How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

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may be causing the problem at this pointa leaky head gasket and/or a valve. If two cylinders are down on pressure and they are adjacent to one another, chances are good the problem is a blown head gasket between the cylinders. It could still be a head gasket even if only one cylinder is affected. A blown gasket is nearly always accompanied by an unusual amount of coolant loss from the radiator as cylinder pressure will leak into the cooling system. This situation is easy to diagnose. Remove your radiator cap and look at the coolant while your engine is running and warming up. If cylinder pressure is escaping into it, you'll see bubbles. Before making this check, make sure your coolant level is up to the mark. If you see bubbles, smell the coolant. You should be able to detect gasoline or exhaust fumes as the bubbles surface and burst if they are caused by a blown head gasket. A sure way to test for this is to take your car to a professional who has a device which "sniffs" the coolant, It indicates whether or not the bubbles are cylinder gases and not just recirculating air bubbles. If vou determine it is a bad gasket, you'll have to remove a head to replace it. Use the procedures outlined in the engine teardown and assembly chapters for this job. Check the head and block surfaces for flatness. Fix any problems or you may end up having to repeat the job. Now for the valves. If you didn't find your compression-loss problem with the piston rings or a head gasket, the last probable culprit will be a valve/s. There are numerous reasons for valves leaking. A valve may not be fully closing or it may be burned. Both result in an unsealed combustion chamber. If a fully closed valve leaks, it's probably burned. So check for full closure first. Unless the problem is severe, you'll need vernier calipers or a dial indicator. Pull off the valve covers and locate the cylinder you want-to check. It should be on TDC (top dead center) just at the beginning of its power stroke-not between its exhaust and intake stroke. This ensures both valves should be fully closed. To do this, trace the spark-plug leads of the cylinders you are going to check in the distributor. Put a mark/s on the distributor body in line with the terminals on the distributor cap. Remove the cap. When you crank your engine over and line up the distributor rotor with the mark on the distributor, you'll know the cylinder will be reasonably near TDC on its power stroke. If both valves are fully closed, you 429CJ and SCJ VACUUM LEAK Here's a problem that can frustrate the best mechanic, and the solution can't be found in any shop manual. The problem is with the 429CJ and SCJ end cylinders-numbers 1, 4, 5 and 8. They won't fire at idle with the valve covers removed, only when RPM is increased. Chances are you won't run into this problem if you have a CJ. However, because SCJ's valves require hot lashing, you obviously have to run your engine without the valve covers. It will idle rough with one off and won't run at idle with both off! The reason is the end, or corner cylinders, fire in sequence-8, 1, 5,4-compounding the problem. Four fire, then four don't. The cause of this problem is a vacuum leak. I'll bet you think it has something to do with the valve covers being off You're right. The 429CJ/ SCJ intake ports are so large that the end valve-cover bolt holes in the top row are not blind like those in the standard 4291460 head. They go straight through into the number -1, -4, -5, -8 intake ports as shown in the photo on page 33. This creates a huge vacuum leak when one of these bolts is removed. The fuel charge is leaned so much at low RPM that it won't fire. Thread the bolts back in while the engine is running-valve cover or nota' and the cylinders start firing. So, before running your 429CJ or SCJ without its valve covers, thread the bolts back in the holes immediately above the end intake ports. should be able to rotate the pushrods with your fingers. It's unlikely the cam is holding a valve open unless the valves have been misadjusted. I know of no instances where valve adjustment has gotten tighter. If adjustment changes, it gets looser. If the pushrod rotates, the rocker arm has unloaded the valve, so it is free to close. If it won't rotate, first check to make sure that cylinder is at TDC, ready to start the power stroke, then back off on the adjustment using the procedure in the engine assembly chapter. Checking valve lift by measuring how much a valve spring compresses from the fullopen position to its closed position confirms whether or not your cam is in good shape. Refer to the chart when checking your valves. One thing to be aware of is your engine probably does not have adjustable valves. Rather, it will use positive-stop rocker-arm studs or pedestal pivots unless your engine is a 351C Boss, 351C HO, 429 SCJ or 429 CJ built before 10-18-69. These engines had adjustable valves. Otherwise your valves must be adjusted using pushrods which vary k 0.060 in. from the standard pushrod length. These special pushrods should not be required except during a jebuild when major machining is done such as valve face and seat grinding, or head and block resurfacing. A word of caution, if your valve train is the same as what was installed at the factory it will have hydraulic lifters-unless you have a 35 1 C Boss, HO or a 429 SCJ. Hydraulic lifters load the pushrods slightly, making them a little hard to turn. Therefore, don't let this fool you into thinking the valve in question is open. If your engine is equipped with a mechanical cam, the pushrods will be loose. That's why mechanical-cam engines are noisy. They are loose because the required clearance, or lash, is about 0.020 in. when hotas opposed to the zero lash of hydraulic lifters. CHECKING VALVE LIFT If all the valves appear to be closing as just described, check the pushrods to see if they are too loose. If one is, it could mean a valve is hanging up in its guide,
10 DIAGNOSIS Using a dial indlcator to measure camshaft lobe lift dlrectly is more accurate than checklng at the valve. preventing it from fully closing. To confirm this, you'll have to use your dial indicator to get an accurate reading on actual valve lift. The depth-gage end of a vernier caliper will work if you don't have a dial indicator, but it's not as easy to use. If you don't have either of these, use a 6-in. rule with a slide for measuring depth. It's not accurate, nor is it very easy to use, but you've got to use what you have. If your engine has hydraulic lifters, make sure they are primed by cranking the engine. Then the valves will be getting as much lift as the cam can provide. Bump your engine over until the valve you're checking is fully opened, compressing its valve spring. If you are using a dial indicator, set the indicator plunger against the top of the spring retainer and in line with the valve stem so you'll get a true reading, and zero the indicator. If you're using a vernier caliper or scale, measure from the spring-pad surface-where the spring sits on the cylinder head-to the top of the spring retainer. Record the measurement. Bump the engine over until you can rotate the pushrod, indicating the valve is closed, and remeasure. You can read valve opening directly with the dial indicator. Repeat this a couple of times to make sure your figures - are cor- VALVE JOBS AND HIGH-MILEAGE ENGINES Doing a valve job on a relatively highmileage engine may not solve its oilconsumption problem as an engine's parts wear at the same time. As the sealing quality of the valves becomes less, the same thing is happening to the rings and pistons. After the cylinder heads are reconditioned, they will seal better, creating higher compression and vacuum loads on the rings and pistons. Where the rings and pistons were doing an adequate job before, they may not be able to seal satisfactorily after a valve job. Consequently, increased oil consumption and blowly may result. So beware of the valve-job-only solution. CAMSHAFT LIFT [Inches) Intake Exhaust Engine Year @ Lifter @ Valve c@ Lifter @ Valve 351 C-2V 70-74 0.235 0.407 0.235 0.407 351 C-4V 70 0.247 0.427 0.247 0.427 351C-4V 71-72 0.247 0.427 0.247 0.427 351 C-4V 73-74 0.277 0.480 0.283 0.490 "351 C Boss 71 (0.290) 0.477 (0.290) 0.477 "351 C HO 72 (0.298) 0.491 (0.298) 0.491 351C CJ 71 0.277 0.480 0.277 0.488 351 M 75-79 0.235 0.407 0.235 0.407 351 M Truck 77-79 0.250 0.433 0.250 0.433 400 71-79 0.247 0.427 0.250 0.433 400 Truck 77-79 0.250 0.433 0.250 0.433 429 68-69 0.278 0.486 0.278 0.486 429 70-73 0.253 0.443 0.278 0.486 460 68-69 0.278 0.486 0.278 0.486 460 70-79 0.253 0.443 0.278 0.486 460 Calif. 72 0.253 0.443 0.245 0.424 429CJ 70-71 0.289 0.506 0.289 0.506 "429SCJ 70-71 0.298 0.509 0.298 0.509 * Mechanical cam (solid lifters). Lift shown in parentheses is approximate.
Page 1 and 2: HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3: Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7: DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9: A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 12 and 13: ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15: To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17: Radlators can be heavy like this bi
Page 18 and 19: emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 20 and 21: ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
Page 22 and 23: ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25: get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27: Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29: When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31: 351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
Page 32 and 33: I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35: pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37: PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39: 4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41: Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43: Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45: You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47: cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49: them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51: If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53: 5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55: After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57: 0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59: Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61:
Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63:
If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65:
Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67:
while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69:
When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71:
Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73:
Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75:
New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77:
CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79:
anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81:
CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83:
The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85:
will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87:
or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89:
Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91:
Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93:
This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95:
.,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 96 and 97:
If you are installing a new or regr
Page 98 and 99:
BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101:
Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105:
Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107:
Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109:
A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111:
metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113:
Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115:
Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117:
Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119:
Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121:
lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125:
12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127:
LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129:
- 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131:
I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133:
- Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135:
housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137:
Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139:
You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141:
Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143:
spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145:
4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147:
_- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149:
TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151:
P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153:
If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155:
- R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157:
starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159:
After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161:
Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
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