How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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Remove engine-lifting lugs and exhaust manifolds. Notice crack (arrow). Right manifold is susceptible to cracking because it runs hot due to shrouding from carburetor heat duct. Numbers painted on valve cover are the results of a compression check. Cylinder number 3 was bad. Photo on next page reveals the reason. With securing bolts out carefully remove your valve covers by prying under their flanges. If you do bend one, they are easily straightened by tapping on their backsides with a hammer with valve cover on a flat surface. This engine went too long between oil changes and was operated too cool. The engine didn't have a thermostat. Sludge forms when an engine runs too cool. Sludge is dried and flaky because of overheating. Core plugs were badly rusted and leaked. Note also incorrectly installed baffle on the rear rocker arm (arrow). Result of the incorrectly installed rockerarm baffle. Rocker-arm fulcrum at left shows normal wear and can be reused whereas one on right is badly galled and worn. Oil from pushrod wasn't deflected by baffle into rocker's pivot area where it was needed, but squirted over rocker arm. I Remove rocker-arm nuts or bolts, then you can remove rockers, fulcrums and pushrods. As you remove each rocker arm and fulcrum, string them togetheron a wire like I'm doing with this 429's rocker arms and fulcrums. 'q 3 With the bolts out, break your intake manifold loose from block and heads by wedging a screwdriver or chisel between block and manifold. Just make sure all manifold bolts are removed, particularly if you have a 351 C or 351 M/400. Outboard choke-heater bolts thread into head and not manifold. Here are two bolts that weren't removed and fell victim to a long pry-bar. Except for early 429/460s which have a separate baffle, remove the intakemanifold baffle/gasket from top of your engine. It's under a dowel pin at front of left head and rear of right one.
A! . ovlng all . bolts fr r cylinder head, break them loose from the block. Do this with a long pry bar Inserted In an Intake port as Is being done with this 429, or wedge and pry between the block and head with a screwdriver as shown with this 351 C. Loosely thread a couple of head bolts back in first to prevent a head from falling off when it breaks loose. heads loose from the block. but I've seen more than one enthusiastic individual attempting to pry a head loose from a cylinder block with one or more head bolts in place. Before removing the right head from a 351C, 351M or a 400 engine, make sure the oil dip-stick tube is unbolted from it. After my cylinder-head sermon, I'll now suggest you run a couple of bolts back in each head so about two threads are engaged. This will ~revent a head from falling off the blo& and onto the floor. This could damage a head as well as a foot. After the heads are loose, (arrow). r";. , : : 'I ., I.. 0 , . J,; @& , < . , . -- (I How to remove a core plug-knock it in, then pry it out. These core plugs were badly rusted and leaked as shown by rust streaks on block. Evidence of heavy coolant loss and dried sludge supports the suspicion that this engine was overheated several times. Consequently, warped heads and scuffed pistons are a couple things to check for. f remove the bolts and lift them off. Cylinder heads can be stubborn to -.' get off. After the bond between the head and the block is broken, the job is relatively easy. To break the bond, you can use one of two dethods. First, insert a bar, a breaker is perfect. into one of the intake ports and lever ui on the head. If that doesn't break it loose, wedge between the head and block with a sharp chisel or screwdriver. Once the heads are broken loose, you can remove the "safety bolts" and lift the heads off. Your engine will now be more than 100 lbs. lighter. Mark the cylinder heads and head gaskets RIGHT and LEFT to assist in identifying problems. NOW FOR THE BOTTOM END To remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer, or damper, you'll need a puller. If you haven't already done so, remove the crankshaft drive pulley, then remove the center attaching bolt and washer. Now, just because the bolt is out, it doesn't mean the damper is going to slide right off the crankshaft. Quite the contrary, this is where you'll need the puller. Don't hy prying the damper of5 The
Page 1 and 2: HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3: Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7: DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9: A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11: may be causing the problem at this
Page 12 and 13: ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15: To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17: Radlators can be heavy like this bi
Page 18 and 19: emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 20 and 21: ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
Page 22 and 23: ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25: get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27: Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29: When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31: 351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
Page 32 and 33: I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35: pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37: PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39: 4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41: Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 44 and 45: You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47: cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49: them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51: If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53: 5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55: After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57: 0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59: Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61: Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63: If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65: Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67: while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69: When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71: Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73: Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75: New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79: anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83: The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85: will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91: Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93:
This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95:
.,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97:
If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99:
BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101:
Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105:
Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107:
Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109:
A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111:
metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113:
Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115:
Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117:
Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119:
Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121:
lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125:
12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127:
LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129:
- 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131:
I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133:
- Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135:
housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137:
Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139:
You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141:
Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143:
spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145:
4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147:
_- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149:
TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151:
P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153:
If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155:
- R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157:
starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159:
After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161:
Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
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