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Macro Photography<br />

In the Canon EOS system, going beyond 1:1 is as simple as calling up one <strong>of</strong> the photo.net recommended retailers and ordering a Canon<br />

MP-E 65 1X-5X macro lens. Mount lens on tripod, mount camera on lens, twist ring on lens, release shutter:<br />

(Flower interior at above left was captured with a traditional EOS film body; the jelly bean image at above right was taken with a D30<br />

digital body.)<br />

Beyond 1:1 with Nikon, et al<br />

Going beyond 1:1 requires more than buying a Micro-Nikkor and turning the focusing helical. In fact, you probably should read a real<br />

book by a real macro photographer. [Bob Atkins likes John Shaw's Close-ups in Nature .]<br />

Here's a basic introduction to the tools, though...<br />

First, you can get a bellows (flexible accordion) and/or some extension tubes. These will let you push the lens farther away from the<br />

camera body. Extension tubes are rigid and tough; they only let you separate your body and lens in fixed increments. Bellows are<br />

delicate but they let you continuously control the lens distance from the body. How much magnification this extra extension will get<br />

you depends on the focal length <strong>of</strong> the lens. If you have a 1000mm lens that already needs its nodal point 1000mm from the film plane<br />

to focus at infinity, then a 50mm extension tube isn't going to be worth much. However, if you have a 50mm lens, then that same 50mm<br />

extension will take you all the way to 1:1.<br />

Second, you probably want a "reversing ring" for your lenses so that you can turn the back element <strong>of</strong> the lens toward your subject.<br />

Why? Think about the normal way you use a lens. You are taking a picture <strong>of</strong> the Statue <strong>of</strong> Liberty. The Statue <strong>of</strong> Liberty is larger than<br />

24x36mm. So you point the front element <strong>of</strong> the lens at the statue and the back element at the (smaller) film. Your lens is designed to<br />

work like this, taking the large and compressing it into the small. However, if you are working at 10:1, where the tip <strong>of</strong> a pine needle is<br />

going to take up a big portion <strong>of</strong> the frame, you want the lens to take the small and expand it into the large. So you want to just flip the<br />

lens around.<br />

Third, once you've reversed the lens, you probably want some way to retain the automatic diaphragm. You want the aperture to remain<br />

fully open until just before your exposure and then close down to the selected shooting aperture. My old Rollei 6008 had all-electric<br />

lenses so you could do this with a clean and reliable electric contacts. Nikon has mechanically stopped-down diaphragms for backward<br />

compatibility so they can't do this; you end up with a strange dual cable release contraption. Canon EOS has all-electric lenses but in 10<br />

years they haven't figure out how to engineer a bellows or reversing ring so don't hold your breath (instead they make a kludge to adapt<br />

their ancient Canon FD macro system to the EOS).<br />

Beyond 1:1 the Lazy Way<br />

http://www.photo.net/macro/primer (6 <strong>of</strong> 8)15/11/2004 6:47:08 PM

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