
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I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
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pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
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PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
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4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
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Tearing down your engine is the fir
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Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
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You'll need a puller to remove the
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cam sprocket and chain, and then th
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them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
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If you are removing your cam bearin
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5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
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After you've cleaned out the head-
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0.020 inch, the next available over
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Checking deck-surface flatness with
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Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
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If you don't have a snap gage, here
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Using grease and some machined roun
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while your micrometer is handy, do
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When measuring piston diameter, do
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Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
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Five- and four-plate timing chains
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New oil-pump drive shaft above and
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CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
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anything from a cardboard box to a
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CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
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The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
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will be sealed the first time the v
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or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
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Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
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Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
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This is the part of engine building
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.,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
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If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99: BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101: Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105: Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107: Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109: A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111: metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113: Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115: Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117: Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119: Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121: lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125: 12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127: LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129: - 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131: I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133: - Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135: housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137: Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139: You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141: Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143: spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145: 4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147: _- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 150 and 151: P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153: If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155: - R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157: starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159: After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161: Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162: HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
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