30.01.2015 Views

How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

You'll need a puller to remove the crankshaft damper. Remove the damper attaching bolt and washer, then reinstall the bolt without its<br />

washer so the puller will have something to push against. Damper will clear bolt head as it's pulled <strong>of</strong>f. <strong>429</strong>/460 is equipped with a damper<br />

spacer. Slide it <strong>of</strong>f end <strong>of</strong> crank after damper is out <strong>of</strong> the way.<br />

only thing you'll accomplish is ruining<br />

the damper and damaging the front cover<br />

or oil pan.<br />

You'll need a puller to get your<br />

damper <strong>of</strong>f. Thread the damper mounting<br />

bolt without its washer into the end <strong>of</strong><br />

the crank. This gives the puller something<br />

to push against, and the ID (inside<br />

diameter) <strong>of</strong> the damper will clear the<br />

bolt head as it is being pulled <strong>of</strong>f. Use a<br />

couple <strong>of</strong> crankshaft-Pulley bolts to secure<br />

the puller to the damper, then pull the<br />

damper <strong>of</strong>f. If you have a <strong>429</strong>1460<br />

engine, there will be a spacer sleeve<br />

behind the damper. It should slide easily<br />

<strong>of</strong>f the end <strong>of</strong> the crank.<br />

Roll the Engine Over-With the damper<br />

<strong>of</strong>f, remove the oil pan. I do this before<br />

the front cover because <strong>of</strong> the way they<br />

fit together. You'll need a 7116-inch<br />

socket for all the pan bolts except those<br />

next to the front and rear crankshaft<br />

seals. These require a 112-inch socket.<br />

Pop the pan loose by wedging under<br />

its flange, taking care to do this in several<br />

places so the flange is not severely<br />

distorted.<br />

Oil-Pump Assembly-Remove the oil<br />

pump. It's susceptible to damage now<br />

that it's exposed, particularly the pickup.<br />

After loosening the pump, remove it and<br />

its drive shaft which inserts into the base<br />

<strong>of</strong> the distributor. The oil-pump drive<br />

shaft is one item whch must be replaced.<br />

Reused ones have been known to fail.<br />

resulting in spun bearings and other unpleasant<br />

things. Don't discard it, however.<br />

Save it to compare its length and hex<br />

size with the new one. It'll also come in<br />

handy if you intend to rebuild your distributor.<br />

Front Engine Cover-A major difference<br />

between the 351 C, 351 M and <strong>400</strong> engines<br />

A speec ._ .moving oilpan<br />

bolts. Bolts adjacent to front and redr<br />

main-bearing caps have a 1 /2-inch hex and<br />

rest are 7/16 inch. With the bolts out,<br />

remove oil pan as you did valve covers.<br />

and the <strong>429</strong>/460 engines is their front<br />

cover, or timing-chain cover designs.<br />

Because the 35 lC, 351 M and <strong>400</strong> covers<br />

are cast integrally with the engine block,<br />

with exception <strong>of</strong> the front <strong>of</strong> the cover,<br />

you'll only have to remove the flat sheetmetal<br />

plate. <strong>429</strong>1460 front covers are<br />

cast aluminum.<br />

<strong>To</strong> remove either type <strong>of</strong> cover, start<br />

with the bolts. The timing pointer will<br />

come loose in the case <strong>of</strong> the sheet-metal<br />

cover, but can stay with the aluminum<br />

cover. One <strong>of</strong> the pointer's ends is attached<br />

directly to the cover. Tap the back side <strong>of</strong><br />

the cover with a hammer to pop it looseuse<br />

the butt-end <strong>of</strong> your hammer handle<br />

for the aluminum cover. Also, watch that<br />

the sheet-metal cover doesn't hang up on<br />

its two locating dowel pins.<br />

Achilles Heel-Like most engines using a<br />

chain-driven camshaft, the chain and<br />

drive sprockets are a weak point in the<br />

durability department. What happens is<br />

With oil pan c-. -. ~ay, remove oil<br />

pump and shaft. If the drive sides <strong>of</strong> the<br />

shaft are worn more than just shiny, replace<br />

it. Even though you plan to trash the<br />

shaft, save it-it may come in handy later.<br />

5<br />

the links <strong>of</strong> the chain wear causing the<br />

chain to elongate-erroneously referred<br />

to as stretching. The chain doesn't<br />

stretch. The result is the cam retards, or<br />

is behind the crankshaft in timing, causing<br />

a loss <strong>of</strong> low-end power. Even worse,<br />

the chain can jump a few "cogs," preventing<br />

the engine from running.<br />

As for the cam sprocket, the OEMinstalled<br />

nylon-jacketed-aluminum-type<br />

sprockets tend to split and crack, particularly<br />

in hot climates such as the<br />

southwest U.S. Sometimes, the teeth will<br />

break <strong>of</strong>f. <strong>Your</strong> engine may not be<br />

equipped with this type sprocket, it may<br />

have a replacement cast-iron sprocket<br />

simply because the orignal sprocket<br />

was replaced earlier in your engine's life.<br />

Prior to removing the chain and its<br />

sprockets, check them for wear if they've<br />

had less than 50,000 miles <strong>of</strong> use. The<br />

Chain should not deflect more than 112<br />

inch. If the chain and cam sprocket<br />

TEARDOWN 43

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!