How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

ENGINE REMOVAL
Don't Trust Your Memory-Use a camera
and/or some masking tape. Label each
hose and wire before disconnecting it.
Disconnect all the hoses and wires from
the top of the engine. There'll be a hose
from the power-brake booster to the intake
manifold, or one to a vacuum manifold
mounted on the firewall and many
smaller hoses, depending on the year and
how your vehicle is equipped. An enginewiring
harness usually lays along the inboard
flange of the left valve cover, held
by clips under two or three valve-cover
bolts. Disconnect the harness leads from
the oil-pressure sending unit, water-temperature
sending unit, coil and/or distributor,
A/C compressor clutch and any
emission-related devices. Remove the harness
with the valve-cover clips, or if they
are the type which bend over for retention,
bend them open to release the harness.
Disconnect the heater hoses. Plan on replacing
them if they are more than twoyears
old.
ACCESSORY REMOVAL
Pulleys and Belts-Engine accessories can
be the most difficult part of removing
and replacing an engine. Loosen all
the belts and remove them. This will
free the water-pump pulley, but you may
not be able to remove it if your engine
has a three-belt accessory-drive system.
You'll have to remove the crank pulley
first. After the crank-pulley bolts are out,
tap on the backside of the pulley using a
rubber or plastic mallet to loosen it. The
pulley pilots over the center of the crankshaft
damper, so it may be a little tight.
The water-pump pulley will now be free
to come off.
A/C Compressor and Power-Steering
Pump-I'll describe an engine with a complete
array of accessories, so disregard
those areas which don't apply to your
engine. Start with the A/C compressor
and power-steering pump. Remove the
triangular bracket which sometimes is installed
between the compressor and the
power-steering brackets. With this bracket
out of the way you'll be able to see most
of the power-steering bracket bolts. Before
removing the A/C compressor, you'll
have to remove the power-steering pump
and its bracket because it mounts to the
bottom compressor bracket. Unbolt the
pump bracket from the block, being careful
to support the pump right-side up to
prevent fluid loss. Leave the hoses connected
to the pump and set the pump
aside. Wire it to the left-front fender
apron if you can't position the pump so it
won't fall over and spill its fluid.
Avoid Disconnecting the A/C Hoses-
Here's where you can save time, trouble
and money. Rather than disconnecting
the A/C-compressor hoses for removing
the compressor from the engine compartment,
set it aside like the power-steering
pump. This avoids the need to recharge
the A/C system after you've reinstalled
your engine.
Begin removing the compressor from
the engine by first removing the upper
support bracket-the one that also mounts
the adjustable idler pulley. Follow this up
by unbolting the compressor and lower
bracket from the front of the engine as an
assembly, then lay it to the side out of
the way. If your engine compartment is
small, such as the Mustang's or Cougar's,
you'll need to get the compressor and its
lines up out of the way. Support the compressor
from the left fender with a strong
cord tied to a bent nail. Tie the free end
of the cord to a bolt threaded into the
compressor. Lift the compressor and
bracket high on the fender apron, then
hook the nail to the wheel-opening flange
with a rag or a piece of cardboard under
the nail. This will keep the paint from "
being damaged. Tie the cord short enough
to support the compressor high and out
of your way.
Alternator and Air Pump-The left-front
side of your engine now should be bare,
so shift your attention to the opposite
side. There will be an alternator, and possibly,
an air pump-used with Ford's
Thermactor emission-control system. One
will be mounted above the other, but
which way depends on the year and
model. If yours has an air pump, remove
it after disconnecting the hose. Also remove
the bypass valve and other related
hardware. As for the alternator, don't remove
it yet as it'll have to be in place for
a little while longer. You can remove its
adjusting bracket and loosen its long
pivot bolt.
A/C-compressor/power-steering-pump
setup on a 460-powered Lincoln Mark IV.
Rotary compressor is mounted topside on a
common bracket with power-steering
pump. Regardless of pump type and location,
basics are the same.
Don't Forget the Filler Tube and Ground
Straps-Two easy things to overlook until
your engine ceases to move as you're
pulling it out are the automatic-transmission
filler tube and the engine ground
straps. The filler tube and a ground strap
(usually only one) are normally attached
to the rear of the right cylinder head by a
common bolt. If two bolts are used, remove
the one retaining the filler tube. As
for the ground strap, it'll be easier to disconnect
it from the firewall rather than
the engine. Put it back on the firewall
after you have the engine out just so it
doesn't get forgotten or lost between now
and when you replace your engine.
Clutch Linkage-With a standard transmission
using a rod-and-lever clutch linkage,
you have some more up-top work.
Some models use a return spring which
attaches between the top of the equalizer
bar and the firewall-disconnect it. Parallel
to the spring is a pushrod extending
through the firewall to the top of the
equalizer bar. Disconnect it at the equalizer,
being careful not to lose the bushing
and retaining clip. If it looks worn out,
count on replacing it. However, to keep