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How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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<strong>To</strong> ensure that your hood will fit at installation time, trace around the hinges for later reference. I'm using machinist's soap-stone here.<br />

With the front hinge bolts removed, finish removing the rear bolts and lift the hood <strong>of</strong>f. Don't forget to disconnect the engine-compartment<br />

light if your vehicle is so equipped.<br />

Before immobilizing your vehicle,<br />

clean its engine compartment, engine and<br />

transmission. Remove as much dirt and<br />

grease as possible. The most effective and<br />

simplest way <strong>of</strong> doing this is with a can <strong>of</strong><br />

spray degreaser and high-pressure water.<br />

If your car is running, take it to a car<br />

wash and just follow the directions on the<br />

can to soak the grease and dirt before<br />

spraying it. Or, use their car wash degreaser<br />

if one is available. Otherwise, do it at<br />

home with a garden hose. Take fair<br />

warning: what's on your engine ends up<br />

under the car afterwards, so act accordingly.<br />

After you've finished your engine, it<br />

may not look new, but it will be a whole<br />

lot easier to work on.<br />

With your engine and the surrounding<br />

area clean and everything ready to go, I'll<br />

explain how to remove the engine pointby-point.<br />

Fender Protector-Put a fender protector,<br />

or a suitable facsimile over both fenders<br />

to protect the finish. This also makes the<br />

fender more comfortable for leaning on,<br />

and your tools won't slide <strong>of</strong>f as easily.<br />

Battery-If you have a standard transmission,<br />

remove the battery and store it in a<br />

safe place. Otherwise, disconnect the<br />

ground cable at the battery, but leave the<br />

battery in place because it will come in<br />

handy later on. Disconnect the coil-todistributor<br />

lead-the one coming out <strong>of</strong><br />

the center <strong>of</strong> the distributor cap, or the<br />

distributor-to-amplifier lead.<br />

Remove the Hood-If you have an engine<br />

compartment light, disconnect it first.<br />

Before loosening the bolts, mark the hinge<br />

locations relative to the hood. Do this by<br />

tracing around the hinges on the hood<br />

with a grease pencil, some chalk or a<br />

scriber. This will save you the trouble <strong>of</strong><br />

readjusting the hood after you replace it.<br />

A neat method <strong>of</strong> guaranteeing a hood<br />

goes back in exactly the same position<br />

that is was before its hinge bolts are<br />

loosened is to drill an 118-in. hole up<br />

through each hinge and the hood inner<br />

panel-don't go through the hood! <strong>To</strong> reinstall<br />

the hood, bolt it loosely to the<br />

hinges, insert an ice pick or an awl through<br />

the holes to align it, then tighten the<br />

bolts. The result-perfect alignment.<br />

Remove the front hinge bolts and<br />

loosen the back ones while supporting the<br />

hood at the front. A helping hand comes<br />

in handy-you on one side and him on the<br />

other. Remove the back bolts and lift the<br />

hood <strong>of</strong>f. Place it out <strong>of</strong> the way where it<br />

won't get damaged. Stand it up against a<br />

wall, and to ensure it won't fall over, wire<br />

the latch to a nail driven in a wall stud.<br />

Another trick is to put it on the ro<strong>of</strong> <strong>of</strong><br />

your car. Protect the paint or vinyl top<br />

by putting something between the hood<br />

and the ro<strong>of</strong>. Use this method only if<br />

your car or truck will be parked inside<br />

out <strong>of</strong> the wind.<br />

Remove the Radiator First-Turn your<br />

attention to the fan and radiator. Removing<br />

the radiator provides more access<br />

to the front <strong>of</strong> your engine for removing<br />

the accessories. This also prevents the<br />

radiator from being damaged during engine<br />

removal. One little nudge from the engne<br />

as it is being pulled can junk a radiator.<br />

The first impulse is to remove the fan<br />

before the radiator, but ths is a sure way<br />

to remove skin from your knuckles. The<br />

core fins put a radiator in the same family<br />

with a cheese grater.<br />

PLAN AHEAD<br />

It's very tempting and easy to "go<br />

crazy" disconnecting everything in<br />

sight without regard to where things<br />

have to go later on. Don't rely on your<br />

memory. Even if there are only 5<br />

hoses there are 120 ways they could<br />

be installed, and 119 are wrong! Mark<br />

all the items you disconnect such as<br />

wires and vacuum hoses. Wrap masking<br />

tape around the end <strong>of</strong> the wires or<br />

hoses and make a little "flag" for<br />

writing where the ends go. Put similar<br />

flags on the connection itself so you<br />

can get it all back together. Put your<br />

camera to use. Periodically snap some<br />

pictures <strong>of</strong> your engine from a couple<br />

<strong>of</strong> angles as you disconnect things. A<br />

picture is worth a thousand words.<br />

Finally, use tin cans or small boxes for<br />

the bolts, nuts and washers. If your<br />

engine is loaded with accessories, you'll<br />

find it especially helpful to label the<br />

containers as to the particular unit<br />

the fasteners were used with.

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