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Portrait Photography<br />

If you don't have or can't create a photo studio then you'll have to concentrate on<br />

environmental portraiture. Show the subject and also his surroundings. These tend to<br />

work best if you can enlarge them to at least 11x14 inches. Otherwise, the subject's<br />

face is simply too small. Taking photos that will enlarge well is a whole art by itself.<br />

Your allies in this endeavor will be slow film, prime (rather than zoom) lenses, a<br />

tripod, and a larger-than-35mm camera format.<br />

There are two elements to a photo studio for portrait photography. One is a controlled<br />

background. You want to focus attention on your subject and avoid distracting<br />

elements in the frame. Probably the best portraits aren't taken against a gray seamless<br />

paper roll. On the other hand, you are unlikely to screw up and leave something<br />

distracting in the frame if you confine yourself to using seamless paper or other<br />

monochromatic backgrounds. You don't have to build a special room to have a<br />

controlled background. There are all kinds <strong>of</strong> clever portable backdrops and backdrop supports that you can buy<br />

or build (call 1-800-CALUMET and ask for a catalog). If you absolutely cannot control the background, the<br />

standard way to cheat is to use a long fast lens, e.g., 300/2.8. Fast telephoto lenses have very little depth <strong>of</strong> field.<br />

Your subject's eyes and nose will be sharp. Everything else that might have been distracting will be blurred into<br />

blobs <strong>of</strong> color.<br />

The second element <strong>of</strong> a portrait studio is controlled lighting. With lights on stands or hanging from the ceiling,<br />

you get to pick the angle at which light will strike your subject. With umbrellas and other diffusion equipment,<br />

you get to pick the harshness <strong>of</strong> the shadows on your subject (see my studio photography article for more detail).<br />

There are some pretty reasonable portable flash kits consisting <strong>of</strong> a couple <strong>of</strong> lights, light stands, and umbrellas.<br />

These cost $500-1000 and take 20 minutes or so to set up on location. If you don't have the money, time, or<br />

muscles to bring a light package to a project then the standard way to cheat is to park your subject next to a large<br />

window and put a white reflecting card on the other side. Make sure that you bring a tripod because you'll<br />

probably be forced to us slow shutter speeds.<br />

Lighting<br />

The most flattering light for most portraits is s<strong>of</strong>t and <strong>of</strong>f-camera. A large north-facing<br />

window works, as does the electronic equivalent, the s<strong>of</strong>tbox (light bank). The Elsa<br />

Dorfman photo <strong>of</strong> me and Alex was taken with two large light banks, one on either side<br />

<strong>of</strong> the camera. Note that there are essentially no shadows.<br />

If your subject is outdoors, an overcast day is best. If the day is sunny, make sure to use<br />

a reflector or electronic flash to fill in shadows underneath the eyes.<br />

At right: In a New York l<strong>of</strong>t, light coming from a bank <strong>of</strong> windows at left. Canon 70-<br />

200/2.8 lens on tripod. Possibly some fill-flash but I don't think so. Fuji ISO 400 color<br />

negative film.<br />

Want more? See my tutorial about photographic lighting.<br />

Lens<br />

http://www.photo.net/portraits/intro (3 <strong>of</strong> 37)7/3/2005 2:16:41 AM

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