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Underwater Photography Primer<br />

As for housing an AF for underwater photos, I don't believe that is possible due to light absorption<br />

properties <strong>of</strong> water. As reds and soon the yellows are absorbed in the first 5 to 10 feet <strong>of</strong> water, the<br />

camera's aut<strong>of</strong>ocus system will have difficulty focusing on anything. Even in macro ranges, there may<br />

not be enough light getting to the sensors to properly activate the AF system. Then, if the water is turbid,<br />

the AF gets even worse. Maybe someday<br />

Please remember -- don't touch the coral, they are macroscopic organisms -- even "lightly" with your<br />

finger is like you being "lightly touched" with by with the weight <strong>of</strong> a small house.<br />

-- Michael Donis, June 30, 1999<br />

I started serious photography under water, then moved topside. It's no easier dry.<br />

The Nikonos V ended up as my main tool, with a 20mm UW Nikkor as I couldn't afford the 15mm,<br />

together with Ikelite 150 on TTL. I also used an OM2 in Ikelite housing, though less successfully and it<br />

was bulkier. The Ikelite housings are less costly than the fancy ones and work well.<br />

Aquatica seems to make nice housings for Nikon / Canon -- if I were doing it over again, this plus a<br />

Nikon F3 with the big screen sportsfinder and 20mm lens would be a top choice. Forget AF as it is all<br />

wide angle or macro anyway, plus there are complex lighting problems as noted above.<br />

All this stuff will leak if you are not super careful about O-rings, maintenance, washing in fresh H20,<br />

etc. It is expensive or impossible to fix once flooded. Count on losing stuff to occasional disaster.<br />

Being a good diver with bouyancy control is very helpful. (Consider wearing wetsuit pants so your legs<br />

don't sink.) Gently lowering the whole camera rig <strong>of</strong>f the side tethered to a line and picking it up after<br />

you enter the water is also handy, reverse the same procedure exiting the water. Just remember to haul it<br />

in after the dive ;-).<br />

-- Charles Mackay, September 11, 1999<br />

Underwater photography isn't for everyone. However, lots <strong>of</strong> people really enjoy it as a hobby, artform<br />

or pr<strong>of</strong>ession. Other's couldn't be bothered with all the equipment hassles and would rather spend their<br />

time looking at cool stuff. Nothing wrong with that, but eventually somebody asks, after a dive trip,<br />

"what did you see?" and then there is no substitute for photography. A Nik5 and 35mm lens? Many<br />

outstanding images have been created with less than that. Of course, a wide lens has lots <strong>of</strong> advantages<br />

underwater. The depth <strong>of</strong> field is really useful with a manual focus camera and getting close to the<br />

subject <strong>of</strong>ten results in better color rendition since water absorbs red light so much more quickly than the<br />

rest <strong>of</strong> the spectrum. How about a disposable camera in a housing? Nothing wrong with that. The Fuji<br />

Endeavor in an Ikelite housing is a great tool for U/W, without taking a second mortgage out on the ol'<br />

homested. A housed SLR? Nice, flexible system. Aut<strong>of</strong>ocus. A parallax-free viewfinder. All kinds <strong>of</strong><br />

lenses at a fraction <strong>of</strong> what the few available Nikonos lenses cost. Complex and bulky, but attractive<br />

http://www.photo.net/underwater/primer (12 <strong>of</strong> 23)7/3/2005 2:18:13 AM

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