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ments from the Temple [in Jerusalem]. And more<br />

beautiful than all the restthe doors to the Holy<br />

Ark, whose decorations reached all the way to the<br />

ceiling.<br />

We were also proud and boasted about the<br />

beautiful lectern (balemer) in the center of the<br />

synagogue. Its four carved hexagonal pillars<br />

reached upwards to the domed ceiling, and from<br />

it copper chains descended, with huge crystal<br />

chandeliers that flickered in a rainbow of colors.<br />

It was an impressive sight when a procession of<br />

Torahs ascended the stairs to the high lectern as<br />

the entire congregation stood by.<br />

The walls and high arching windows on three<br />

sides also made a special impression. We were<br />

amazed by the force of the acoustics in the synagogue,<br />

and when we had a chance to remain there<br />

alone we would shout and wait excitedly for the<br />

echo that came to us from all directions.<br />

On the other hand, we were afraid to pass<br />

close to the synagogue alone at nightthe "time<br />

when the souls of the departed came to the<br />

synagogue for prayer and the reading of the<br />

Torah."<br />

The Surroundings<br />

The city was located on a broad flat plain, which<br />

spread out for miles and was covered by thick<br />

forests of pine and fir trees in the areas where the<br />

ground was lighter and sandier, and birch trees,<br />

beeches, ashes, poplars, and oaks in heavier,<br />

damper ground. Brooks and lakes filled with<br />

various sorts of fish, among them the famous Lake<br />

Shvitazh, were spread out along the northern and<br />

northwestern segments of the area, bordering on<br />

the swamps and forests of Polesia (southwestern<br />

Belorussia). About 7 to 9 miles from the city, the<br />

river Bug meandered, forming the border between<br />

western Ukraine and Poland.<br />

Most of the soil in the area was thin and light,<br />

which mainly supported the growth of rye, barley,<br />

spelt, millet, and potatoes, and of course, there<br />

was abundant pasture land. There was very little<br />

heavier, richer soil on which wheat, flax, oats,<br />

and other crops grew. In a few places there were<br />

orchards of fruit trees, especially apples, plums,<br />

and pears. The city itself excelled in a great<br />

number of gardens with fruit trees, a few belonging<br />

to Jews, most of them to the residents of the<br />

THE EARLY DAYS 47<br />

suburbs, non-Jews. Especially worthy of praise<br />

was the large garden owned by Kampyoni, which<br />

stretched out over a considerable area of the<br />

eastern part of town.<br />

On the southern edge of town ran the railroad<br />

tracks that were a direct connection between east<br />

and west, from Kiev through Zdolbunov, Rovno,<br />

Kovel, and other towns in the east, and to Chelm,<br />

Lublin, and Warsaw in the west.<br />

On that same side, south of the city, an old<br />

dirt road led south to Vladimir Volinsk (Ludmir),<br />

a distance of 60-65 versts (about 40-43 miles);<br />

on the western edge ran the strategic road that<br />

was paved, it appears, at the end of the previous<br />

century, leading to Brisk of Lithuania (Brest-<br />

Litovsk), 85 miles to the north. Roads wound<br />

from all entrances to the cityall of them wide,<br />

dirt roads, with acacias, plane trees, and willows<br />

growing alongsideand led to the adjacent small<br />

towns and villages.<br />

Streets and Ditches<br />

Though the city itself sits on high ground, during<br />

the rainy season it would drown in sinking mud,<br />

which made travel difficult both for pedestrians<br />

and vehicular trafficthe wagon, of course.<br />

Crossing from house to house and street to<br />

street was accomplished by walking over thin<br />

wooden planks (briklach)stretched out the entire<br />

length of the main streets on both sides. Underneath<br />

were the trenches, for sewage and rainfall,<br />

connected with the main, large drainage ditches<br />

that drew off water to the outskirts of the city.<br />

Those who lived in the low-lying areas had<br />

it particularly hardthe area around the bathhouse<br />

and alleyway of the butcher shops. During<br />

the rainy season the connection with villagesthe<br />

major source of livelihoodwas greatly weakened<br />

or cut off altogether and the townspeople,<br />

who walked around with nothing to do, prayed<br />

and anxiously awaited an improvement in the<br />

weather.<br />

During the First World War an attempt was<br />

made to pave the road with wooden planks by the<br />

Austro-German conquerors, employing refugees<br />

from other occupied territories. This attempt was<br />

halted immediately at the end of the war. In<br />

1919-20, the first roads were paved with crushed<br />

stone in the main thoroughfares of the town.

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