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White paper on creativity - ebla center

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Chapter 5for Issey Miyake in New York, TadaoAndo for the Teatro Giorgio Armani inMilan, and Massimiliano and DorianaFuksas for the Armani emporia inH<strong>on</strong>g K<strong>on</strong>g, Shanghai and Tokyo.Showrooms have aband<strong>on</strong>ed thestrictly commercial spirit to becomeplaces for exchanges, culture, and artswhich boost the brand image.Chain stores, low prices, excellentdesign, low quality: the ItalianweaknessThe most successful segment in thedistributi<strong>on</strong> sector is that for youngpeople, who are offered well-designedmedium to low quality products at lowprices. Examples of brands in this caseare the Spanish Zara and Mango, theSwedish H&M, the French Promod,and the American Gap. However, theyhave met with relatively little success inthe Italian distributi<strong>on</strong> sector which,moreover, produced a leader likeBenett<strong>on</strong>.Exploiting a highly successful formulacombining producti<strong>on</strong> and distributi<strong>on</strong>,these large companies are able to veryeffectively m<strong>on</strong>itor changes in youngc<strong>on</strong>sumers’ tastes and to supplyperipheral sales outlets fast enough tocapture and satisfy all nascent demand.The Zara business model has a numberof specific innovative features. Theyinclude very fast lead times in thedesign of new products (around threeweeks), c<strong>on</strong>tinuous updating <strong>on</strong>proposed lines informed by the salesstatistics and the almost total absenceof any advertising campaigns.Employing over 200 designers, Zara isable to design, produce and distribute acollecti<strong>on</strong> to any shop worldwide twicea week. Sales are made in over 3,000propriety shops in 64 countries,strategically situated in significanturban commercial areas, whose staffdeal at most with the window dressingand the internal display areas. Zara hasalmost 70,000 employees. Retail brandslike Zara and H&M could not existwithout their distributi<strong>on</strong> channels;today H&M has over 1,900 sales pointsin 22 countries and over 50,000employees.If we look at the European scene, wefind no Italian company am<strong>on</strong>g thefirst ten in terms of brand value.WHITE PAPER ON CREATIVITY 122

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