How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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Radlators can be heavy like this bigcapaclty truck unlt. Llft yours out carefully so as not to damage the fins-they bend easily. With radiator out of the way, fan removal is easy. A light tap on its end will loosen a stuck fan spacer. Disconnectina the carburetor linkage. Cable-type thiottle llnkages pop rlght off by uslng a screwdriver llke I'm dolng here. Put any clips you removed back on carburetor to avoid losing them. Look at all that "spaghetti." Masking-tape "flags" with hose or wire locations written on them make engine installation a whole lot easier. If your power-steering cooler is mounted to the top of the A/C compressor, you'll have to work it out from under the A/C lines before removing the pump. Power-steering pump, lines and cooler can be removed from the engine and laid over to-the side out of the way. Make sure pump sits right-side up so fluid doesn't drain out. Throttle Linkage-It will either be the rod-and-lever type or the cable type. IF your engine is equipped with the rod-andlever linkage, disconnect it from the carburetor, then wire it out of the way to the dash panel (firewall). On cable types, disconnect the cable at the carburetor also and pinch the tabs or remove the retaining screw at the manifold bracket so the cable can be withdrawn. If your engine is backed up with an automatic transmission, also disconnect the TV rod, or transmission kick-down rod from the carburetor. Wire it up out of the way also. Replace the clips on the carburetor so they don't get lost. They are special, consequently you could have a difficult time finding replacements. When removing last A/C-compressor mounting bolt, be ready to handle 25 pounds. Lay compressor aside, or tie it up out of the way. ENGINE REMOVAL 15
ENGINE REMOVAL Don't Trust Your Memory-Use a camera and/or some masking tape. Label each hose and wire before disconnecting it. Disconnect all the hoses and wires from the top of the engine. There'll be a hose from the power-brake booster to the intake manifold, or one to a vacuum manifold mounted on the firewall and many smaller hoses, depending on the year and how your vehicle is equipped. An enginewiring harness usually lays along the inboard flange of the left valve cover, held by clips under two or three valve-cover bolts. Disconnect the harness leads from the oil-pressure sending unit, water-temperature sending unit, coil and/or distributor, A/C compressor clutch and any emission-related devices. Remove the harness with the valve-cover clips, or if they are the type which bend over for retention, bend them open to release the harness. Disconnect the heater hoses. Plan on replacing them if they are more than twoyears old. ACCESSORY REMOVAL Pulleys and Belts-Engine accessories can be the most difficult part of removing and replacing an engine. Loosen all the belts and remove them. This will free the water-pump pulley, but you may not be able to remove it if your engine has a three-belt accessory-drive system. You'll have to remove the crank pulley first. After the crank-pulley bolts are out, tap on the backside of the pulley using a rubber or plastic mallet to loosen it. The pulley pilots over the center of the crankshaft damper, so it may be a little tight. The water-pump pulley will now be free to come off. A/C Compressor and Power-Steering Pump-I'll describe an engine with a complete array of accessories, so disregard those areas which don't apply to your engine. Start with the A/C compressor and power-steering pump. Remove the triangular bracket which sometimes is installed between the compressor and the power-steering brackets. With this bracket out of the way you'll be able to see most of the power-steering bracket bolts. Before removing the A/C compressor, you'll have to remove the power-steering pump and its bracket because it mounts to the bottom compressor bracket. Unbolt the pump bracket from the block, being careful to support the pump right-side up to prevent fluid loss. Leave the hoses connected to the pump and set the pump aside. Wire it to the left-front fender apron if you can't position the pump so it won't fall over and spill its fluid. Avoid Disconnecting the A/C Hoses- Here's where you can save time, trouble and money. Rather than disconnecting the A/C-compressor hoses for removing the compressor from the engine compartment, set it aside like the power-steering pump. This avoids the need to recharge the A/C system after you've reinstalled your engine. Begin removing the compressor from the engine by first removing the upper support bracket-the one that also mounts the adjustable idler pulley. Follow this up by unbolting the compressor and lower bracket from the front of the engine as an assembly, then lay it to the side out of the way. If your engine compartment is small, such as the Mustang's or Cougar's, you'll need to get the compressor and its lines up out of the way. Support the compressor from the left fender with a strong cord tied to a bent nail. Tie the free end of the cord to a bolt threaded into the compressor. Lift the compressor and bracket high on the fender apron, then hook the nail to the wheel-opening flange with a rag or a piece of cardboard under the nail. This will keep the paint from " being damaged. Tie the cord short enough to support the compressor high and out of your way. Alternator and Air Pump-The left-front side of your engine now should be bare, so shift your attention to the opposite side. There will be an alternator, and possibly, an air pump-used with Ford's Thermactor emission-control system. One will be mounted above the other, but which way depends on the year and model. If yours has an air pump, remove it after disconnecting the hose. Also remove the bypass valve and other related hardware. As for the alternator, don't remove it yet as it'll have to be in place for a little while longer. You can remove its adjusting bracket and loosen its long pivot bolt. A/C-compressor/power-steering-pump setup on a 460-powered Lincoln Mark IV. Rotary compressor is mounted topside on a common bracket with power-steering pump. Regardless of pump type and location, basics are the same. Don't Forget the Filler Tube and Ground Straps-Two easy things to overlook until your engine ceases to move as you're pulling it out are the automatic-transmission filler tube and the engine ground straps. The filler tube and a ground strap (usually only one) are normally attached to the rear of the right cylinder head by a common bolt. If two bolts are used, remove the one retaining the filler tube. As for the ground strap, it'll be easier to disconnect it from the firewall rather than the engine. Put it back on the firewall after you have the engine out just so it doesn't get forgotten or lost between now and when you replace your engine. Clutch Linkage-With a standard transmission using a rod-and-lever clutch linkage, you have some more up-top work. Some models use a return spring which attaches between the top of the equalizer bar and the firewall-disconnect it. Parallel to the spring is a pushrod extending through the firewall to the top of the equalizer bar. Disconnect it at the equalizer, being careful not to lose the bushing and retaining clip. If it looks worn out, count on replacing it. However, to keep
Page 1 and 2: HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3: Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7: DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9: A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11: may be causing the problem at this
Page 12 and 13: ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15: To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 18 and 19: emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 20 and 21: ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
Page 22 and 23: ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25: get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27: Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29: When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31: 351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
Page 32 and 33: I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35: pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37: PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39: 4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41: Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43: Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45: You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47: cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49: them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51: If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53: 5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55: After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57: 0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59: Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61: Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63: If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65: Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67:
while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69:
When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71:
Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73:
Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75:
New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77:
CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79:
anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81:
CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83:
The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
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will be sealed the first time the v
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or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89:
Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91:
Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
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This is the part of engine building
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.,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
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If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99:
BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101:
Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105:
Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
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Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
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A simple check to make sure pistons
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metal cover. You can tap the seal i
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Install water pump before the seale
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Carefully fit oil pan on block and
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Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
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Installing early stamped-steel rock
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lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
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12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
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LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
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- 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
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I - Real-life removal of top distrl
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- Slide gear on the shaft while kee
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housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137:
Begin carburetor teardown by removi
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You're now ready for the last big o
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Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143:
spots, creating little bumps on the
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4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147:
_- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149:
TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
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P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153:
If your choke has a clip for routin
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- R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
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starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159:
After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161:
Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
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