How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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Tearing down your engine is the first rebuilding step. What you find through close inspection of your engine's components will "tell" you which parts have to be replaced, or to what extent they must be reconditioned. It also gives you a first-hand look at how engine servicing and operation affected internal wear. Don't look at the engine teardown phase as merely involving getting your engine apart. REMOVE EXTERNAL HARDWARE While your engine is still "on the hook" after being lifted out of its engine compartment, remove as much external hardware as possible before setting it down. It will be more convenient to do it now, rather than after it's on the floor or a workbench. Another tip: Use small boxes or cans for storing fasteners and small parts. Store them in groups according to their function. For example, keep the exhaust-manifold bolts in the same container rather than in different boxes containing some oil-pan, valvecover bolts and the like. Mark the Distributor-Put a scribe mark or scratch on the distributor housing and one on the engine block to match it. Or simply remember the vacuum diaphragm points approximately straight ahead in the installed position. This provides a reference for positioning the distributor when you reinstall it. Disconnect the spark-plug and coil wires, then remove the distributor cap with the wires. Remove the distributor after removing the hold-down clamp and disconnecting the vacuum-advance hosels. Fuel Pump-Remove the fuel-pump-tocarburetor line by disconnecting the rubber hose at the carburetor fuel filter, then unthreading the line's tube nut from the pump. The pump is secured to the side of the 351C, 351M and 400 engines' integral front cover by a bolt at the top and a stud and nut at the bottom. Remove the bolt first, then the nut to remove the pump. On 4291460 engines the pump is secured to the aluminum front cover by two bolts at the pump's sides. Carburetor-Disconnect the heat tube from the automatic choke plus any additional wiring-harness and vacuum-tube connections that may still run to the carburetor. Label everything so you can 429/460 is a flexible engine as evidenced by its use in luxury and hlgh-performance cars as well as trucks. Photo courtesy Ford. get it back correctly during reassembly. Remove the 4 carburetor mounting nuts and lift the carburetor and its spacer off the intake manifold. Water Pump-Remove the water-pump mounting bolts. On 4291460 engines, loosen one of the thermostat-bypass hose clamps. Finish removing the bypass hose after the pump is out of the way. Pry the pump loose from the timing chain cover with a screwdriver, but watch out for the flood! Coolant will pour out of the block when the seal is broken. Engine Mounts-Your engine mounts should still be bolted to the block. Remove them, but keep track of the bolts by threading them back into the block and tightening them. Pressure Plate and Disc-Before removing your clutch, if your car has a standard transmission, mark the pressure-plate cover and flywheel with a center punch so they can be replaced in the same relative position. When removing the clutch, loosen the 6 mounting bolts a couple of turns at a time in rotation. This will prevent the pressure-plate cover from being twisted as a result of being unevenly loaded. When the pressure plate appears to be loose, you can remove the bolts. Be prepared to handle about 25 pounds of pressure plate and disc. One final point, if your clutch or a portion of it can be reused, avoid getting any grease on the friction surfaces, particularly the disc. One greasy fingerprint can make a clutch chatter and grab. Flywheel or Flexplate-Your engine has a flywheel if it was mated to a standard transmission and a flexplate in the case of an automatic. There's no big difference about removing either except the flywheel weighs about 30 pounds more, so be ready to handle some weight. When loosening the attaching bolts, you will probably need something to keep the crankshaft from turning. A friend with a wrench on 'the crankshaft-damper bolt is good for holding the crankshaft. Production history of your engine is on an aluminum tag bolted to the front of your engine, or a decal on the front of the righthand valve cover. Information includes engine displacement, production date, and change level. Don't lose or destroy either1
Drain Oil and Coolant-If you haven't drained the crankcase oil and coolant from the block, do it now. It's the last chance you'll have to do it without creating a mess. As far as the coolant remaining in the block, the easiest way of draining it is to knock out the freeze plugs, or speaking more accurately, core plugs. Most of the coolant will run out if you knock out the lowest plug on each side of the engine. Use a hammer and - punch to drive'the plug info the block. Watch out for the coolant because it'll e* come pouring out. To remove a plug from the block once it is knocked in, pry it out with Channel-lock-type pliers. GETTING INSIDE THE ENGINE Now's the time to prepare to open up the "patient." Find a suitable place to work and set the engine down. A strong workbench with a work surface about 30 inches off the floor is ideal. However, if you're one of the few who own an engine stand, by all means use it. Don't feel slighted if you don't have one. Professional rebuilders usually use benches. Exhaust Manifolds-Your engine should have a sheet-metal duct on the right exhaust manifold for heating carburetor inlet air. It'll have to come off before you attempt to remove the manifold. You may also have lifting lugs attached to both heads with the manifolds. Remove them while you're loosening the manifolds, then remove the manifolds. INTAKE MANIFOLD First remove the valve covers. With them out of the way you'll have better access to the intake manifold. Covers stuck to the heads can be popped loose by prying under their edges-with a screwdriver after removing the attaching bolts. Work around the cover to minimize bending the flange. With the covers off, you have your first look at the inside of your engine. After removing the intake-manifold bolts, you'll quickly discover the valve covers were an easy touch compared with the manifold. It will be stuck to both cylinder heads and the top of the cylinder block. Wedge a screwdriver between one of the corners of the manifold and a cylinder head. Once the manifold breaks loose, lift it off-it's heavy! The valve lifters and pushrods will now be exposed. REMOVING THE CYLINDER HEADS Rocker Arms and Pushrods-Now you are about to zero in on the real serious stuff. Loosen the rocker-arm nuts or bolts so the rockers can be rotated to the side, freeing the pushrods so they can be Start your engine teardown by removing external hardware. Distributor, fuel pump, carburetor and water pump are being removed here. .t lifted out. As you remove the rocker arms and their fulcrums, or pivots, slip them over a wire so the mating rockers and fulcrums stay together in pairs. If they are mixed up, you can end up with scored rockers and fulcrums when the engine is run. Again, the simplest way of keeping the rockers and fulcrums together is to string them on a wire starting with cylinder 1 and proceeding to 8 in order of removal. Tie the ends of the wire together and they'll keep until you're ready for them. Unbolting the Heads-Each head is secured with 10 bolts-count them. Five are evenly spaced along the bottom of the head and 5 more are in with the valves and springs. They are hidden from view when the valve cover is in place. I may be insulting your intelligence by suggesting you make sure all the head bolts are removed before you try breaking the blocked up on the floor. Be careful when doing this so you don't roll your engine over-the bolts are tight.
Page 1 and 2: HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3: Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7: DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9: A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11: may be causing the problem at this
Page 12 and 13: ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15: To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17: Radlators can be heavy like this bi
Page 18 and 19: emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 20 and 21: ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
Page 22 and 23: ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25: get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27: Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29: When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31: 351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
Page 32 and 33: I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35: pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37: PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39: 4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 42 and 43: Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45: You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47: cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49: them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51: If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53: 5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55: After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57: 0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59: Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61: Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63: If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65: Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67: while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69: When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71: Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73: Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75: New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79: anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83: The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85: will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91:
Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93:
This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95:
.,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97:
If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99:
BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101:
Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105:
Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107:
Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109:
A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111:
metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113:
Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115:
Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117:
Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119:
Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121:
lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125:
12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127:
LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129:
- 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131:
I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133:
- Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135:
housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137:
Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139:
You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141:
Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143:
spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145:
4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147:
_- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149:
TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151:
P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153:
If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155:
- R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157:
starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159:
After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161:
Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
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