How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

More documents

Recommendations

Info

DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "instant overhaul" solution down the carburetor. This stuff really works, loosening the carbon which then causes these problems. Don't try the "cure-all" approach to rid your engine of carbon. Use the methods I discuss in the block and cylinder-head reconditioning chapter. Also, carbon is an effect rather than a cause. It results from an excessively rich fuel mixture, oil getting into the combustion chamber past the piston or intake-valve stem, very slow driving or idling for extended periods. If carbonbuildup causes are cured, the deposits gradually burn away, negating any need to tear your engine down to remove the deposits mechanically. DIAGNOSIS Now that I've discussed the types of internal problems you may encounter with your engine and how each may affect its operation, let's look at how to diagnose these problems without tearing your engine -down. On the other hand, your engine may not have any specific problems, but you do want to determine if it's time to rebuild. Internal Noises-Perhaps your engine has noises of impending disaster coming from its innards. They may or may not be accompanied by an increase in fuel or oil consumption or a reduction in power. Generally, if the noise is at engine speedonce for every revolution of the crank-the problem is in the bottom end. Causes are a broken piston ring, worn connecting-rod bearing or a worn piston-pin bore A noise at half engine speed or camshaft speed, is probably in the valve train, with one exception. Piston slap occurs only on the power stroke, consequently it is also at half speed. If the noise is coming from the valve train, it could be due to excessive lash or clearance in the valve train caused by a collapsed hydraulic lifter, too much valve clearance or a bent pushrod. To help in determining the speed of the noise, hook up your timing light and watch the light whle listening to your engine. If the light flashes in time with the noise, it's at half engine speed. To assist in listening to what's going on inside your engine, use a long screwdriver and press its tip against the block or cylinder head close to the area where you suspect the noise to be coming from. Press your head, or skull just below your ear against the handle. This will amplify engine noises. Just make sure you place the screwdriver against a solid part of the engine to get the best noise transmittal. Don't put the end of the screwdriver against the valve cover when listening to Noise-related engine problems can be located with an automotive stethoscope. You must be able to distinguish between normal engine noises and those which are not. valve-train noises. Put it against the head or a valve-cover bolt. The cork gasket between the cover and the head and the large air space under the valve cover muffles much of the noise. What should the different noises sound like Let's start with the bottom end. A broken piston ring makes a chattering or rattling noise which is more prevalent during acceleration. A dull or hollow sound is usually caused by piston slap, or the piston wobbling and slapping against the side of its bore due to excess clearanc,e between the piston and bore. A collapsed piston skirt causes a similar, but louder noise. Slap resulting from excess clearance will be loudest when the engine is cold. It decreases as the engine warms up and the piston grows to reduce piston-to-bore clearance. You can check for piston slap by retarding the spark. Loosen your distributors's hold-down bolt and rotate it counterclockwise about 5 degrees. This will retard the spark and should reduce any noise due to piston slap. Use your timing light to reset your timing after you've made this check. A light knochng or pounding noise that's not related to detonation or preig-, nition is probably excess connecting-rodbearing-to-journal clearance. Simply put, the bearing is worn out. Finally, a light tapping noise can indicate excess pistonpin clearance in the piston. To confirm and pinpoint a bottom-end noise-related problem, disconnect the spark-plug leads one at a time, then run your engine and listen for the noise to change or go away. What happens is the power-stroke is eliminated from the cylinder with the disconnected spark-plug lead, thus unloading its piston and connecting rod. So, if the noise is piston or rod-related, it will be greatly reduced or eliminated when you have the plug wire disconnected from.the problem cylinder. If your car is equipped with a solid-state ignition, always ground the lead you disconnect. Otherwise you risk damaging your expensive ignition system. A sharp clacking or rapping noise indicates your engine probably has a collapsed hydraulic lifter. If the noise is a light cliclung, it is probably excess clearance in one of the valve mechanisms. This assumes your engine is not equipped with solid lifters which click normally-unless the cliclung is excessive. Then the problem will also be excess clearance, or lash. If SOL1 D-STATE IGNITION SYSTEMS Many solid-state (electronic) ignition systems generate very high secondaryvoltage peaks when a spark-plug lead is unloaded by disconnecting it from its spark plug, or by disconnecting the coil-to-distributor lead while the engine is being cranked or is running. The resulting secondary ,voltage surge of up to 60,000 volts can damage a coil internally, or pierce plug-wire insulation or a distributor cap as the high voltage seeks a ground. So, if you remove any secondary lead with the ignition on and the .engine turning, ground the lead to the engine with a jumper wire. Ford has installed solidstate (breakerless) ignitions since 1974. -
I - this is the problem, a simple valve adjustment may correct things. w To check for proper lash, remove the ,* -ye valve cover from the noisy side of the engine and insert a feeler gage between each rocker arm and its valve stem one at a time. When you get to the noisy one, ci pir7 the gage will take up lash and reduce the noise. In this instance, a simple adjustment may correct the problem if your rocker arms are adjustable. If there is still a lot more clearance when the feeler gage is - between the rocker and the valve-stem tip, suspect that the lifter is malfunctioning or the pushrod is bent, particularly if the engine was over-rewed. Spark Plugs Tell a Story- Prior to testing, an easy way to your engine is Vacuu, gage being u=, to check the "look" into the combustion chambers by pumping ability of this engine. A fluctuating removing the spark plugs and inspecting needle indicates problems in at least one them. Each plug has a story to tell about cylinder. the cylinder it came out of, so remember to keep them in order. The main thing to look for is a wetblack deposit on the inside of the threaded you watch the vacuum gage. The remote portion of the plug, and on the plug starter lets you control the starter from insulator. This is caused by oil getting under the hood. past the rings or the intake-valve stems. When doing this test, connect the Oil loss through exhaust-valve guides vacuum gage to the intake manifold doesn't enter the combustion chamber, after you've warmed up your engine. Disand won't show on the plugs. able the ignition system so the engine Black, dry and fluffy deposits are car- can't be started. Disconnect the high-tenban caused by an over-rich fuel mixture, sion, or distributor-to-coil lead so the excessive idling or driving at sustained engine won't start when it is beingcranked. low speeds without much load on the With electronic systems, disconnect the engine. pJ the plugs should appear aboui distributor-to-amplifier lead. .With your the same in this case. The fuel mixture eye on the vacuum gage, crank the engine. wdl have to be corrected by tuning, how- If the gage indicates a steady vacuum ever carbon buildup caused by the way a reading after it has stabilized, all eight vehicle is operated can .be partially tor- cylinders are seal@g the same in relation rected by installing hotter plugs. This to one another. ~f the needle fluctuates, keeps the carbon burned off the plugs so indicating a pulsating vacuum, one or they won't foul, but it doesn't eliminate more of the cylinders has a problem, carbon buildup on the intake ports or on assuming your starter is cranking steadily. the back of the intake valves. It could be valve timing due to incorrect Cranking Vacuum Test-An internal-~om- adjustment, a worn camshaft lobe or bustion engine is a specialized air pump, collapsed valve lifter, a leaking valve, so how it sucks air, or pulls a vacuum is worn cylinder bore or piston rings, a an indicator of its mechanical soundness, broken piston ring or a leaky head gasket. or how your engine's cylinders are sealing If this indicates a bad cylinderls, the next relative to one another. You'll need a two tests pinpoint which one it is. vacuum gage and a remote starter, or a Power-Balance Test- A power-balance friend to operate the starter switch while test determines if all of your engine's "Reading" your spark plugs is a good troubleshooting technique. Worn-out plugs as in A are easily recognizable by eroded electrodes and pitted insulator. Replace them and your engine's performance wlll Improve instantly. Oil-coated and fouled plug B indicates internal engine wear: piston rings, cylinder bores and valve guides. Carboned plug C coated with dry, black and fluffy deposits is usually caused by carburetion problems or driving habits. Normal spark plug D has a brown to greyish-tan appearance with some electrode wear indicated by slightly radiused electrode edges. When inspecting your plugs, keep track of the cylinder each belongs to. Photos courtesy Champion Spark Plug Company.
Page 1 and 2: HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3: Introduction This book deals with r
Page 8 and 9: A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11: may be causing the problem at this
Page 12 and 13: ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15: To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17: Radlators can be heavy like this bi
Page 18 and 19: emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 20 and 21: ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
Page 22 and 23: ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25: get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27: Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29: When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31: 351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
Page 32 and 33: I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35: pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37: PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39: 4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41: Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43: Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45: You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47: cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49: them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51: If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53: 5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55: After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57:
0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59:
Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61:
Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63:
If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65:
Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67:
while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69:
When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71:
Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73:
Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75:
New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77:
CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79:
anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81:
CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83:
The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85:
will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87:
or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89:
Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91:
Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93:
This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95:
.,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97:
If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99:
BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101:
Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105:
Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107:
Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109:
A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111:
metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113:
Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115:
Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117:
Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119:
Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121:
lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125:
12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127:
LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129:
- 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131:
I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133:
- Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135:
housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137:
Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139:
You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141:
Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143:
spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145:
4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147:
_- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149:
TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151:
P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153:
If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155:
- R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157:
starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159:
After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161:
Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
show all

How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?