How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY
ALIGNED WITH STATOR
I
EACH 112-TOOTH
ERROR IS EQUAL
TO 7-314 ENGINE
DEGREES TIMING
ERROR
ARMATURE
Statically timing the distributor. With crank
on 10" BTDC, rotate housing clockwise so
rotor lines up with the number-1 mark and
points just begin to open.
Statically time a solid-state distributor by rotating the housing so one armature vane lines
up with the magnetic pickup as shown in the circle. Rotor should also be located midway
between two magnetic-pickup rivets. Drawing courtesy Ford.
utor gear engage its drive gear on the camshaft,
the distributor shaft must also engage
the oil-pump drive shaft. The chance
of these two engaging on the first try is
highly unlikely. Once the distributor gears
have partially engaged and the distributor
has ceased to go into the block any farther,
bump the engine over. This will rotate the
distributor shaft so it will eventually line
up with the oil-pump shaft. You won't
have to rotate the crank very far. Apply a
slight downward pressure on the distributor
until it engages, then bring the crank
back to TDC and check the rotor position.
With the distributor in place, you can
come fairly close to correct timing before
the engine is run by timing it statically.
To do this, turn the crank so the pointer
and crank damper indicate the correct
distributor advance-10" BTDC for example.
Install the distributor hold-down
clamp and bolt loosely, and then rotate
the distributor housing clockwise, against
the rotation of the rotor, until the points
just begin to open. Spark occurs the
instant the points break contact. Secure
the hold-down clamp. Later, when you get
the engine running, check the timing with
a timing light and readjust as necessary.
If your distributor is the later breaker-
less type, a similar method works. However,
rather than having the points to go
by, align one of the armature spokes as
shown in the sketch. Looking down on
the distributor, the rotor should be
between the two rivets which secure the
magnetic pickup when it is in the number-1
firing position.
ACCESSORY-DRIVE INSTALLATION
The difficulty of installing engine
accessories depends simply on how many
your engine has. It can be a five-minute
job or the toughest part of the engine installation.
I'll treat the installation
assuming your car or truck is loaded and
you can skip those sections that don't
apply.
A/C Compressor and Power-Steering
Pump-If an engine is equipped with both
power steering and A/C accessories, they
have to be installed together because they
share common mountings. Hang-on-A/C
units are a different matter-they will be
separate.
The A/C compressor should be hanging
right where you left it-on the left-front
fender apron. If you removed it, install its
bottom mounting bracket. Make sure you
use the correct mounting bolts if you
have the two-piston-type compressor.
They are the short 3/8-16 bolts with integral
serrated-face washers. Ford terms
these UBS bolts, meaning "uniform
bearing strength." Make sure you use the
correct length bolts and install them carefully
to check fof "bottoming." The very
short ones are used to mount the adjustable-idler
bracket to the compressor
bracket. Torque these bolts 20-30 ft.lbs.
If they aren't already there, install the
A/C-compressor and power-steering-pump
mounting studs in the left cylinder head.
loosely install the A/C compressor and its
bracket on the studs, then install the
power steering over the A/C bracket.
There'll also be a stud at the water pump
for mounting the inboard end of the
power-steering-pump bracket. Run some
nuts on the studs to hold everything in
place. If you have a back-side idler for the
A/C belt, it mounts on top of the A/C
compressor and power-steering pump
brackets. Tighten everything securely
once you get all the brackets fitted and
figured out.
Turn your attention to the top A/Ccompressor
bracket. It will fit between
the compressor and the water pump. It
not only helps support the compressor,