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How Shift Lenses Change your Life<br />

Shift lens documentation should tell you how much they shift. Let's look at the Canon TS-E 24mm/3.5L.<br />

Like the other TS-E lenses, it shifts up to 11mm. This is the distance the lens elements move up, but that<br />

also means the image moves exactly that much on the film. Since film images are upside-down, moving<br />

the lens up moves the image down. This means... fewer parking lots and hot dog stands. And you can go<br />

back to your original vantage point and get a bigger image.<br />

How Close?<br />

How far from your target do you need to be to get the desired shot without twisting the perspective?<br />

Believe it or not, no trigonometry is needed. It depends on the height <strong>of</strong> the target above your eye level,<br />

the height <strong>of</strong> the film above the centerline (red, above), and the lens' focal length.<br />

Distance / TargetHeight = FocalLength / HeightAboveCenterline<br />

Using that, solve for anything if you know the other three. In practice, you know the focal length and<br />

height-above-centerline numbers exactly, or can dial in the height-above-centerline you need with a shift<br />

lens. Distance may be harder to estimate, and height can be tricky. With buildings, you can usually guess<br />

5 meters or 15 feet per story for commercial structures.<br />

For now, this can help you picture what shots a given shift lens lets you take. For instance, since the<br />

height-above-centerline is 12mm for a normal lens and twice that (well, 23mm) for the TS-E lenses with<br />

maximum shift... we can get twice as close to our target. Or, shoot a target twice as tall. Or use twice the<br />

focal length (say, the TS-E 45mm instead <strong>of</strong> a normal EF 24mm).<br />

Later, on a shoot, this can avoid a certain amount <strong>of</strong> trial-and-error. For instance, say you have a 24mm<br />

lens with 11mm <strong>of</strong> shift, and a four story building on a city street. You can back up to 65 feet away from<br />

your 60 foot target. The formula says 65/60 = 24/X. X is about 22mm. You know that's right at the limit<br />

<strong>of</strong> your shifting and the corners may darken somewhat. On the other hand, you not to even bother<br />

getting your 1.4x TC out unless a vertical composition would work (vertically, 65/60 = 36/X, X would<br />

be 33.3mm, and a you could get a maximum height-above-centerline <strong>of</strong> 18mm + 11mm x 1.4, or<br />

33.4mm).<br />

Drawbacks<br />

When maximum shift is employed, shift lenses (with their unnaturally wide field <strong>of</strong> view) can show<br />

some light fall<strong>of</strong>f in the corners, due to basic optical properties. In addition, even the widest filters may<br />

be visible in the corners <strong>of</strong> the shot. Smaller apertures typically fix the first problem but accentuate the<br />

second. Hopefully you have the option <strong>of</strong> backing away from your target and reducing shift slightly. If<br />

not, consider using an auxiliary filter holder instead <strong>of</strong> screw-on filters.<br />

There are not yet any auto-focus shift lenses, even the Canon TS-E lenses with the auto-focus mount.<br />

Some shift lenses are a bit more primitive, making you stop down manually before shooting. This will<br />

http://www.photo.net/photo/canon/tilt-shift (3 <strong>of</strong> 9)7/3/2005 2:24:04 AM

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