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White paper on creativity - ebla center

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Part IIThe symbolic dimensi<strong>on</strong> and its capacity to capture and seduce the c<strong>on</strong>sumer’s spirit byidentifying the spirit with the message it represents, distances fashi<strong>on</strong> goods from theparadigm of the rati<strong>on</strong>al c<strong>on</strong>sumer. The presence of a symbol modifies the classic termsof trade. Not <strong>on</strong>ly trade based <strong>on</strong> the rati<strong>on</strong>ality of the mechanism of prices andoptimisati<strong>on</strong> of profits, but trade presupposing an emoti<strong>on</strong>al and identity-giving choice,made independently of the calculati<strong>on</strong> of the costs and benefits of an acti<strong>on</strong>.Time-specific and space-specific goodsThe ec<strong>on</strong>omic behaviour of the market is, as we said, basically founded <strong>on</strong> n<strong>on</strong>-specifictimeless and spaceless goods. The market thus becomes an imperfect instituti<strong>on</strong>, as forexample, when it has to regulate goods based <strong>on</strong> <strong>creativity</strong>, such as fashi<strong>on</strong>, design andart goods. The more a good is time- and space-specific, the less the market worksefficiently in regulating producti<strong>on</strong> and c<strong>on</strong>sumpti<strong>on</strong>. The more the good is time-andspace-specific, the less the system of prices is able to offer relevant informati<strong>on</strong> and theless likely competiti<strong>on</strong> can achieve the expected results.The reference to space/time inevitably takes us to the successive generati<strong>on</strong>s of artistsand talents in given cities and areas. In fact many of the modern material culture goodsare generati<strong>on</strong>al goods. The <strong>creativity</strong> of a generati<strong>on</strong> of stylists is expressed in the timeand space defined by a period or place or city. This anchoring to the generati<strong>on</strong>s andtheir evoluti<strong>on</strong> prefigures, as we will see, the problem of generati<strong>on</strong>al changeover as<strong>on</strong>e of the great issues in the world of fashi<strong>on</strong> and design.Goods with semiotic characteristics: signs from matterMaterial culture goods increasingly have semiotic features. In additi<strong>on</strong> to their directutility linked to the substantial features of a good, they also have an indirect utility assemiophoric goods, i.e. carriers of meaning.The demand from clothing is primarily linked to the features of clothes as comfortable,light, resistant or aesthetic. We can immediately point out, however, that these criteria,especially if aesthetic, change in time. Moreover, al<strong>on</strong>gside aesthetic features, or inrelati<strong>on</strong> to them, are features expressing meanings. Nike shoes are not <strong>on</strong>ly useful asfootwear but signify that I am young, trendy, informal and informed and they havebeen designed to communicate these meanings. The demand for fashi<strong>on</strong> is a demandfor symbol and meaning, more than simply for practical clothing. Moreover, in oursocieties, the need for meaning may be more important than that for functi<strong>on</strong> –especially in the case of food or clothing – without this being a reas<strong>on</strong> for c<strong>on</strong>sidering itas a perverse or artificial demand.WHITE PAPER ON CREATIVITY 88

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