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THE GREAT SYNAGOGUE<br />

By Yakov Hetman<br />

The Great Synagogue was the glory of the city and<br />

source of its pridethough not the center of its<br />

religious life. The Jews of the city pointed from<br />

afar to the fortifications surrounding it, to the<br />

slope of its thick wallsbut they did not hurry<br />

inside. It had majesty and mystery and even<br />

ceremonybut no warmth. To the non-Jews this<br />

was the representative synagoguebut to the<br />

Jews it was a minor place of worship.<br />

During the week no one prayed there, and<br />

only on the Sabbath were its doors opened wide,<br />

though only a few minyanim [groups of ten men<br />

for prayer] came. The regular worshippers were<br />

largely the common folks, and there were very<br />

few householders (baaley batim). This was also<br />

the only place in the city where the service was<br />

conducted according to the Ashkenazic rite,<br />

whereas in the rest of the places of worship they<br />

prayed in "Sephardic" style, according to Chasidic<br />

custom.<br />

But in spite of this, and sometimes unconsciously,<br />

the synagogue was the symbol of the<br />

greatness of the Jewish community in the town<br />

and the place for mass gatheringsin times of<br />

trouble and sadness, festivity and mourning.<br />

During holidays and festivals, and on those days<br />

when the "congregation should be called together,"<br />

people instinctively came to the Great<br />

Synagogue.<br />

The Great Synagogue was a brick structure of<br />

mammoth proportions, basically square, and there<br />

were windows about two stories high looking out<br />

of the thick walls. Above stood an encircling parapet<br />

with turrets in the middle, each one with two<br />

round holes. The whole building resembled an<br />

ancient fortress, and it was obvious to all that the<br />

round openings served as firing slots for the<br />

145<br />

defenders of the fort.<br />

The synagogue was located in the center of<br />

town, at one corner of the marketplace. Its frontthe<br />

eastern side, facing the marketwas separated<br />

from the market by houses belonging to the<br />

Getman-Hetman, Natanson, and Shapiro familiesthough<br />

the top of the synagogue looked out<br />

above these houses and could be seen from afar.<br />

From the three other sides, there were no<br />

houses close to the building and it was possible<br />

to pass close to it except for a fenced-off section<br />

on the southern side.<br />

The entrance to the synagogue was through<br />

the poolish [anteroom], with doors on the north<br />

and south. Outside, next to the southern door of<br />

the poolish, they used to set up the chuppah on<br />

Friday afternoons for young couples being married,<br />

and inside the northern gate was the genizah,<br />

where all the tattered remnants of unusable holy<br />

books, outworn tefillin [phylacteries], etc., were<br />

brought.<br />

Within the poolish, on the synagogue's western<br />

wall, was the grand entrance in the shape of<br />

a high, broad arch resting on grand pillarsand<br />

the heavy, double wooden door, fortified with<br />

thick iron plates. The key to this door was no<br />

ordinary key, but a rather solid piece of metal, a<br />

foot long, and whoever was entrusted with it was<br />

the classic "key keeper."<br />

And here, precisely next to the main<br />

entryway, one stopped momentarily to glance at<br />

the alms box, of which we could see only the<br />

outer metal door and the large lock that fastened<br />

it. Secondly, one looked to see whether any non-<br />

Jewish farmers and their families who had come<br />

to pray to the Jewish God in times of trouble were<br />

leaning against the wallsfor it was a known fact

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