How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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metal cover. You can tap the seal in by working around its shell gradually, however this method is somewhat chancy. You can also use a vise with the aluminum cover, however a cylinder is required between the vise jaws and the seal so the vise will clear the cover. Gradually force the seal into place by tightening the vise jaws. Regardless of the type cover you have, the seal lip must point toward the engine when it is installed. Prepare the Damper or Spacer Sleeve-If you haven't cleaned your damper yet, do it now. The main area to inspect is the rubber bond between the outer ring and the inner. It must be secure. Try to force them apart longitudinally, or back and forth. If there is noticeable movement, the bond has failed and the damper should be replaced. Also inspect the inner bore and front-cover sealing surface. Give the sealing surface of the 351C and 351M/ 400 damper nose the same treatment you gave the crankshaft bearing journals, page 61, but don't polish it. Some tooth is required to carry oil for lubricating the seal. The 4291460 uses a separate spacer between its damper and the crankshaft sprocket. 35 1 C and 351 MI400 spacers are an integral part of their dampers. The separate-4291460 spacer provides the surface which rides against the front cover seal on these engines. Give the spacer the same treatment you gave the crankshaft bearing journals, page 61. If your damper nose or spacer seal surface is badly grooved or unfit for sealing for one reason or another, you'll have to replace the damper spacer, or better yet, install a sleeve over the original seal surface. This relatively inexpensive part is available at most automotive parts stores. The sleeve is approximately 0.030-inch thick. The lip-type seal will comply with the additional thickness, so you can use a stock seal when using a sleeve. To install a repair sleeve, clean the original seal surface and remove any burrs. Coat it with silicone sealer to prevent oil leaks between the sleeve and the damper or spacer. If you have a 351C, 351M1400, support the damper so the rubber bond will not be loaded and drive or press the sleeve on. Place a flat plate-steel, aluminum or wood-across the end of the sleeve as it sits on the end of the damper or spacer, to spread the load. Make sure the sleeve is started straight and install it until it's flush with the end of the damper nose or spacer. Wipe the excess sealer off and your seal surface is as good as new. Water-Pump-to-Cover-Before installing If your damper or damper-spacer seal surface doesn't clean up after giving it the same treatment you gave your crankshaft journals, or it's grooved like this one, you don't have to lay out money for a new damper or spacer. Yours can be repaired by installing an inexpensive repair sleeve. Apply silicone sealer to the sleeve's ID, then drive it over the original seal surface. Using a wood block between the repair sleeve and hammer. Wipe away the excess sealer and your damper or sleeve will be like new. 351 C and 351 M/400 front-cover installation. After applying sealer, install front-cover gasket. Gasket and cover locate over two dovr re1 pins, automatically centering cover on crankshaft. Dowels can be seen directly abovr my thumbs as I'm installing cover. Don't forget sealer between cover and gasket. Oil ar ~d coolant are being sealed. the front engine cover, you should install the water pump to the cover first, particularly if you have the 351C, 351M1400. The bottom cover bolts won't pull the upper section of the sheet-metal cover against the block firm enough for a good seal. Consequently, if you don't have the pump in place when installing the front cover, you'll risk oil and water leaks. Remember, the majority of the waterpump bolts thread into the block for securing the pump and the upper section of the cover. One exception is when using slow-curing sealer such as RTV silicone, then install the water purnp inimediately after you have the front cover on. Aluminum and sheet-metal front covers have threaded holes for mounting water pumps. You'll have one gasket for the 351C, 351M/400 water pump. Apply sealer to both gasket surfaces, then install the water pump. 4291460 water pumps Centering 429/460 front cover before tightening its bolts. After oiling damperspacer seal surface, slide spacer into front-cover seal. This centers cover so you can secure its bolts.
To ease future repairs, apply some antiseize compound to the damper ID. Oil its seal surface and you're ready to install it. use two gaskets, one between the pump's cover plate and the pump, and one between the water-pump assenlbly and the front engine cover. After you've installed the pump's cover with its gasket and sealer, install the assembly to the front cover, again with the gasket and some sealer. Install the Front Cover-Lubricate the fuel-pump cam with some moly grease and wipe off any excess oil from the block's front-cover mounting surface. Use thinner to get it really clean so the sealer will seal. Two dowel pins in the 351 C, 351 MI400 block locate the front cover whereas the 4291460 cover must be centered on the crankshaft using the damper spacer. If it isn't, the damper will probably end up off-center resulting in uneven seal loading and an oil leak. Center the aluminum cover by installing the front cover loosely. Using the spacer installed on the crank nose and inserted in the cover seal for centering, secure the cover to the engine. Torque front-cover bolts 12-18 ft. Ibs. for both styles of front covers. A tip is in order here if you have a 4291460. Now's the time to install the thermostat-bypass hose. Regardless of age, I always replace it because it's so much easier to do now than a month or two years later. It's also easier to install now than after you have the water pump/ front cover in place. You'll need a 518-inch hose approximately 2-314-inches long. This is a bit longer than required, so hold your water pump and cover in place, then measure exactly how much length you'll need. Measure from the front of the intake manifold to the back of the water pump. Torque crankshaft damper bolt 70-90 ft.lbs. Keep crankshaft from turning by using a screwdriver between the block and one of the crank's counterweights. If the oil pan is in place, a bolt in the damper and a screwdriver can be used to hold the crank from turning. After trimming the hose to length, install it, with its two hose clamps, on the manifold. You can now fit it to the water pump as you install it and the front cover. Install the Damper-Apply anti-seize compound to the damper bore. It acts as a lubricant during the installation so the crankshaft and damper won't gall. It also helps in the event the damper has to be removed at a later date. Lubricate the front-cover seal. Install the damper after making sure its key is in place. You'll be installing the damper's bolt and washer for the last time. Use it to pull the damper on, and torque it 70- 90 ft.lbs. You'll find that you can't beginto apply this much torque without turning the crankshaft; so use a large screwdriver to keep it from rotating. Put the screwdriver between the bottom of the block and the front of the counterweight. OIL PUMP & PAN Now's the time to seal the bottom of your engine. If it's not already upside down, roll your engine over on its back. Before installing the pan, you'll have to install the oil pump and its driveshaft-it's just a tad difficult afterwards. Oil-Pump Pickup-If you have a new oil pump or if you removed the pickup from your old one, you'll have to install the pickup before putting the pump on the engine. Pickups are not included with new or rebuilt pumps. The 4291460 pickup tube press-fits into the bottom of its pump housing. To remove the pickup, lightly clamp the pump in a vise. I clamp it at the mounting flange. Simply rotate the pickup and gradually work it out of the pump body. A 351C or 351Ml400 pickup can be unscrewed from its pump. Just remember its position so it can be installed correctly. Rather than using a common punch, a better tool can be fabricated from a short piece of 314-inch pipe. Using your hacksaw, remove a 2-inch section from one end of the pipe like the one pictured. You'll now have a tool which can bear on 180' of the pickiip-tshe bead. Consequently, the chance of pickup-tube damage is considerably reduced. Position the pickup at a 45' angle to the pump so it will be centered in the oil pan. You can make final adjustments after installing the pump assembly. A 351C or 351Ml400 pickup should , be installed so it will be level when in place on the engine, or parallel to the mounting flange. Without using sealer, thread the pickupsinto the pump housing and bring it around into position as it tightens. Again, make final adjustments once the pump assembly is installed. Install the Driveshaft-l always replace the oil-pump driveshaft because of its critical function. However, if you plan to reuse your old driveshaft, look it over. If there is any appreciable wear other than the shiny spots on the drive-sides of the hexes; replace it. With the littie Tinnerman collar-the stamped-metal ring-pushed down over the shaft and your engine on its back, install your oil-pump driveshaft. Insert the end of the shaft with the collar in the oilpump-shaft bore. This collar performs a very important function. It prevents the shaft from being pulled out of the oil pump when the distributor is removed. The importance of this feature can be fully realized by those unlucky individuals who removed the distributor only to hear an ominous clunk in their oil pan-the oil-
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HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3:
Introduction This book deals with r
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DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
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A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
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may be causing the problem at this
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ect, particularly if there appears
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To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17:
Radlators can be heavy like this bi
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emove the compressor and have a sys
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ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
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ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
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get on with the physical makeup of
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Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29:
When sifting through your local scr
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351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
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I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
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pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37:
PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39:
4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41:
Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43:
Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45:
You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47:
cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49:
them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51:
If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53:
5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55:
After you've cleaned out the head-
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0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59:
Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61: Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63: If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65: Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67: while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69: When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71: Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73: Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75: New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79: anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83: The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85: will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91: Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93: This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95: .,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97: If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99: BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101: Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105: Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107: Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109: A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 112 and 113: Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115: Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117: Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119: Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121: lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125: 12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127: LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129: - 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131: I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133: - Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135: housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137: Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139: You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141: Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143: spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145: 4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147: _- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149: TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151: P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153: If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155: - R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157: starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159: After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161:
Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
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