How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

More documents

Recommendations

Info

If you are installing a new or reground camshaft, remove drive pin from old camshaft before turning it in as a core. Replacement cams usually don't Include the pin. Remove yours by clamping on it with Vise-Grips and working it out. Camshaft and cam-drive-assembly components. Two-piece fuel-pump cam is used on later-model engines. Front, or center piece clamps tightly against cam sprocket, leaving outer ring free to rotate. Photo courtesy Ford. known as moly-disulfide, comes in. Dow Corning's Molykote G-N paste is readily available in 2.8-oz. tubes, or if you're installing cams for a living get it in pint cans. Valvoline's moly-disulfide is Special Moly EP Grease. Before installing the cam, wipe the cam bearings clean with lacquer thinner and a paper towel, then oil them well. Wipe the oil around the bearings with your fingertip. Do the same thing with the bearing journals. Apply moly grease evenly to all lobes and you're ready to install the cam. Be careful when handling the cam so you don't touch or get any dirt on the lobes. This is especially true if the cam is new because the blackphosphate coating for oil retention also retains other materials which come in contact with the lobes. Install the Cam-Temporarily install the sprocket onto your cam to provide a "handle." With your block on its rear face, feed the cam into place, being careful not to bang the lobes into the bearings. Lobes and bearings are pretty tough, but there is no point in needlessly damaging them when it is easily avoided. You can install the cam about halfway in the block by supporting it by its gear with one hand and by the center bearing journal with the other. To install it the rest of the way, reach inside the block with the hand you had on the bearing journal and carefully feed the cam into the engine until the journals line up with their bearings. Slide it into place. Your camshaft should turn easily by hand. If it doesn't, the realization of why I tried to discourage replacing cam bearings will suddenly hit you between the eyes. Assuming the bearings were installed correctly, the problem will be that their IDS aren't aligned on the same centerline. Consequently, the cam is bound, because little to no clearance exists between some of the cam journals and their bearings. If you run into this problem, you'll have to depend on an experienced engine builder to correct the problem, otherwise you may find yourself in even more trouble. The factory align-bores the cam bearings to true them, whereas the engine builder will probably use the "bluing-and-scraping" technique. Cam-Bearing Clearancing-Scraping bearings simply involves removing bearing material where clearance is needed. Determining areas needing clearanced is done by "bluing" the bearings-applying machinist's blue to the ID of the bearingsthen installing the cam and rotating it a couple of revolutions. Blue is removed from the tight areas needing clearancing. After some material is removed in these areas with a bearing scraper, the bearings are reblued and the camshaft is reinstalled for rechecking. This is a long involved process because only small amounts of bearing material should be removed at a time to prevent over-clearancing. When the cam rotates freely and there are no apparent tight spots, the cam can be installed for good, but not until the block and cam are thoroughly cleaned and relubricated. With the cam in place, install the thrust plate with two 1/4-20, grade-8 bolts. Just make sure the cast-in slots are facing the front cam-bearing journal. Holes in the thrust plate are staggered so you may have to rotate the plate until the holes line up with the threaded holes in the block. Torque the bolts 9-12 ft. lbs. CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION Turn your attention to the crankshaft and its bearings and rear-main oil seal. You'll have to choose bearings based on the size of your main-bearing journals. The rear-main seal comes with your engine's gasket set. Size the Bearings-Refer to your crankshaft inspection record to determine which size bearings to use-standard or 0.010, 0.020, 0.030, etc. undersize. For example, standard main-bearing-journal diameters are: Main-Bearing-Journal Engine Diameter (inch) 2.7484-2.7492 (2.7488 nominal) 2.9994-3.0002 (2.9998 nominal) 2.9994-3.0002 (2.9998 nominal) If your main-bearing journals are in the ENGINE ASSEMBLY 95
- Rather than removing teeth marks from the pin, take advantage of them. They'll help secure the pin in the new cam. So install the pin end-for-end by driving it into place with a punch and hammer. When it bottoms, it's installed. range shown in the chart, you'll obviously use standard bearings. However, if they mike some amount less, you'll need the same amount of undersize bearing as the difference from the standard nominal bearing size. Simply put, if a 351C mainbearing journal mikes 2.7478 inches, the proper undersize bearing to use is 2.788 - 2.7478 = 0.010-inch undersize. So, to determine if and how much of an undersize bearing you need, subtract the diameter of your bearing journals from the standard nominal bearing-journal diameter. There are two types of rear-main bearing seals you can install: the rope and the split-lip types. A rope seal will probably be included in your gasket set. It consists of two pieces of graphite-impregnated rope. The split-lip seal is made from neoprene, also in two pieces. If you want this seal instead of the rope type, you'll have to lay out another three bucks or so. I like the split-lip seal because a rope seal is more difficult to install. And, the rope seal creates more friction, as initially installed, meaning the torque required to turn the crank during assembly will be approximately 10 ft. lbs. more. However, the relative effectiveness of the two seals is the same. Also, the rope seal's initial friction drops off considerably after the first few minutes of engine operation. Install the Main-Bearing Inserts-With the engine block upside down, wipe the bearing bores clean so there won't be any dirt trapped behind the bearing inserts. Wipe them clean using paper towels and a Before installing the camshaft, apply a coat of moly-disulphide (MoS,) to the lobes. Don't skimp here. Put moly on the cam bearings too. Install cam by feeding it through one bearing web at a time. Challenge is to avoid bumping the bearing inserts so they don't get damaged. Control camshaft when installing it by using the loosely Installed drive sprocket. Your cam should rotate easily once installed. Here's how to install a camshaft If your crankshaft is already in place. Feed it in from the front while supporting it with the sprocket. Set the engine on its rear face to make It easier. You'll then have better control of the cam and gravity will be working for, not against you. 3 Bluing and scraping cam bearings-the thing I warned you about possibly having to do. I'm doing the front one here. Center three are tough to do. This is a job for an expert.
Page 1 and 2:
HPBooks How to find out what needs
Page 3:
Introduction This book deals with r
Page 6 and 7:
DIAGNOSIS home and dumping the "ins
Page 8 and 9:
A complete, high-quality tune-up ki
Page 10 and 11:
may be causing the problem at this
Page 12 and 13:
ect, particularly if there appears
Page 14 and 15:
To ensure that your hood will fit a
Page 16 and 17:
Radlators can be heavy like this bi
Page 18 and 19:
emove the compressor and have a sys
Page 20 and 21:
ENGINE REMOVAL 19 - i When jacking
Page 22 and 23:
ENGINE REMOVAL 21 After starter-mot
Page 24 and 25:
get on with the physical makeup of
Page 26 and 27:
Cylinder-block, cranksharr an0 cy~~
Page 28 and 29:
When sifting through your local scr
Page 30 and 31:
351C Boss, '71 CJ, HO '72-74 4V CYL
Page 32 and 33:
I I Pop-up '71 351C Boss piston and
Page 34 and 35:
pushrod-guided aspect comes in. Thi
Page 36 and 37:
PARTS 35 Compression ratio is deter
Page 38 and 39:
4291460-Standard 429 and 460 cylind
Page 40 and 41:
Tearing down your engine is the fir
Page 42 and 43:
Remove engine-lifting lugs and exha
Page 44 and 45:
You'll need a puller to remove the
Page 46 and 47: cam sprocket and chain, and then th
Page 48 and 49: them; they'll tell you a story. Bea
Page 50 and 51: If you are removing your cam bearin
Page 52 and 53: 5 Inspecting and Reconditioning the
Page 54 and 55: After you've cleaned out the head-
Page 56 and 57: 0.020 inch, the next available over
Page 58 and 59: Checking deck-surface flatness with
Page 60 and 61: Cross-hatch pattern of a freshly ho
Page 62 and 63: If you don't have a snap gage, here
Page 64 and 65: Using grease and some machined roun
Page 66 and 67: while your micrometer is handy, do
Page 68 and 69: When measuring piston diameter, do
Page 70 and 71: Using a piston ring and a feeler ga
Page 72 and 73: Five- and four-plate timing chains
Page 74 and 75: New oil-pump drive shaft above and
Page 76 and 77: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 75 If
Page 78 and 79: anything from a cardboard box to a
Page 80 and 81: CYLINDER-HEAD RECONDITIONING 79 . .
Page 82 and 83: The K-Line bronze valve-guide inser
Page 84 and 85: will be sealed the first time the v
Page 86 and 87: or 68 lbs. in this case. If a sprin
Page 88 and 89: Uslng a short sectlon of wlre cut a
Page 90 and 91: Except for rocker arms and fulcrums
Page 92 and 93: This is the part of engine building
Page 94 and 95: .,., ....., ,. ,., .,. . .,. differ
Page 98 and 99: BEARING-CLEARANCE CHECKING ROTATING
Page 100 and 101: Large socket and brass hammer being
Page 102 and 103: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 101 in the caps, po
Page 104 and 105: Section of an oil-ring assembly. Le
Page 106 and 107: Piston-and-rod assemblies lined up
Page 108 and 109: A simple check to make sure pistons
Page 110 and 111: metal cover. You can tap the seal i
Page 112 and 113: Install water pump before the seale
Page 114 and 115: Carefully fit oil pan on block and
Page 116 and 117: Yes, 429/460 head bolts are differe
Page 118 and 119: Installing early stamped-steel rock
Page 120 and 121: lnstalllng the Intake-manifold end
Page 122 and 123: ENGINE ASSEMBLY 121 With the gasket
Page 124 and 125: 12-15 ft. lbs. 4291460 has a horizo
Page 126 and 127: LUBRICATING WICK- Centrifugal weigh
Page 128 and 129: - 1 I Magnetic-pickup retaining cli
Page 130 and 131: I - Real-life removal of top distrl
Page 132 and 133: - Slide gear on the shaft while kee
Page 134 and 135: housing with the remaining screw. I
Page 136 and 137: Begin carburetor teardown by removi
Page 138 and 139: You're now ready for the last big o
Page 140 and 141: Install standard-transmission front
Page 142 and 143: spots, creating little bumps on the
Page 144 and 145: 4 - -- - - - - - \ 2 ~ ---- I nrr:
Page 146 and 147:
_- PASSENGER CAR KICKDOWN ROD 10-25
Page 148 and 149:
TOOTH MUST BE PERFECTLY ALIGNED WIT
Page 150 and 151:
P'. Object here is to ger rnar rlrs
Page 152 and 153:
If your choke has a clip for routin
Page 154 and 155:
- R ENGINE INSTALLATION 153 ~ Cross
Page 156 and 157:
starts turning and the rest of the
Page 158 and 159:
After putting a few hundred miles o
Page 160 and 161:
Index A AIC compressor 152- 153 bac
Page 162:
HP AUTO BOOKS MAKE YOU THE PRO! I H
show all

How To Rebuild Your Ford V-8 351C-351M-400-429-460.pdf - Index of

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?