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How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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If you plan on reusing your old cam and<br />

lifters, the lifters must be kept in order. As<br />

each llfter is removed from the bottom <strong>of</strong><br />

its bore, I'm putting them In this special<br />

holder to correspond to their original position<br />

in the engine. Assuming you don't have<br />

one <strong>of</strong> these holders, a couple <strong>of</strong> egg cartons<br />

or a sheet <strong>of</strong> cardboard with 16 holes<br />

punched in it will work flne. Be sure to mark<br />

which end corresponds to the front <strong>of</strong> the<br />

engine.<br />

Worn and new lifters. Worn lifter is useless<br />

as it is worn from its new convex spherical<br />

shape to a concave shape. Because the<br />

lifter-foot wear pattern matches cam-lobe<br />

wear, a camshaft and its lifters would<br />

quickly be destroyed If lifters are not<br />

reinstalled in their same bores.<br />

Badly pitted and worn lobes spells the end<br />

<strong>of</strong> this camshaft. If reinstalled, it would<br />

quickly lose its lobes and spread metal particles<br />

throughout the newly rebuilt engine's<br />

oiling system.<br />

When trying to remove oil-gallery plugs,<br />

you'll think they were put in to stay. A boxend<br />

wrench slipped over an Allen wrench<br />

should provide the additional torque<br />

needed to loosen the plugs.<br />

to as knocking or pinging. The cause can<br />

be due to the use <strong>of</strong> lower octane-rated<br />

fuel than the engine requires or excessively<br />

high temperatures in the combustion<br />

chamber for one reason or another.<br />

If any <strong>of</strong> your bearing caps appear to be<br />

sprung, they can be reused if your engine<br />

is intended for normal street and highway<br />

use. If you're going to use it for racing,<br />

the loose caps should be replaced. The<br />

block will then require line boring or<br />

honing to true up the main-cap bearing<br />

bores with those in the block. Special<br />

bearings have to be used when this is<br />

done.<br />

As you're removing the main caps,<br />

don't remove the bearings just yet. After<br />

you have all the caps <strong>of</strong>f, lift the crankshaft<br />

straight out <strong>of</strong> the block and set it<br />

beside the block. Place the bearings and<br />

their caps alongside their corresponding<br />

journals so you can see the inserts. By<br />

doing this you'll be able to relate any<br />

bearing problems to the crankshaft journal<br />

each was fitted to. Record any potential<br />

problems you may discover and the<br />

corresponding journal so you will have<br />

this information during your crankshaft<br />

inspection and cleanup, and possible reconditioning.<br />

Removing the Cam-Two things have to<br />

be done before you can remove the cam.<br />

First, and most obvious, is to remove the<br />

thrust plate. Remove the 2 thrust-plate<br />

retaining bolts, then the plate. Don't<br />

attempt to remove the cam just yet.<br />

You'll have to remove or raise the lifters<br />

in their bores so the cam lobes and bearing<br />

journals will clear them as it is moved<br />

forward.<br />

Varnish builds up on the lifters just<br />

below the lifter bore. Mike the diameter<br />

<strong>of</strong> a lifter at this point and you'll find<br />

that its outside diameter is larger than the<br />

inside diameter <strong>of</strong> its lifter bore, making<br />

it difficult to impossible to remove up<br />

through the bore.<br />

The best way I've found to remove a<br />

cam and its lifters is to remove the cam,<br />

then to push the lifters out the bottom <strong>of</strong><br />

their bores:<strong>To</strong> do this, you'll have to<br />

raise the lifters in their bores and keep<br />

them there so you can remove the camshaft.<br />

Keep is the key word. Put the engine<br />

on its back or stand it up on its rear<br />

face. Raise the lifters by turning the cam-<br />

.shaft a full revolution. Slip the cam<br />

sprocket back on to make it easier to turn<br />

the cam. If you're working with a <strong>429</strong>1<br />

460, the camshaft lobe-lift isn't enough<br />

to raise the lifters so the cam bearing<br />

journals will clear the lifters. You'll have<br />

to force the lifters up a little higher in<br />

their bores. This would also be the case in<br />

the event your <strong>351C</strong> or <strong>351M</strong>/<strong>400</strong> cam<br />

has worn lobes. Be careful not to damage<br />

the lifters if you can reuse them.<br />

<strong>To</strong> start the cam moving forward, pry<br />

it with a screwdriver, bearing against the<br />

backside <strong>of</strong> a cam lobe and one <strong>of</strong> the<br />

bearing webs. Get ready to support the<br />

camshaft as it clears the bearings, particularly<br />

if you are doing this with the block<br />

on its back. If you are intending to save<br />

the cam bearings, be careful when doing<br />

this job. A hard cam lobe can easily damage<br />

a s<strong>of</strong>t bearing if the cam is dropped.<br />

Keep the Lifters in Order-With the cam<br />

clear <strong>of</strong> the block, you can now easily remove<br />

the lifters through the bottom <strong>of</strong><br />

their bores. <strong>How</strong>ever, before you start removing<br />

them, make some arrangement to

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