How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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I - Real-life removal of top distrlbutor-shaft bushing with a hydraulic press. Note support under housing. To remove the top bushing, invert the housing and support it as in the sketch. It's advisable to remove this bushing with a press because of the additional force required, and because the housing could be damaged. Regardless of how you remove it, press or hammer, you need a punch large enough to bear on the bottom of the bushing, but no larger than a 112-inch diameter, and long enough to reach down in the housing. If you drive the bushing out, be careful!. Clean-Up and Inspection-Clean all the parts. An old brush and a bucket, or a can of cleaning solvent or lacquer thinner are perfect for this job. Be careful not to remove your locating marks from the cam, springs and centrifugal weights. Inspect all the parts. The shaft should look pretty good, but polish it with some worn 400-grit emery cloth to give it a new look. Mike the worn and unworn shaft diameters and compare the results. If it's worn more than 0.001 inch, replace it. As for the cam, feel the peak of the lobes across their width. If you feel any distinguishable ridge from the breakerpoint rub block, replace the cam, Otherwise, it's OK. Check the movable breakerplate pivot and bushing if you haven't done so already. REASSEMBLING THE PIECES After cleaning, inspecting and obtaining any parts you'll need for reassembling your distributor it's time to retrace your steps. Basically all that has to be done is to reverse the teardown process, but with considerably more care. Disassemble breaker plate by removing C-clip from pivot. There'll be a flat washer and wave washer under C-clip and three nylon buttons between movable and fixed plates. Be careful, they are easy to lose. Install the Shaft Bushingls-Begin distributor assembly by installing the bushings in the housing. Install the bottom one first-Ford C5AZ-12132-A-by standing the housing upside down and driving or pressing the bushing squarely in its bore using a 518-inch diameter punch. When the bushing feels solid as you're driving it in, it should be at the bottom of its couriterbore and flush with the bottom of the housing. Turn the housing over to install the top bushing-Ford B8HQ-12 120-A, or C5AZ-12120-A with dual points. Lubr'lcate the bushing .and center it over its bore. Use a punch between the press ram or your hammer, and drive the bushing in straight until it stops at the bottom of its counterbore. Burnish the Bushings-To make the bushing IDS as smooth as possible, they should be burnished. This is normally done with a burnishing tool, however these are not commonly available, so use a 15132-inch diameter ream. With the ream well oiled, turn it backwards in the bushings-opposite from the direction you turn it for reaming. This will smooth out any burrs or irregularities in the bushing bore/s without removing any material. Install the Shaft-Oil the distributor shaft and slide it into place. It should rotate freely. Secure it by sliding the collarflanged end first-onto the shaft. Line up the roll-pin hole with the one in the shaft. It's drilled off-center, so you may have to rotate the collar to line it up. If you are installing a new shaft, you'll have to drill an 118-inch roll-pin hole. To set the correct end-play, drill a new hole through the collar and the shaft 90" to the original hole with a 0.024-inch feeler gage inserted between the collar and the housing. This will set the end-play. Drive the roll pin into place after you've lined up the holes. Install the drive gear next. Start the hub end on after lining up the roll-pin holes. This should be done first because the gear will be too difficult to turn once it's on the shaft. If you've installed a new shaft, you'll have to drill a new 118-inch hole. Do this after you've located the gear 4-1/32 inches below the bottom of the housing mounting flange-just above the O-ring groove-to the bottom of the gear. Install the roll pin and you're finished with the bottom gnd of your distributor. Assemble the Centrifugal-Advance Mechanism-Gather centrifugal-advance pieces in preparation for reassembling them. Start by spreading a light filni of moly grease on the weight pivots, then install the weights using your marks to determine their locations. Secure the weights with C-clips. Lubricate the upper end of the shaft by filling the grooves with moly grease, then slide the thrust washer into vlace over the shaft. Lubricate the bottom of the cam or sleeve and install it so the advance-limiting tab projects up through the correct notch at the edge of the cam or sleeve plate. Use your marks as reference. Check to make sure the Hypalon sleeve is in place on the tab. Again using your marks, install the advance-return springs between the shaft and cam or sleeve mountings. Attach them at the shaft plate first, then to the cam or shaft pin. Be careful not to stretch
Checking breaker-plate-pivot bushlng wear. Loose-assemble movable breaker plate to baseplate. If it feels loose as you try sliding plate from side-to-side and wiggling it, bushing is worn out and breakerplate must be replaced. You can get this and some change for a ten-dollar blii at your Ford dealer. Beats laying out the cash for a complete distributor. Position bottom bushing squarely over its bore, then drive it in until it bottoms. I'm using a soft punch to avoid damaging bushing ID. Lubricate OD of top bushing, then drive it into place. A press would be better, but a soft punch and hammer will work. Just be careful not to damage bushing bore. 400-grit cloth being used to remove varnish and restore shaft's original polish. Oil shaft, then install it in housing. ,3 Pin holes in shaft, collar and gear are drilled off-center. Line them up before assembling them, particularly the gear. It's practically impossible to move the gear once it's on. Use a block of wood to support the collar while installing its roll pin. Clearance between collar and housing should not exceed 0.035 inch. I'm pushing down on the housng with the assembly supported by the shaft while clearance is measured.
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HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3:
Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7:
DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9:
A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11:
may be causing the problem at this
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ect, particularly if there appears
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To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17:
Radlators can be heavy like this bi
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emove the compressor and have a sys
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ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
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ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
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get on with the physical makeup of
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Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29:
When sifting through your local scr
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351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
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I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35:
pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37:
PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39:
4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41:
Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43:
Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45:
You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47:
cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49:
them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51:
If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53:
5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55:
After you've cleaned out the head-
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0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59:
Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61:
Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63:
If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65:
Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67:
while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69:
When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71:
Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73:
Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75:
New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77:
CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79:
anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83: The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85: will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91: Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93: This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95: .,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97: If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99: BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101: Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105: Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107: Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109: A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111: metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113: Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115: Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117: Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119: Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121: lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125: 12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127: LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129: - 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 132 and 133: - Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135: housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137: Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139: You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141: Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143: spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145: 4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147: _- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149: TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151: P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153: If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155: - R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157: starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159: After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161: Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162: HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
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