How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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Installing alternator with its two brackets
and spacers. Don't tighten pivot bolt or one
at the adjusting bracket yet.
Pilot the exhaust pipes into the manifolds,
slide the mounting flanges up each
pipe, then hold them in place with a nut
on one of the studs. This will support the
pipe too. Run the other nuts on and
torque them all to 30 ft.lbs.
Oil Filter-Check before lowering the car.
It may be easier to install the oil filter
from below. Fill it about half full first so
you'll get oil pressure sooner. Smear some
oil on the seal, then run the filter up until
it contacts the block, and give it another
half turn. While you're under there, check
the oil-pan drain plug just to make certain
it's there and tight. Set the car down now
that you're ready to go top-side.
Engine Oil-If for no other reason than to
take a break, now is a good time to fill
the crankcase with oil. Because the filter
has some oil in it, add a quart less than
what's specified. You can check oil level
after running the engine and add oil as
necessary to bring it up to the mark.
Carburetor Linkage-The accelerator
linkage will be either the rod-and-lever or
cable type.
If you have a cable type, there will be
a bracket which attaches to the intake
manifold to mount the carburetor end of
the cable conduit. Install it if it's not already
on the manifold. The cable will
either clip or bolt onto this bracket. At
the carburetor end of the cable, there will
be a socket which attaches to a ball on
the carburetor bellcrank. Shove it on with
your thumb and it'll stay in place.
The rod-type linkage attaches the same
way, but it doesn't require a manifold
bracket. The rod will extend from a lever
mounted on the firewall. This type is
used on most trucks.
Try doing this without pouring oil on your
clean engine. If you don't have a spout,
make sure there's a rag handy. Regardless
of the brand of oil you're using, just make
sure it's SE grade.
Hooking up this 400's accelerator cable.
The automatic-transmission kick-down rod
has already been installed. Next comes the
cruise-control linkage.
Carburetor linkage on 460-powered truck uses a rod-and-lever system rather than a
cable linkage. Mote bracket used to stabilize automatlc-transmisdion kickdown rod. It
must be used, otherwise rod will flop from side to side.
The next item you'll have to deal with
at the carburetor is the automatic transmission
TV, or kick-down rod. Slip it
over a pin extending from the movable
lever on the carburetor bellcrank. There's
a special clip which holds this link in
place. It clips in a groove in the pin so it
is spring-loaded against the side of the
rod. Make sure you have all the return
springs in place. There'll be one for the
TV rod and two for the carburetor return.
Federal mandates require the auto makers
to use two throttle-return springs at the
carburetor.
Ignition Coil-Over the years, you could
find an ignition coil mounted just about
anywhere. However, Ford seems to have
settled on mounting most coils on the
top-right of the intake manifold. This is a
good spot because nothing else seems to
occupy the space but, better yet, it's kept
cool due to being in the air blast from the
fan. Locate the coil bracket to the notch
and hole made for it, and secure it with
its one bolt.
Wiring Harness-Locate the engine-wiring
harness along the inboard side of the left
valve cover. Retain the harness using the
clips you've installed under the valve-cover
bolts. Some of the leads can be connected
now and some can't. For instance, you
should be able to connect the sending-unit
leads for oil pressure and water temperature,
and the leads to the coil. The distributor
and A/C-compressor clutch leads will
have to wait.
Fuel Line-Connect the fuel line from the
fuel tank to the pump. Also, install the
fuel-pump-to-carburetor line if you
haven't done so yet.